The Hapag duo’s sinuglaw
Cover The Hapag duo’s sinuglaw

To celebrate Filipino Food Month, guests of the idyllic Palawan destination were treated to dinners prepared for them by some of the Philippine food scene’s brightest talents

Sunlight Eco-Tourism Island Resort (SETIR) collaborated with chef, cookbook author, and lifestyle columnist Angelo Comsti to celebrate Filipino Food Month by organising a three-night culinary event called “Gastronomic Wonders,” showcasing exactly how exciting Filipino cuisine is and how far we have gone in pushing the boundaries of our food. Choosing to hold this in beautiful yet relatively far-flung Culion, Palawan was not accidental: “The pandemic has made it somewhat essential to provide a memorable dining experience to make people’s trips worthwhile and so I thought hosting dinners by the beach would do just that. And SETIR, with its prime location and picturesque surroundings, makes for a great setting,” says Comsti.

His chosen collaborators, too, were picked with careful intention. “I wanted young chefs who creatively played with Filipino cuisine,” explains Comsti. “I have tried all their food and know them well enough that they can deliver what I was looking for. They proved me right.”

The travellers that took advantage of the three-nights, four-days “Gastronomic Wonders” package can enjoy one dinner of their choosing from the three in-store. Or, for a fee, they can attend all. Frankly, it must have been very difficult to pick one considering that all three participating establishments are currently buzzing.

See also: Filipino Food—How Can We Go Further? Margarita Forés, Chele Gonzàlez, And More Speak Out

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Photo 1 of 2 Don Baldosano’s adobong dagat
Photo 2 of 2 Don Baldosano’s menu

Take chef Don Patrick Baldosano’s Linamnam MNL, which is the 23-year-old’s private dining venue within his family home in Parañaque where he serves what he calls “progressive Filipino food.” Baldosano explores the far reaches of the country seeking ingredients that have yet to be discovered. He shares how he tastes everything he forages, first conducting allergy tests on different parts of his body, after which he finally tastes them when deemed safe enough for consumption. He has had plenty of “eureka” moments, and also some occasions when he ended up with a bad stomach. All this he happily endures for the love of Filipino food and cooking.

For his five-course dinne, Baldosano wanted to showcase the philosophy and flavour profiles that they usually present in Linamnam MNL. “I also tried to feature one thing that we do,” he continues, “which is to present different produce from different parts of the Philippines. We started with tapsilog which featured Inuma rice from Sagdanga in Mt Province and smoked lamayo tea from Palawan. We also had sinigang, which shows the diversity of our cuisine by using souring agents from different regions like pingol bato from Subic and alibambang from Pampanga.”

See also: Meet Don Baldosano, the 23-Year-Old Chef Behind Modern Filipino Restaurant 'Linamnam'

The second night featured the culinary stylings of Bamba Bistro’s chef and owner Tina Legarda. Her Parañaque restaurant displays her flair for rich, flavorful comfort food, which is probably why it did not take much effort to come up with her version of what she calls “inventive beach food.” Her already sun-kissed skin proves that she has always been a fan of “spending hours at the beach and the meals that come afterwards.”

Legarda’s menu was able to showcase some of the distinct flavours of Palawan, such as their seafood, cashew, and honey, as well as other local ingredients both familiar and obscure. Aside from that, Legarda adds, “I wanted to make a menu that could subtly match the calmness and beauty of our country’s islands.” She achieved this with a duck adobo canapé paired with a spanakopita of laing (gabi leaves stewed in coconut milk) and smoked milkfish; braised noodles with pesto and an abundance of seafood like grilled alumahan, prawns, mussels, and clams. It would be a disservice to the diners to not have served a version of Bamba’s famous Tindahan ni Maria salad, which features the amazing balance of flavours and textures of pechay Tagalog, longganisa, guava vinaigrette, pinakurat cream, nuts, and more. The pechay, which is truly the heart and soul of that salad, had to be flown in that day when Legarda could not find them in the market in Coron.

See also: Nostalgic Recipes With Chef Tina Legarda of Bamba Bistro: Pollo con Mantequilla

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Photo 1 of 3 Tina Legarda’s ensalada
Photo 2 of 3 Tina Legarda’s pork belly
Photo 3 of 3 Tina Legarda’s menu

The event closed with a spark of brilliance from the men of Hapag—chefs Thirdy Dolatre and Kevin Navoa—who gave guests a sampling of the modern Filipino cuisine that is keeping their Katipunan Avenue restaurant packed. Known for their partiality towards fermented food and infusions, as well as their surprising methods in utilising local ingredients, the logistical nightmare that comes with cooking outdoors and in an unfamiliar kitchen proved to be of little consequence.

Each dish that Dolatre and Navoa served sits comfortably with the food they offer in their restaurant. Just as I thought I have picked a favourite, the one that followed was just as impressive or even more so. Dinner opened with a sinuglaw utilising local tanigue and a mellow scallion oil, quickly followed by their sweet and custardy version of suam na mais. The grilled prawn blanketed with a miso beurre blanc was aromatic with tropical fruits. The duo made sure that guests were rolling back to their rooms (as any respectable Filipino meal should) with a full cup of lamayo (cured fish) fried rice to accompany a slow-braised beef pares flavoured with a kalkag XO sauce. The childhood friends finished strong with a shockingly beyond edible creme brûlée of latô—sea grapes harvested from within the property—topped with Davao pomelo, honeycomb, and kaffir oil.

See also: Why You Should (Finally) Go To Hapag

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Photo 1 of 2 The Hapag duo’s latô creme brûlée
Photo 2 of 2 The menu by Hapag chefs Thirdy Dolatre and Kevin Navoa

As fate would have it, this year’s Filipino Food Month fell right in the middle of summer, when pandemic numbers are dwindling and both foreign and local travellers can roam freely. While we were never deprived of good eats—even under lockdown when local entrepreneurs and restaurants were delivering to our doorsteps—Filipinos are highly social beings and enjoy eating most when food is shared with loved ones. Many of us have memories of picnics on grassy knolls or sunny beaches, simply because nothing quite fires up the appetite like fresh provincial air. The success of Gastronomic Wonders at SETIR, as well as the “revenge travel” taking place all over the country, shows how coming together—or salo-salo, as we like to call it—is as much a part of our cuisine as the unique regional dishes that colour it with their stories and diversity.

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