Chef Aaron Isip launches a refreshing private dining concept in Poblacion

Balai Palma’s frontage already sets itself apart from your typical Poblacion destinations. Unassuming yet effortlessly chic, its off-white walls, rattan twig-laden gate, and signage with brass patina exude a sophistication that is sure to pique passers-by’s curiosities. 

As you step inside, you are instantly transported into another dimension. It feels as if we are not in Metro Manila, let alone Poblacion. In fact, the entire house is inspired by a place he calls his second home, Tulum, Mexico. Neutral hues envelop diners, as the open kitchen and main dining space on the first floor (which comfortably seats six to eight people) are decorated with a range of light wood tones, cream stone walls, weaves, baskets, and copper kitchenware, plus artwork from Olivia d’Aboville.

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Chef Isip conceptualised this private dining experience to be more than just a space for haute cuisine, but the total package. Here, at Balai Palma, you can feel as if you are entertaining guests in your own home, traversing the house’s many rooms.

The second floor features a bar with a totally different aesthetic. This time, its deep blue walls and black details create a moody and sexy atmosphere, ideal for pre-dinner cocktails or after-hour tipples. Right next door, through another entryway, is a roof deck with wooden tables, white pillows, and dim lighting, where guests can enjoy al fresco dining, a pica-pica menu, and more cocktails.

Lastly, you will find Balai Palma’s theatre room on the third floor. Here, the space is surrounded by plush white and earth tone pillows, while the walls are carefully coated with sound absorbent foam to ensure the most optimum movie viewing experience.

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Photo 1 of 6 The bar
Photo 2 of 6 The bar
Photo 3 of 6 The roof deck
Photo 4 of 6 The movie room
Photo 5 of 6 The movie room
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At Balai Palma, you can make your entertaining dreams come true; do as you please and literally make yourself at home. Your special occasions can start off on the roof deck, progress to the 17-dish tasting menu in the dining room, and end at the bar for a nightcap. On the other hand, guests may enjoy starting the afternoon off with a film before indulging in the chef’s hearty menu.

The entire house is designed for diners to enjoy and is available exclusively for those who book the space for their private affairs. While the dining space may only hold six to eight, the home can be booked for up to 30 people for your parties. A single party of up to 30 can settle into Balai Palma, and enjoy its many spaces. But, they would have to indulge in the tasting menu in groups spread across the various rooms. The bar can hold 10-15, while the roof deck and main dining can seat six to eight diners each.

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Photo 1 of 4 Crispy veal sweetbreads with lemongrass
Photo 2 of 4 Crudo of Pacific sea bream with dragon fruit aguachile
Photo 3 of 4 Mantis shrimp with santol leche de tigre and cilantro
Photo 4 of 4 Crispy boneless chicken feet with smoked chicken hearts

17 dishes may sound intimidating, but fret not, for each course does not stand alone. Several are presented in groups and designed to be eaten together, so technically, the tasting menu features 10 courses. Chef Isip is a culinarian in love with the sea and all its bountiful produce. The menu at Balai Palma is all about showcasing the best of the Philippines and features almost all seafood (live and straight from Dampa market), save for two courses which incorporate meat.

The meal begins with appetisers of crispy fried veal sweetbreads with lemongrass and tomato-galangal marmalade; boneless chicken feet with smoked chicken heart and plum gastrique; fish skin chicharron and a crudo of Pacific sea bream with dragon fruit aguachile; and ends with live mantis shrimp, santol leche de tigre, cilantro and prawn tapioca crackers.

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Photo 1 of 3 King crab cold somen
Photo 2 of 3 Ube in three textures
Photo 3 of 3 Halo-halo del mar

A beautiful, vintage, delicate silver dish is then placed in the centre of the table, revealing ube in three textures. This dish features live Halaan clams with Oscietra caviar and clam emulsion.

What chef Isip calls ‘halo-halo del mar’ is a fruit de mer to awaken the senses. Tamarind shrimp sinigang shaved ice is topped with oysters paired with bone marrow relish, Hokkaido scallops, live shrimp, ikura and tamarind anchovy sauce, crab clays with calamansi aioli, and live giant clams with kamias and mangosteen ceviche.

