Cover The Macallan’s story begins in the bodegas of Valdespino in Spain (Photo: Valdespino)
The Macallan’s story begins in the bodegas of Valdespino in Spain (Photo: Valdespino)
1 / 1
The story of The Macallan begins not in Scotland, but in the sun‑baked bodegas and vineyards of southern Spain, where a defining partnership with storied sherry producer Valdespino is quietly shaping one of the world’s most celebrated single malts
More than 20,000 casks surround us in the dimly lit, cool bodega of Valdespino, one of the oldest and most historic sherry houses in the Spanish city of Jerez de la Frontera, with roots dating back to 1264. As we—along with other select media invited by The Macallan on this four‑day sojourn to Andalusia—make our way through the cavernous cellar, Nicola Riske, regional education manager at The Macallan, leads us to a secluded corner where rows of sherry‑seasoned casks bound for The Macallan Estate in Speyside, Scotland, quietly await their next chapter.
“This best sums up the story of Valdespino and The Macallan,” Riske says, gesturing towards the casks before serving us a glass of Valdespino Vermouth Origen. Launched in October last year, the vermouth is poured over ice and garnished with a slice of orange. Made from botanical extracts and a blend of sherries, it is more than a refreshing aperitif. “The vermouth is made with the same sherry wines used to season the virgin oak casks that will eventually be used for The Macallan whiskies,” she explains.
In case you missed it: The Macallan opens first shop-in-shop at Changi Airport Terminal 3
Above Valdespino’s bodega in Jerez de la Frontera, Spain
Valdespino’s bodega in Jerez de la Frontera, Spain
1 / 1
As notes of citrus peel and gentle spice coat the palate, the connection becomes clearer: while The Macallan is synonymous with Scottish single malt whisky, part of its story begins here, more than 1,600km from Scotland, in southern Spain’s Sherry Triangle, which encompasses Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Specifically, this Spanish chapter starts at Valdespino’s Jerez vineyards, where palomino fino—the dominant grape variety on the estate—is grown and harvested to craft the sherry used for that vital cask seasoning (we are told that sherries, or fortified wines, can also be made from varieties such as moscatel and pedro ximénez). “The soil, the sun, the community, the people, this place, Jerez, it all becomes one in a cask,” The Macallan creative director Jaume Ferràs once remarked of the region.
Our exploration of the bodegas eventually leads us out to the vineyards, where we encounter the Sherry Triangle’s distinctive albariza soil, which sinks beneath our feet and crumbles effortlessly between our fingers. As Valdespino export director and global brand ambassador Ignacio López gives us a tour of the vast estate, he explains that the soil derives its characteristic off‑white hue from its high chalk and calcium carbonate content. This porous soil is ideal for growing sherry grape varieties, acting like a sponge that absorbs water during the winter rains and gradually releases moisture to sustain the vines through Andalusia’s long, dry summers. Yet, while the vineyards provide the raw canvas, it is the expertise of Valdespino’s winemakers, honed over centuries, that transforms these grapes into the fortified wines that ultimately influence the character of The Macallan’s whiskies.
Don’t miss: Acclaimed sommelier Reeze Choi debuts Project 933 with Japanese winemaker Vinoble Vineyard
Above Sherry has long been integrated in the story of The Macallan
Sherry has long been integrated in the story of The Macallan
1 / 1
It is worth noting that throughout The Macallan’s history, sherry has been at the heart of its whisky‑making process. As Anna Acuña, The Macallan’s director of cask operations and one of our hosts during the trip, explains: “Sherry seasoning is a vital process for us. Every single cask goes through it … that’s what sets us apart from other whisky brands.” It is no surprise, then, that in 2023, The Macallan’s parent company, Edrington, acquired a 50 per cent stake in Bodegas Grupo Estévez, the group that owns Valdespino and stands as one of the largest sherry producers in the Sherry Triangle, with a regional vineyard footprint of 800 hectares—ensuring a sustainable supply of sherry‑seasoned casks for generations to come. Acuña describes the partnership as a meeting of minds and a shared commitment to quality. “We bring together our seasoning expertise and their wine expertise. By investing heavily in knowledge and craftsmanship, we are ensuring that this shared heritage is preserved and celebrated,” she says.
