Subsequently, Yap travelled around Italy, learning about the cuisine in neighbouring regions from Lombardy to Tuscany, which would later work to inspire Gooddam's menus. Before returning to Kuala Lumpur, Yap also worked at Studio, a one-Michelin-star modern Nordic restaurant in Copenhagen, Denmark.

While Italian chefs’ nonnas are often cited as a their first memory of food, the same can be said for Yap—he learned to make Hokkien and Nyonya food from his maternal grandmother, while his paternal grandmother was an expert in Hakka fare.

Upon returning to Kuala Lumpur, it was only a matter of time before he reconnected with Lie, launching Pop Up Dining, a private dining concept. “We explored different cuisines and dining experiences, from casual brunch events to complex tasting menus,” Yap recalls. After three years, they decided it was the right time to open a restaurant. “I wanted to prove that a Malaysian team could run an Italian restaurant, and even dive into regional cuisine,” he says. “Since I studied in Italy for a year, it was food I was comfortable with.”

When Gooddam opened four years ago, the menu was based solely around the region of Piedmont in northern Italy. “It is more common to find Italian restaurants in Malaysia serving food like pizza and pasta from Naples in southern Italy,” he explains. Yap and Lie wanted to showcase the large regional differences in Italian cuisine, especially between the north and south. 

A dish that spurred Yap's love for Piedmont cuisine is Tajarin pasta, which he typically makes during festive seasons towards the end of the year. “The pasta is only made with flour and egg yolks,” he enthuses. “It is difficult to make as it cannot be kneaded too much.” He typically pairs the rich pasta with a light sauce of butter, sage, or hazelnuts. 

During the lockdown, however, Yap decided to step out of his comfort zone and focus on creating seasonal set menus, each based around three regions in Italy. “My team and I would do our own research about the regions, share what we learned, then develop a menu,” he recalls. “We would draw inspiration not just from the food, but also from the architecture, eating habits, people, and culture.” 

From the beginning of 2023, the team decided to hone in on one specific region every season. “The last menu, which ran from January to April, was based around Emilia-Romagna, where I studied,” he enthuses. Dishes served during this menu included a nutmeg ricotta ravioli with roasted tomato broth. “We made ravioli in five shapes that came from the region and served them with pickled pumpkin.”

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Gooddam’s current menu is inspired by Lombardy, a region in northern Italy. The menu begins with a series of four light bites, including one inspired by a dish of osso buco from Lombardy, typically served with polenta.

“We braise veal cheek and shred it up, serving it on grilled polenta with a gremolata made with kaffir lime leaf,” Yap explains. Tender and supple, the veal cheek melts in the mouth, and the fragrant kick from the kaffir lime leaf is welcome.

While dishes are Italian, Yap isn’t afraid to use Asian ingredients or support local producers. For instance, the last snack is a small, crisp cigar stuffed with liver mousse and Semai chocolate caramel courtesy of local chocolatier Chocolate Concierge. 

Flavours throughout the menu are robust, reflecting Yap’s explanation about the strong use of natural fat, butter, and rich flavours present throughout northern Italy.

While regional ingredients can sometimes prove difficult to source, the team at Gooddam tries to make everything they can in house, which also keeps prices down. “Guanciale is expensive, so we make our own by ordering local pork jowl, curing it with juniper berries, salt, and pepper, then ageing it.”

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In the future, Yap hopes to expand into catering and events, while delving into more Italian regions through seasonal menus. “Through more focused menus, guests can experience what each region in Italy has to offer,” Yap finishes.

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