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Tatler Asia
Above Boudin Noir soup in cuttlefish ink
Tatler Asia
Above Stone fish in smoked otoro tuna

Next come the main courses. We start with king crab cold somen tossed in an aligue-tarragon sauce and topped with Chilean uni and fried soft shell crab. Following that chef, Isip presents Boudin Noir soup in cuttlefish ink, served with kadios black beans squid, pork chicharron and sigarilyas.

A delicate dish follows– slow poached live stone fish wrapped in smoked otoro tuna paupiette, paired with blistered shishito peppers, cherry tomatoes, okra, and burnt leek fume sauce with dill.

Chef’s lechon de lobster dish is a show stopper. It arrived at the table artfully plated, showcasing a roasted live spiny lobster wrapped in Kurobuta suckling pig belly confit with sauce bearnaise, pommes frites with caviar.

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Photo 1 of 5 Lechon de Lobster
Photo 2 of 5 Lechon de Lobster
Photo 3 of 5 Lechon de Lobster
Photo 4 of 5 Baked bun pithiviers of duck breast with foie gras
Photo 5 of 5 Baked bun pithiviers of duck breast with foie gras

He even presented a beautiful baked bun pithiviers of duck breast with foie gras and duck leg adobo confit to supplement the dish.

For a sweet finish, chef Isip created three desserts: a refreshing lanzones sorbet with compressed longan in olive oil, sitting over a bed of polvoron. Next, a sweet corn ice cream with miso dulce de leche, chilled corn soup, chia seeds and corn puffs met the table. Lastly, a petit pot of dark chocolate sable, with gianduja gelato and jasmine crème signalled the end of the meal.

More from chef Aaron Isip, here:

Why private dining?

Well, this is a limited, ethereal concept until I open my restaurant in El Nido. I wanted it to be like being invited into someone's home, to see the collection, the art, created presented. It is a handicraft haven, and that even translates to the food.

I noticed that music was a big part of the evening. Every room had speakers and a curated playlist. Why is that important to you?

I love music. I think it really sets the mood. I wanted to bring that Tulum vibe everywhere in the house. The music played around there is called organica, organic house, and that's what you can hear at Balai Palma.

See also: Hossein's Persian Kebab: From Humble Eatery to Dining Institution

Tatler Asia
Above Lanzones sorbet with compressed longan in olive oil, sitting over a bed of polvoron
Tatler Asia
Above Sweet corn ice cream with miso dulce de leche, chia seeds and corn puffs (before the pouring of chilled corn soup)

Why did you want to decorate and design the place yourself?

I have always loved design. I wanted to be an architect before since my grandfather was an architect. But…I failed my exam, and tried my hand at marketing and events [instead], but realised I did not want to do that. I then left for Paris and fell in love with food. I did buying trips from Mexico to Manila. I collected over years as well, and I would get ideas from Mexico. I would apply what I learned in Tulum, here and found Filipino products and also had things made. I would tell Filipino companies to make things for me like I designed the chairs and asked local designers to produce it for me. The lamps are also handcrafted by artisans in Negros.

Why does Tulum, Mexico, inspire Balai Palma?

I have gone to Tulum every year since 2014. I love it there. This aesthetic and concept is what I want for my restaurant in El Nido. Something tropical and bohemian. I love the energy there. I love the wabi-sabi philosophy in design–wabi-sabi is Japanese in origin, but it is being used in any culture in terms of design. Minimalist and earth tones.

What times are you open, and on what days?

For now, we are open Thursday to Saturday for dinner. 7pm onwards.

Tell me about the Balai Palma name.

Well, it is on Palma street, and Balai is Illongo for house, and my mum is from Iloilo, near Sicogol Island, which is known for fish and seafood. Her love for seafood is part of the concept.

Will the menu change?

I will change the menu depending on the season. It is all about fresh produce, so it will depend on what is available.

If people have allergies and dietary restrictions how far advance should they call?

One week in advance would be best.

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