As we make our way to the cooperage, Acuña talks about the next chapter in The Macallan’s story: oak casks. “We only use American and European oak,” she says, pointing to stacks of timber left outdoors to be seasoned by the elements before being cut into staves, further seasoned and then crafted into casks. Inside the bustling cooperage, we watch skilled coopers arrange the staves inside a hoop, spray them with water and heat them to soften the wood, then bend the staves into shape and secure them with temporary hoops before the interiors are toasted to the distillery’s exacting specifications. Only after passing rigorous quality checks are the casks seasoned with sherry wines for approximately 18 months—these same wines later find a second life in the vermouth we sampled earlier.
Read more: The Macallan taps into Cirque du Soleil for the latest Harmony Vibrant Oak expression
Above The Macallan controls every stage of the whisky-making process, from making the oak casks to distilling the spirit
The Macallan controls every stage of the whisky-making process, from making the oak casks to distilling the spirit
1 / 1
In the spirit of
Making a cask is a painstakingly long process. From the felling of trees to the crafting and seasoning of the barrel, the entire journey of creating a whisky‑ready cask can take up to five years, says Acuña. Time is also an essential ingredient in whisky‑making: the team must ensure sufficient interaction between spirit, wood and seasoning wine, all of which ultimately shape the whisky’s character. As for the different oak profiles, “American oak typically imparts sweeter notes of vanilla, caramel and coconut, while contributing a lighter hue”, she explains. “European oak brings greater spice, dried‑fruit character and tannic structure, resulting in a richer and more intense profile.” The interplay between the two oak types helps create the diverse expressions found across The Macallan portfolio.
While tradition remains at the heart of the process, Acuña emphasises that The Macallan is never complacent. “We don’t want to change just for the sake of it, but we constantly evaluate what needs to evolve and why,” she says. Wine specifications, flavour profiles and the way different wines interact with wood are continually assessed, ensuring that every cask contributes to the house style while maintaining consistency across the range.
Above The oak casks are shipped to The Macallan Estate in Scotland, where they are united with the new-make spirit
The oak casks are shipped to The Macallan Estate in Scotland, where they are united with the new-make spirit
1 / 1
When the casks are ready, they are shipped to Scotland. Watching them being loaded onto trucks before beginning their journey north, there is a sense of coming full circle as the final chapter of whisky‑making returns to The Macallan Estate in Speyside—the very place where founder Alexander Reid established the distillery on the banks of the River Spey in 1824. Suffice it to say that while the story of each bottle begins with seasoning in the bodegas of Jerez de la Frontera, it is in Speyside where spirit and cask are finally united.
At The Macallan Estate, master whisky maker Kirsteen Campbell and her team serve as custodians of the brand’s future. Here, new‑make spirit is crafted from barley, yeast and water before being distilled in The Macallan’s distinctive copper stills. Kept small to maximise contact between the vapour and copper, they retain the historic shape and proportions that help create the rich, full‑bodied character that has long defined the distillery’s spirit style. The new‑make spirit and casks are then left to mature together for years, sometimes decades, until they develop the natural colour and flavour profiles that have become hallmarks of The Macallan. As Acuńa emphasises, “no artificial colouring is added”.
Above The Macallan Sherry Oak 30 Years Old
The Macallan Sherry Oak 30 Years Old
1 / 1
Of course, the best way to understand this is to taste the whiskies themselves. The Macallan Sherry Oak 25 Years Old, for instance, displays a striking deep mahogany hue. The nose opens with aromas of dried orange peel, raisins and sultanas, while rich dried fruits, blackberries, dark chocolate and toasted almonds unfold across the palate. By contrast, The Macallan Sherry Oak 18 Years Old is lighter in colour, though no less generous in flavour. Notes of dark chocolate, ginger, dates and dried apricots give way to a long finish of vanilla sweetness, dried fruits and warming spice. Tasting these whiskies is a poignant reminder that every sip is the product of centuries of know‑how, shaped by nature, terroir and the people behind each dram—from the grape growers and winemakers of Valdespino to the whisky makers of The Macallan in Speyside.
Ferràs perhaps sums it up best: “[In every dram], The Macallan seeks to bring its heritage, character and craftsmanship to life, creating something more meaningful, memorable and unmistakably The Macallan.”
Credits
Images: The Macallan, Valdespino
Topics
Dudi Aureus is the senior dining and travel editor at Tatler Singapore, covering the city’s most exciting restaurants, global travel trends, and the personalities shaping the culinary and lifestyle scenes. She also serves as co-jury chair for the Tatler Best awards in Singapore, celebrating the very best in hospitality. When she’s off duty, she can often be found at a favourite hole-in-the-wall Thai spot, savouring a perfectly balanced pad thai.
