Cover Shaun Ng of Hide KL (Photo: Hide KL)
Shaun Ng of Hide KL (Photo: Hide KL)
1 / 1
Hide KL is Tatler Dining's 2023 Restaurant of the Year
As the father of a five-month-old baby, the exhaustion on Shaun Ng’s face is understandable as he enters through the doorways of Hide KL. It is late afternoon on a Friday, and the team is busy preparing for dinner service. Despite the tasks to be done and his lack of rest, Ng is as cheery and good-natured as ever.
“With 10 to 14-hour working days, and the need to be in the kitchen six out of seven days a week, there is definitely a lot of sacrifice required,” he admits, referring to the lack of time he is able to be home with his wife and son. “However, it makes me especially grateful for my supportive and understanding wife, who takes over most tasks when I’m at work,” he smiles.
The 31-year-old is married to Gigi Leow, who is the co-owner of Here & Now, a tropical cocktail bar on the top floor of The Five @ KPD. “When I’m able to be at home, I definitely spend all my time with family.”
Read more: Keith Hooker on navigating Kuala Lumpur’s rich culinary landscape
While Ng originally pursued a career in law, his passion for gastronomy grew while experimenting as a home cook, to the extent that he changed career paths. "I fell in love with cooking while studying law," the chef reminisces. "I would dread my readings each day, finding comfort and pleasure in creating meals for myself, as I found it peaceful."
As much as the passionate chef knew his calling, his family was not immediately on board. "It was probably one of the lowest points in my life and I felt completely alone, but this also gave me the drive I needed, as I knew failure wasn't an option," he says.
He moved universities to the Culinary Institute of America in New York, before cutting his chops at Le Bernardin, a three-Michelin-star restaurant renowned for its seafood. “Here, I really honed my skills working within a kitchen brigade, deepening my understanding of running a kitchen smoothly,” Ng explains.
However, it is one-Michelin-star contemporary Taiwanese restaurant Kato in Los Angeles that Ng attributes the majority of his growth as a chef to. “When I moved to Kato, we were a four-man-team, including the front and back of house staff—it was an incredibly steep learning curve that I gained so much from,” he muses.
See also: Father's Day 2023: Drink to dads
Moving back to Kuala Lumpur, Ng brought with him a wealth of experience from his time abroad. The 13-seater Hide KL was soon born, hidden fittingly behind a floral painting at the Ritz Carlton Residences.
Rather than drawing inspiration from the cuisine at his previous workplaces, or solely from his roots, he instead chooses not to limit his team. “At Hide KL, I gain inspiration from all around the world—the lack of a menu constrained by certain ingredients allows us to focus on good flavours,” he explains.
One might think this may result in a lack of cohesion, but the opposite is true. During my first meal at the restaurant, one of the most memorable dishes was the dadinho, a fried Brazilian appetiser typically made with tapioca and cheese, that Ng elevates with the addition of uni and shaved truffle.
While the rest of the menu had strong Japanese or Chinese influences, from a smoked trout tartlet to a delicately spiced egg custard with lobster, the menu was harmonious, with a clear progression of flavours.
The same cohesiveness can be seen within the current menu, from which Ng takes inspiration from more of his Chinese roots. From a dish of mud crab with black vinegar to dry-aged duck made with a mirepoix where shallots and spring onions replace celery and onions, each creation served is tastefully executed, presented by the chef in charge of the dish. “I feel this breaks down barriers between the chef and the customer—plus, who else could explain the dish better than the individual who cooked it?” Ng quips.
However, a well-thought out menu does not come easy, and Ng acknowledges how much effort goes into curating such an experience: “We really put a lot of time and effort into research and development, from travelling to restaurants for new inspiration to testing ideas."
Don't miss: In the Mood for Food 2023: All the dishes to expect at the festival
While Ng is clearly filled with passion when it comes to his craft (he tells me he often finds himself daydreaming of new dishes and techniques to try) he admits the lack of a work life balance is an issue, which ultimately deters staff from the line of work.
“Sourcing for individuals willing to put in the hours is probably my biggest challenge. Furthermore, many young, passionate chefs would prefer to work overseas, where they can command better pay," he admits. Having said that, Ng hopes to provide a nurturing environment for his young team at the restaurant.
“I hope that Hide KL is a place where my staff aren’t afraid to make mistakes, learn, and grow—my dream for them is definitely to leave a better chef than when they first enter through the restaurant doors.”
His advice to younger chefs would be to put heart and soul into all operations: "focus on mastering your craft. Your only competition is yourself, so always strive to be better than you were yesterday."
NOW READ
Why Gooddam’s Daniel Yap is a big fan of regional Italian cuisine
Father’s Day 2023: Gift guide for foodie dads
The best cafés in the Klang Valley, according to our readers
Credits
Photography: Hide KL
About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
