Cover Keith Hooker, executive chef at The Brasserie (Photo: The St. Regis Kuala Lumpur)
Keith Hooker, executive chef at The Brasserie (Photo: The St. Regis Kuala Lumpur)
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The St. Regis Kuala Lumpur’s executive chef on the Chinese concept of face, moving to Asia, and his British roots
Born and bred in Cambridge, moving to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, was not always on the cards for Keith Hooker, who took on the role of executive chef at The St. Regis Kuala Lumpur in March 2021. However, as we chat in The Brasserie, located on the second floor of The St. Regis Kuala Lumpur, I learn he has been with the hotel for over a year, overseeing operations at dining establishments which include The Drawing Room, Crystal, and The Astor Bar, and has no plans to leave. “The beauty of Malaysia is the genuine interest people have in food—everything revolves around it from casual conversations to weekend plans," chuckles Hooker.
The amicable chef found a love for the culinary arts during Home Economics classes in high school, deciding to swap books for knives at the age of 16. After working in Cambridge for a few years, Hooker cut his chops with renowned British chefs around London including Michel Roux Jr., Marcus Wareing, and Jason Atherton. “Cooking came naturally to me, and I’ve been working ever since, which is just over 20 years now,” he enthuses.
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Above Keith Hooker was born and bred in Cambridge
Keith Hooker was born and bred in Cambridge
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In 2016, the opportunity arose to work in Hong Kong at The Social Company, one of Atherton’s restaurants, resulting in Hooker leaving the United Kingdom. “The whole time, my wife was encouraging me to join Marriott, so when it came to the end of my contract with Atherton, I joined the JW Marriott Hotel in Hong Kong for 18 months,” he recalls. However, the pandemic soon struck, resulting in Hong Kong entering a strict lockdown. “The country was like a prison at the time, so when I got a call about the opportunity in Malaysia, it was a no-brainer,” he says.
Having experienced the country’s rich culinary landscape for the past two years, Hooker is confident about the future. “I think Malaysia's dining scene is going to flourish over the next ten years,” he enthuses. “We have the luxury of Chinese, Indian, and Malay influences, not to mention we are surrounded by culinary hubs such as Thailand and Singapore.”
Above The Brasserie is known for modern European fare
The Brasserie is known for modern European fare
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While Hooker is now settled in Malaysia (he has just welcomed a 7 month old daughter), adjusting to Asian cultural norms has been the chef’s biggest challenge in his career. “In England, we don’t have the concept of face—telling a chef off and being harsh is common in the kitchen,” he explains.
However, upon moving to Hong Kong, Hooker soon realised the way he managed staff had to change. “Direct criticism is not culturally acceptable here, and I soon learned a different, better way of teaching and coaching."
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Above A dish of Wagyu beef, stuffed onion, maitake mushrooms, and kimchi
A dish of Wagyu beef, stuffed onion, maitake mushrooms, and kimchi
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Looking around The Brasserie as staff buzz around preparing for lunch service, Hooker beams with pride. While the restaurant boasts modern European fare, including vegan and vegetarian tasting menus, local ingredients are embraced where possible.
A dish on the menu that Hooker has developed and elevated throughout his career is the classic British dish of beef with mushrooms, onions, and cabbages. “British food typically consists of a protein and vegetables,” Hooker begins. “Here, we have a tenderloin of Wagyu beef, onion stuffed with braised ox cheek, Japanese maitake mushrooms that are chargrilled, and homemade kimchi for the cabbage element that is served two ways—the leaf is chargrilled and kimchi is also puréed.”
While the dish is, at its core, beef with the aforementioned vegetables, each element is elevated and well-thought out. “I always like to have two cuts of meat on a plate, in this case the juicy tenderloin and the unctuous, rich braised ox cheek,” he adds.
Hooker believes this reincarnation is his finest yet, due to the addition of acidic kimchi. “This version is true to my British roots, while incorporating Asian ingredients through maitake mushrooms and kimchi,” he says.
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Above Keith Hooker places the finishing touches on a dish
Keith Hooker places the finishing touches on a dish
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Hooker is proud of his team’s versatility, as the chefs in the kitchen not only cook for The Brasserie, but also the banquet hall and room service.
“Someone can go from pan frying a Dover sole to making char kuay teow and sending it to a room, which makes us an incredibly strong and cohesive team,” he beams. “My belief is to always promote internally, for chefs de partie to become sous chefs, for the team to climb the ranks and lead the kitchen in the future.”
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Photography: The St. Regis Kuala Lumpur
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About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
