Cover Inside Osteria Daniele
Inside Osteria Daniele
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Tatler Dining gives the restaurants that shut down during the pandemic a proper farewell by tipping the hat to the legacies and memories they have left behind
Two years have flown by. The pandemic has loomed upon us for that brutally long, and the casualties of war have been pretty devastating. Many employees lost their jobs, some brands had to downscale, and worse, a good number of restaurants have waved the white flag and accepted defeat.
The industry is still frail and hurting. We definitely have lost a lot, all except for hope. If anything, the challenges of the past months have proven that the virus can render our bodies weak, but certainly not our spirits.
As we pick ourselves up from the wreck in arms, we pay respects and acknowledge our fallen brothers whose passion, creativity and contributions had made the Manila food scene exciting.
Guijo Street in Makati has become awfully quiet since modern izakaya 12/10 (2014-2020) “indefinitely signed off” October last year. Owners Thea de Rivera and Gab Bustos provided us an artful space for six years with their refined Japanese plates, equally tasteful interiors, and cocktails in line with their unique aesthetic. For now, they decided to rest and regroup in time for the promise of post-pandemic.
Lasting the same length of time is Century City Mall's upscale food court Hole in the Wall (2014-2020). They announced their closure November 2020. While some of the brands it incubated have grown to become their own chains, like Bad Bird and Scout’s Honor, the bulk of the community dining hall’s tenants have called it quits.
See also: Who Are Tatler Dining's 14 Most Resilient Restaurants for 2022?
The Nokal disco ball in Poblacion
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Before the pandemic hit, Poblacion was in its heyday, luring lots of people with its rough-around-the-edges appeal and community vibe. It has been pretty calm as of late (a stark contrast to how it was), and one of the reasons for that is the shutdown of NoKal (2017-2020). For a long while it remained closed since bars weren’t allowed to operate, but last July, it announced via social media that it won’t be resuming operations anymore.
“I miss the crowds. I miss the ambience and the culture of going out, living life and meeting new people,” says co-owner and chef Raul Forés. “Maybe more so I miss the camaraderie of the team, preparing and executing service.”
See also: Who Won Tatler Dining Guide's 8 Special Awards for 2022?
Polilya's iconic purple neon sign
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Another pandemic fatality from this Makati neighbourhood is Polilya (2017- 2020), which had been a favourite joint for local craft beer and bar chow. It was July last year when they announced their unfortunate decision over Instagram.
“Polilya is closing its doors. This was an extremely hard and sad decision for us to make. What we’ve created over the past three years is a labour of love. Throughout this time, you, our loyal customers, have become a part of the Polilya family,” the post said.
Above A dish from 12/10
A dish from 12/10
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The same month in 2020, another watering hole, this time in San Juan’s Little Baguio, shut down its operations for good. Moksha (2003-2020) opened a couple of times during the pandemic, when the protocols allowed it. Still, the cripple took its toll, forcing them to finally lay the brand, along with their beloved kebabs and meatballs, down to rest.
The youngest in the bunch is Osteria Daniele (2019-2020), which opened mid- 2019. It held much promise—a BGC spot with a high ceiling, large light-welcoming windows, and design that hinted on art deco, serving classic Italian like risotto al limone, orecchiette with sausage, cannoli, and Aperol spritz. However, the love didn’t last long as, by the end of 2020, it got replaced by the nomadic Spanish restaurant BCN. Its quick demise may not have been brought by the pandemic, still we lament for the loss.
Above The tables at 12/10
The tables at 12/10
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After six years of allowing guests to play any of their close to 100 board games stocked in their library while enjoying fare such as pastas and rice bowls, Ludo Boardgames Bar and Cafe also said farewell to both their branches (Quezon City and Makati) on September 2020.
Their social media post writes, “Ludo is shutting down its doors. We’ll be back in a new location when everything is right in the world.”
The Chocolate Kiss Café (1997-2020) had long been a favourite spot not just by campus students and faculty but also residents from Quezon City and neighbouring cities. In August last year, the restaurant housed at University of the Philippines (UP) Bahay ng Alumni served its beloved food such as the Hickory Spare Ribs and Dayap Chiffon Cake for the very last time.
Above The tables at 12/10
The tables at 12/10
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Even hotels weren’t spared by the pandemic. In May 2020, luxury hotel Marco Polo in Davao City halted its operations, while in Manila, the Shangri- La Group, in a statement released on January 20, 2021, made the “extremely difficult decision” to lay off workers and cease operations in their Makati branch due to the “increasing financial pressure on the company.”
Instantly recognised as a city landmark, the five-star Makati Shangri-La Hotel (1993-2021) became a hub for a lot of the business district’s corporate meetings, grand events, special occasions, and dining experiences, be it casual family-style buffet eating at Circles Event Cafe and Chinese fine dining specialities at Shang Palace to world-class Japanese cuisine at Inagiku and Josper grilled-steaks and sumptuous sides at Sage Bespoke Grill.
These restaurants may be gone, but they are surely not forgotten and their legacies along with our fond memories will live on.
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