Pizza Duo Bamboo Hills
Cover Pizza Duo in Bamboo Hills is home to the largest Stefano Ferrera oven in Malaysia (Photo: Pizza Duo)

A passion for pizza is what drives husband-and-wife duo Aina Ghani and Mark Lee

Opened just six months ago, the line for Pizza Duo’s contemporary Neapolitan pizzas usually stretches out its doors, especially on busy weekends. One of three tenants at Bamboo Hills’ Tap Room (the other two being cocktail bar Tap Tap and local brewery Paper Kite), Pizza Duo’s humble origins lie in a young couple's love for all things pizza. 

I sit with Aina Ghani and Mark Lee, the founders of Pizza Duo, at one of the wooden tables that dot the airy, bright interior of Tap Room. “I’ve always loved pizza,” Aina laughs. “We both have!” Bubbly and enthusiastic, Aina's demeanour complements her husband's calm disposition. 

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Pizza Duo Bamboo Hills
Above Pizza Duo prides itself on contemporary Neapolitan pizza

While it is hard to find someone that does not enjoy a good slice of pizza, Aina and Lee take their love for the comfort food to another level. For one of her birthdays, Lee surprised Aina with a pizza road trip to Piedmont, where he organised to eat at pizzerias around the region rated 90 and above on the Gambero Rosso list. For those less familiar, the list is Italy's equivalent to the Michelin Guide, where restaurants are given a score out of 100 (there are less than 50 pizzerias rated 90 and above in Italy). 

“We’d stop at all these pizzerias—some traditionally Neapolitan, some contemporary, and really dive into the craft just to see what a pizza could really be,” Lee reminisces, smiling. Such pizza road trips were common for the couple.

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Pizza Duo Bamboo Hills
Above The Shroomami is one of Pizza Duo's bestselling pizzas

“We’ve always loved eating pizza, but during the MCO, we started experimenting with making our own,” Aina explains. Soon, the couple realised the craft required much more skill and patience than anticipated. “The process was incredibly technical—there were lots of steps involved and factors to consider, from climate to humidity.” 

The couple persisted, and soon began experimenting with different toppings. “We were inviting friends over for pizza tasting menus, where we would serve 10 different pizzas,” Lee enthuses. “At the time, we were just having fun and sharing our love for pizza.”

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Pizza Duo Bamboo Hills
Above Neapolitan pizzas are sparsely topped compared to their American counterpart, as they only bake in the oven for 70 to 90 seconds at high heat

An opportunity soon arose to operate the pizza section of Tap Room. With upscaling on the cards, the decision was made to go on another pizza road trip, but this time with a purpose beyond pleasure.

“We were in Naples for a month doing research, sampling different pizzerias, and gaining inspiration—we consumed over 20 pizzas in a span of 10 days,” Lee laughs. Aina and Lee also honed their skills with an Italian pizzaiolo (a chef specialising in authentic pizza) based in London, which further allowed them to understand the technicalities of pizza making. 

Though armed with new knowledge, there were still challenges to come. “Running a pizza business is completely different from making pizza at home,” Aina says. She recalls how the country’s humid climate made working with dough difficult. “It took us a good six weeks to develop a dough that was able to be scaled commercially."

Another issue had to do with pizzas being sold at different times of fermentation. “In Italy, pizzerias close from 3pm to 6pm, as it is easier to manage dough, but Tap Room is open throughout the day.”

While traditionally, Neapolitan pizza making does not allow for refrigeration, the team had to adapt with a cold room where dough is stored in a temperature-controlled environment. “Our dough is made three days in advance, as long fermentation allows flavour to develop,” Lee adds. 

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Pizza Duo Bamboo Hills
Above Working with high hydration dough in a humid climate is not an easy feat
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Pizza Duo Bamboo Hills
Above The dough is made three days in advance and kept in a chiller

Upon opening, the couple soon realised another hurdle came with customer expectations. “Most Malaysians are familiar with the New York-style pizza, which comes loaded with toppings and has a solid crust,” Lee says. “Neapolitan pizzas are floppy and soft, with a high crust that has dark spots, topped with sparse but high-quality toppings.” 

