Family-style eating Askar Abayev / Pexels
Cover Photo: Askar Abayev / Pexels

While tasting menus are all the rage, there is something about serving platters of food in the centre of a table and coming together for a meal

Growing up in a tight-knit family—and with a large extended family from both sides—eating together was an activity that I took for granted because it was always just there. Whether it was having dinner at home on a weekday or celebrating a milestone spinning around a Lazy Susan under the spell of a Cantonese feast, family-style eating was something we all did regularly. Until, we could not.

The pandemic showed us what life would be like without Sunday get-togethers at my mom’s where lunch seamlessly flowed into dinnertime as we just kept eating until all the food was gone, and then we would have more delivered. It gave us a glimpse into a world where people ate individually-portioned meals from boxes and celebrated through online parties, toasting each other through little squares on a screen with bottled Negronis, reminding one another to “stay safe.” That feels like a long time ago, especially now that we are once again able to gather and enjoy each other’s company without restrictions and limitations.

Catch it while you can: Dining Around the City: BGC—See the 14 exclusive menus here, available until June 11 only

Tatler Asia
Family-style eating Daniel Frese / Pexels
Above Photo: Daniel Frese / Pexels

Perhaps, it was during these times of isolation we realised that sharing a meal with loved ones—or even strangers—is one of the simplest and most indispensable pleasures in life. In 2022, communal dining was one of the rising trends globally in the restaurant industry as reported by Timeout.com. As to why it works, their explanation is simple: “A communal table, whatever the size, format or material, inevitably introduces people to one another. Even—and this is the best part—when they don’t want to.”

See also: Life of the party: What does it take to host a banquet?

Tatler Asia
Family-style eating Mōdan nabe rice wagyu unagi tsukeono renkon edamame
Above Mōdan’s nabe from its freshman menu, Ode: rice, Wagyu, unagi, tsukemono, renkon, edamame

Tatler Dining’s Rising Star Chef 2023 Jorge Mendez adheres to this in his Best New Restaurant, Mōdan, where he invites twelve guests to share space in one long table. Having dined there twice, I can attest to it being an effective exercise in human connection. Both times, I believe to have left making some new friends. Also, while Mendez serves a tasting menu of his progressive Japanese cuisine, the last savoury course (for both his debut and sophomore menus) is typically a nabe— a claypot rice dish topped with unagi and wagyu in the first menu, and a more seafood-centric one for the second. “Family style dining is unique in such that it invites interaction,” Mendez confirms. “We love seeing people engage each other during our nabe.”

In case you missed it: Mōdan presents its second menu: Origami

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Photo 1 of 2 Alegria MNL’s taco course from their sophomore menu, now available
Photo 2 of 2 Alegria MNL’s taco course uses different proteins every day, based on availability

In chef Charles Montañez’s Alegria MNL in BGC, he is making waves with his transcultural cuisine fusing Latin and Filipino flavours in his wild, whimsical style. Amidst the backdrop of his Dali-esque dining room with walls covered in modern art and ceilings adorned with giant shimmery bluebells, he showcases a tasting menu that is a very generous and heavy-handed 16 courses. In the midst of this, what is notably present is a taco dish meant to be shared by the table—a heaping serving of protein (we had chicken barbacoa), freshly made tortillas, and accoutrements to play around with. Montañez explains that a family-style dish encourages bonding and exudes abundance. “I think it’s because it is more interactive than getting your own plate which is a standard in tasting menus,” he gathers. “Another thing about family-style dining is that guests see it as value for money. Seeing a table full of food is always enticing.”

Read more: Tatler’s Ultimate Guide: Where order the best lechon in Metro Manila

Tatler Asia
Family-style eating Hapag Salu-Salo (Inihaw na Baboy, Inadobong Pugita, Binusog na Manok
Above Hapag MNL’s salu-salo course: inihaw na baboy, inadobong pugita, and binusog na manok

Eating family style is ingrained deeply in Filipino culture, which is why progressive Filipino dining concept Hapag MNL has been doing their “salo-salo” main course in their degustation for years. Most Asian concepts have been serving family style since forever—such as Chinese lauriats and Korean barbecue with their endless stream of banchan—and so this really is not groundbreaking stuff. However, when tasting menus start integrating dishes into their repertoire that encourage sharing and interaction among their guests, there is definitely something more to it than just traditional eating habits.

What we realised, after all, is that humans are not built for social distancing. Mendez echos this and explains how it has strongly influenced his serving style. “It was always about work for me,” he reminisces. “Then the pandemic happened and it showed me that family is a lot more important. The nabe feels like home to me which is why I make it.” Sitting down for a meal is the most natural way to form connections—to be able to share our life and experiences with each other, aside from the abundant food that is meant not only to nourish but also to act as a conduit. Sharing platters of food as a family or a community is an age-old ritual meant to strengthen ties or even to repair broken ones. When people break bread together, it signals a momentary time of peace, and even just for that instant, we belong to each other.

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