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In BGC’s highly-competitive dining scene, Chef Charles Montañez makes a case for his innovative spins on Filipino cuisine with a Latin-American flair
When dining in Alegria MNL, it would be best to leave one’s biases and inhibitions at the door. For one, this is not your typical temple of gastronomy—more like a playground. The bar, back-lit in blue, plays off the silvery bignonia-like ceiling ornaments giving the dining room an otherworldly glow. A friend sitting at another table hops on over to our booth to admire the artwork behind us—a Brave Singh, apparently. In fact, most of the walls are adorned with modern impressionist art that gives this Alegria (there are several in Manila, not to mention those in Singapore and Bali) its playful opulence. No, this is not one of those austere fine dining establishments with leanings toward the starkness of Scandinavian or Japanese sensibilities. The name itself means “happiness” in Spanish, and the interiors earnestly set the mood for an evening of fun and revelry.
And then, there is the food. Chef Charles Montañez, brimming over with exuberant youth, is the highly credible mastermind of this 16-course degustation of what he calls transcultural cuisine. I find him hovering over dishes being plated by two members of his team—behind them, a fire roars over a grill. To one side, gauzy flaps of ox tripe are benefitting from smoke rising from the burning wood. “That goes in the kare-kare,” Montañez shares, which is thrilling information to me. Montañez, too, is thrilled to finally be doing fine dining, not that he is unhappy about the party crowd’s appreciation for his other branches. “I knew that I had to open this one (at Uptown Parade, BGC) if I wanted to do a tasting menu,” Montañez explains. “All the other Alegrias are really known to be bars, and I am not complaining, it’s good business. But, still, it has always been my dream to cook this kind of food.”
See also: Mōdan MNL: Inside Chef Jorge Mendez’s New Japanese Private Dining Concept
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The sixteen courses, while it seems extensive enough, have already been whittled down from around twenty-plus. Proof, in fact, of the good chef’s enthusiasm to express the creativity that has long been brewing within. He expresses it through quirky yet well-executed dishes that demonstrate his deep knowledge of various Latin American cuisines—such as his opening salvo of infladita with the earthiness of smoked mushrooms, and the satisfying gooeyness of pao de quiejo flavoured with an edible fungus called huitlacoche. He gets whimsical and nostalgic with plump Aklan oysters doused in leche de tigre and Yakult, the probiotic drink from his childhood giving the dish a distinct creamy tang.
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Montañez is clearly not one to shy away from bold flavours and concepts as his predisposition to Filipino and Latin fusion becomes more apparent. His coxinha (or Brazilian croqueta) is stuffed with chicken pianggang, a dish from Southern Philippines that calls for burnt coconut giving it that distinct smokiness and colour. The Ilocos empanada is given the birria treatment wrapped in a mustasa tortilla and then dipped in consommé before getting a dab of salted egg cream. The squid-silog—a play on the popular Filipino all-day meal that consists of a protein, fried rice, and egg—utilizes a naturally black heirloom grain that is also cooked over fire, then infused with even more flavour from the squid sofrito and a stuffed baby squid hiding beneath a fringe of bonito flakes.
See also: Notable Food Regions in the Philippines (and the Dishes to Try When You Visit)
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After such a complex barrage of savoury bites, one would think that a simple palate cleanser should suffice. However, Alegria’s pastry chef Chico Orcine rose to the challenge and matched Montañez’s crazy, mano y mano. After a plate of petit fours that included, among other things, his praline interpretation of Baguio delicacy sundot-kulangot, he finishes us off reeling with a multi-sensorial, sub-zero halo-halo. Orcino drizzles liquid nitrogen milk ice cream over the elevated components of the Filipino dessert—such as macapuno mousse, langka compote, and pandan sago, among the usual suspects—closing the meal with a theatrical flourish.
See also: 12/10 is Now Open: Everything to Love About the Japanese Restaurant, Old and New
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While Alegria MNL is the fitting showcase for Montañez’s much-awaited foray into fine dining, it still keeps very much on brand with what Alegria has become known for. It is the perfect setting for a fun night on the town—their top-shelf bottles of tequila and mezcal will make sure of that. But aside from the very drinkable cocktails and vibrant decor, the timing for this kind of cuisine is impeccable. Diners are ready to go out again, eager to discover the unknown and revisit the familiar. Montañez’s maiden tasting menu is a fitting introduction to the young chef—a peek at his culinary journey, his grasp of technique, and even a glimpse of where he is possibly going. There is definitely brilliance there, and this is just the beginning.
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Jaclyn Clemente Koppe is a food and lifestyle writer, as well as a consultant to some of the country’s beloved food and beverage brands. Her passion for food and drink is only surpassed by her devotion to her family, most especially to her soulmate, Pepa the poodle.
