Two years after opening their inspired modern Filipino concept, chefs John Kevin Navoa and Thirdy Dolatre admit to newfound maturity and culinary discoveries that they eagerly applied to their new menu
It is always a tough task to write about a restaurant like Hapag. Yes, it is easy to say that the food was good— it truly was. Braving the trek down EDSA Northbound and navigating the side streets of Project 4, Quezon City is a testament to the allure of the thought-provoking Filipino cuisine coming out of their open kitchen. Even before they were counted among Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant’s Essence of Asia Collection for "preserving culinary traditions, honouring authentic flavours, and providing a vital link to their communities,” a pilgrimage to Hapag has always been part of my culinary to-do list. Clearly, I arrived at the restaurant ready to love it, and I left that evening convinced and impressed. But, why?
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What makes it so difficult is that the experience was so complex and multi-sensorial that I would not know where to begin. Hapag has been open for more than two years, so this is not an introduction. In fact, so much has changed since co-owners and chefs John Kevin Navoa, Thirdy Dolatre, and Kevin Villarica started serving their food that they then described as “Filipino food in its highest and purest form.” Most noticeable is that they are currently down by one man—Navoa and Dolatre are leading the team as Villarica focuses on his growing family.
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