As a result, customers often ask for more toppings but this results in an overloaded crust since Neapolitan-style pizzas only bake for 70-90 seconds in an incredibly hot oven. “In Italy, only 80-100g of cheese are used—here, we definitely have to use more,” Lee explains. Neapolitan pizzas are also typically served without being sliced but the pair tells me, laughingly, that this resulted in pizzas being sent back.

While Pizza Duo may use more cheese than in Italy and slice its pizzas, certain things are non-negotiable, for instance, ingredients. “The best ingredients make the best pizzas,” Aina says, firmly. “Our fior di latte (fresh cheese) is from Naples, our San Marzano tomatoes are from the Campania region, and we only use Italian flour.”

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Pizza Duo Bamboo Hills
Above Only San Marzano tomatoes are used at Pizza Duo

When it comes to what sits atop the dough, the team gets a little more experimental. “We take the essence of Neapolitan pizzas and inject fun into them with toppings,” Aina enthuses. On Pizza Duo’s menu are 16 different pizzas—while eight are classics (think Margherita, Formaggi, and Pepperoni), the other eight push boundaries with creative combinations. 

The Carb on Carb, for instance, is the duo’s take on the idea of a burger on a pizza—the fluffy base is topped with slices of potatoes, Angus beef sausage, caramelised onions, and gorgonzola cheese.

Aina's personal favourite comes in the form of the Garden State, and her eyes light up as she describes the zucchini, dill, zucchini flowers, and smoked Provola cheese that adorn the pizza.

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Pizza Duo Bamboo Hills
Above The Vegeta, one of the vegetarian options at Pizza Duo

The next pizza they describe is the OD, a spin on the controversial Hawaiian pizza. “Italians might cringe but we try not to take ourselves too seriously,” laughs Lee. Instead of fresh pineapples, pineapple jam is used, a recipe from Aina's grandmother. 

The Shroomami, Pizza Duo’s bestseller, is topped with truffle salsa, ricotta, and truffle oil. “Malaysians love anything mushroom and truffle,” Aina quips. Also worth mentioning for sheer creativity is CLOY (which stands for the popular Korean drama Crash Landing on You), a Korean-inspired pizza with bulgogi short rib and a kimchi base. 

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Pizza Duo Bamboo Hills
Above The Krapow, a pizza topped with Thai basil chicken, a fried egg and crispy Thai basil

All pizzas are made in a sleek Stefano Ferrara oven, immediately visible from Tap Room’s storefront. A third generation oven maker, Stefano Ferrara is the most in-demand Neapolitan pizza oven maker in the world—Aina tells me stories of restaurateurs breaking down storefronts to bring in one of his famous ovens.

“During our trip to Naples, we took a 45 minute trip to Pozzuoli, where his factory is based,” she recalls. “Our oven was already in the works—the idea was for a copper-clad oven to match the beer tanks in Tap Room, and we had placed the order via email.” A copper artisan was hired to knock the cladding into shape, working with Ferrara to make the vision a reality. 

Currently the largest Stefano Ferrara oven in Malaysia, it had to be brought through the roof with a crane. Aina pulls up a video of the nail-biting process; the 3,500kg oven was lifted overhead and manoeuvred with a forklift. “That was one of the most terrifying moments of my life,” she laughs.

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Pizza Duo Bamboo Hills
Above Pizza Duo is home to the largest Stefano Ferrara oven in Malaysia

In the near future, the team hopes to introduce more experimental pizza flavours through what they will call the Duomakase, a pizza omakase experience. “We’ll be serving premium pizzas off menu, similar to what we did with our friends when we were making pizza at home,” Lee smiles. 

As much as the popularity of Pizza Duo speaks for itself, Lee and Aina stay focused. “Pizza making is an evolving art, and we want to keep improving and offering the best product we can,” Lee concludes.

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