On the Pass: get to know chef Carlos Garcia and his philosophy that “food should never be pretentious”

What is one Spanish ingredient you love to cook with? Why?

Olive oil. I use it for light frying, sautéing, and roasting, and I can even use it to add depth of flavour to my dishes. I use a really good extra virgin olive oil from my hometown and drizzle it over salads, soups, and vegetables. Depending on where the olive oil comes from, it can add a fruity, spicy/peppery, and sweet note. Not to mention, it is considered one of the healthiest oils on the market.

What native Filipino ingredients do you love to cook with? Why?

Although I don’t cook a lot with it, we use this special spiced vinegar that is amazing with pretty much everything. I can actually drink it straight from the bottle.

What is your favourite Filipino dish? What do you love about it?

This is easy: crispy dinuguan from Kanin Club. This is the one Filipino dish I can eat weekly and crave for. The unique combination of umami flavours, the textural contrast of crispy pork and the rich sauce, and the fact that this is a dish that is not easily made at home make it my hands-down favourite.

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How would you describe your culinary philosophy? What drives your cooking?

I believe that food does not have to be art; it should never be pretentious, but it has to be delicious. This is why many have a difficult time describing my food and style of cooking. I am very open-minded about my cooking and my dishes. I also get bored easily, so I am constantly playing around and tweaking my creations. Ultimately, my goal is for our customers to leave with a great impression of the food. If they leave happy from my restaurants, I have done my job.    

How do you think the Philippine dining scene has changed over recent years?

In the ten years that I have lived here, I have seen enormous changes in the Philippine dining scene. For one, there has been a significant rise in culinary talent: chefs that are trained abroad and in renowned kitchens. This has in turn led to the growth of fine dining restaurants that showcase innovative techniques and generally a more elevated dining experience.

There has also been an increased focus on sustainability and buying local. Many restaurants are prioritizing supporting local farmers and suppliers while trying to operate as eco-friendly as possible. Not sure which came first, but this goes hand in hand with the rise of restaurants showcasing the rich and diverse flavours of Filipino cuisine.

Read more: Chefs tell Tatler about the state of the dining industry in the Philippines

Any other Philippine chefs you look up to, or are inspired by?

I would say Jason Atherton. He doesn’t have the same number of stars or awards as the more prominent chefs like Ferran Adrià, René Redzepi, or Thomas Keller, but what I really admire him for is his business sense and entrepreneurial skill. Once a chef under Gordon Ramsay, he built his own culinary empire with restaurants all over the world. He also seems to be good at mentoring and providing growth opportunities for young, talented chefs.  

Who would you like to cook for anyone why—dead or alive?

Juan Mari Arzak. Cooking for him would be a chance to connect with an inspirational, culinary icon of Spain. Although his cooking is deeply rooted in the Basque culture and traditions, cooking for him would give me a chance to pick his brain and learn from his vast knowledge.

Who has been your biggest influence, professionally?

Throughout the years, I have had many influences in my professional career from culinary icons to chefs I have collaborated with, mentors who have guided me, and family members who supported and encouraged my journey. My inspiration comes from various sources depending on the time and place I am in. As such, I cannot name just one as the biggest.

See also: 8 Filipino condiments you have to try: banana ketchup, bagoong, buro, and more

What is the best restaurant you have ever eaten at?

Interestingly enough, it was not The Fat Duck or Noma. One of my most memorable dining experiences was at this asador that had no name as it was the house of the chef. The restaurant focused on celebrating seasonal ingredients from my hometown of Cáceres. Part of what made this dining experience amazing was that you never really know what you will get. There was no fixed menu and all ingredients used were as fresh as you can get them. 

What is your favourite food city or foodie travel destination?

London. The London food scene is incredibly diverse. You can get cuisines from all over the world, from regional Indian curries and authentic Chinese food to classic French cuisine and Italian restaurants that serve homemade pasta. London also has an impressive number of Michelin-starred restaurants. Your dining experience in London can go from vibrant street food to restaurants where chefs are pushing the gastronomic boundaries.  

What’s an ingredient you can’t live without?

Salt. One thing people who have tried my food never say is that my food is bland. I like strong flavours and salt is a flavour enhancer. Salt can intensify the natural taste of ingredients. A tiny pinch of salt is sometimes all that is needed to make a dish well-rounded and balanced.

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