For their countless regulars, dining at 12/10 is, in many ways, a homecoming. Follow the hexagon crest illuminating the dimly-lit pathway to the door, which reveals a cosy yet well-appointed sanctum. To your left, an impressive selection of sake and wine (and likely, de Rivera there to greet you). Across, a collection of Japanese whiskies, bookended by a handful of other liquors that go into their cocktails, both classic and contemporary. Snag a stool by the bar to peer into the kitchen, or grab a table and settle into one of their comfortable nooks.

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The premiere eleven-course omakase features a handful of their timeless favourites, kicking off with a plump Aklan oyster with almond milk and lime kosho. Awakening the palate with a vibrant bite, they clue you into what lies ahead: a produce-forward degustation that reinterprets Japanese flavours. Cleverly constructed and as good as you remember it, the uni toast with chicken liver and pineapple jam sits comfortably as a menu highlight, still. 

However, it’s the new additions that have kept diners talking for days on end: a blanket of raw tuna on crunchy asparagus in a mango-wasabi sauce (best enjoyed with a spoon to shamelessly slurp every last drop); the irresistibly blush kurobuta pork with mushrooms and pear in bold dashi; and even the dessert course, an elegant rendition of black forest with tart cherry compote, vanilla ice cream, and dark chocolate in multiple textures, perfectly seasoned with flaky salt.

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But the brilliance of the 12/10 omakase cannot be reduced to a single dish: what makes it truly remarkable is the precision with which the menu progresses. Like a series of chords in emotive composition, each dish felt complete on its own but far more compelling in its established context. Take the luxurious salmon with amazu (spiced vinegar), cream, and cured egg yolk, which guided the palate from the realm of raw seafood to the succeeding section of the degustation, where heavier notes of miso, char, and spicy curry came into play. Their palate cleanser—an unassuming but rich gazpacho of kyuri (Japanese cucumber), strawberry, and tomato—was at once fruity, sweet, bright, yet teasingly umami, easing you into that plate of kurobuta. Slices of decadent wagyu, with uni-cauliflower puree and a delectable jus then served as a timely crescendo before dessert.

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From start to finish, 12/10’s unique DNA never faltered. Just as the oyster cast an ideal introduction, their concluding assortment of petit four was the perfect synthesis. Much like the dishes that preceded them, the nori and goat’s cheese, ikura tart, yuzu madeleines with rosemary cream, and that beloved shortbread bar or faux Twix are unquestionably playful, yet thoroughly considered—a showcase of their dexterity in both the novel and familiar, and marrying the two in a gastronomic harmony.

Manila, meet the new 12/10: a study in patience, precision, progression, creativity, and most importantly, having a damn good time through it all.

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