Cover Watches and Wonders 2026 showcased some truly innovative timepieces that were clever and playful
Watches and Wonders 2026 showcased some truly innovative timepieces that were clever and playful
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From Patek Philippe to Ulysse Nardin, these timepieces push the limits of what the tiny movement can do at Watches and Wonders 2026
As horology’s biggest international event, Watches and Wonders revealed the year’s most innovative timepieces that will be talked about until, well, next year’s edition. At the top of the heap is Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux that found a way to measure elapsed time most subtly. Tag Heuer boldly reconstructed the chronograph movement with the Evergraph. And IWC Schaffhausen built a space watch from scratch—yes, it’s all very Project Hail Mary.
Read more: Watches and Wonders 2026: Rolex marks 100 years of the Oyster
Here are five more that we found equally intriguing.
Ulysse Nardin Super Freak
I have a confession: the Ulysse Nardin booth freaked me out a little, no thanks to a giant rotating head that greeted every visitor and passerby. Its face was modelled after Ludwig Oechslin, the watchmaker extraordinaire who invented the brand’s Freak movement, and this rather bizarre tribute soon became apparent when the Super Freak was presented in front of me.
Hailed as the most complicated time-only watch, the Super Freak builds on Oecshlin’s iconic rotating movement and makes it even more spectacular. Its pure apperance in white gold belies the complexity of the carousel calibre that reimagined the Freak’s high-tech components.
Above Ulysse Nardin Super Freak in white gold
Ulysse Nardin Super Freak in white gold
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The minute bridge is connected to two flying tourbillons in titanium, powered by the highly efficient automatic Grinder winding system. It features the world’s smallest differential composed of 65 components, and constructed in an ascending axis (as opposed to Freak S’ descending axis) so that it appears in full view to the wearer.
The differential transmits energy to a patented gimbal system that also powers a cylindrical seconds indicator on the hour bridge. Ten silicon components, including two DiamonSIL escapements, ensure sufficient magnetic resistance for optimal performance.
The light blue of the transparent dial is not just for colour. It is crafted from Nanosital, an incredibly durable polycrystalline material that offers remarkable clarity—the perfect canvas for adding white numerals coated with Super-Luminova.
Limited to 50 pieces, only five watchmakers at Ulysse Nardin’s haute horlogerie atelier in La Chaux-de-Fonds are “licensed” to assemble the watch, and each watchmaker is responsible for assembling it from start to finish.
See also: Watches and Wonders 2026: Top 6 highlights from Cartier
Patek Philippe Celestial Sunrise and Sunset Ref. 6105G-001
Patek Philippe made a strong showing at Watches and Wonders with no less than 20 new novelties, largely propelled by the 50th anniversary of the Nautilus. All that attention on its most popular model did not steal the shine away from the Celestial Sunrise and Sunset, an engineering masterpiece that features the rare sunrise and sunset indications.
Above Patek Philippe Celestial Sunrise and Sunset Ref. 6105G-001 in 18k white gold
Patek Philippe Celestial Sunrise and Sunset Ref. 6105G-001 in 18k white gold
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The Celestial Ref. 6105G-001 is the first Patek Philippe wristwatch to indicate the times of the sunrise and sunset, although they have previously appeared in its pocket watches, such as the Star Caliber 2000. Set against a star-filled dial, sunrise time is shown on the right side and sunset on the left—both indicated by the non-skeletonised baton hands. The date disc also doubles as the scales for sunrise and sunset.
A patented corrector mechanism allows for a seamless change from Winter Time to Summer Time, making it the first Patek Philippe wristwatch to offer a direct reading of sunrise and sunset throughout the year. The corrector pushers are located at 9 and 10 o’clock.
A single push of the former advances the time by one hour to change to Summer Time, while pressing the button at 10 o’clock moves the time back by one hour for Winter Time. Note that the sunrise and sunset times are observed from Geneva—or from any other city located on the same latitude in the northern hemisphere.
Read more: Does size matter? Patek Philippe Cubitus 45mm vs 40mm
The Celestial Ref. 6105G-001 is the first Patek Philippe wristwatch to offer direct reading of sunrise and sunset times throughout the year
H. Moser and Cie. Streamliner The Pump
Those of you who lived through the 1980s is certain to get nostalgic about this H. Moser & Cie. timepiece. Inspired by Reebok’s Pump sneakers, it replaces the crown with an orange button to wind the watch. Just as the shoes pump air inside for a cosier fit, the watch builds power by “pumping” the anodised aluminum button—approximately one hour of power with each push. A power reserve indicator at 8 o'clock lets you see the stored energy at a glance. It can store up to 74 hours of power, but even when fully charged, you can continue to play with the button without fear of damaging the watch.
Above H. Moser and Cie. Streamliner The Pump in white and black forged quartz fibre
H. Moser and Cie. Streamliner The Pump in white and black forged quartz fibre
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Above A pair of Reebok Pump sneakers is presented with the H. Moser & Cie. watch
A pair of Reebok Pump sneakers is presented with the H. Moser & Cie. watch
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It is powered by the HMC 103 calibre, a manual-winding movement with a Pump system that was engineered from the automatic HMC 500. This unique movement is housed in a forged quartz fibre case in black or white. A rarely seen material—if ever—to make watch cases, quartz fibre is combined with injected resin before undergoing two successive curing cycles, a process that decorates the matte surface with a unique moiré pattern. As such, no two cases are exactly alike. Each colour is limited to 250 pieces and comes with a custom pair of Reebok Pump sneakers.
Panerai Luminor 31 Giorni PAM01631
The new Luminor has stamina—a total of 31 days without the need to recharge. An extended power reserve, often lasting for days, is a signature feature of any Panerai watch, but the PAM1631 is the brand’s first to be able to run continuously for the entire month of May.
Above Panerai Luminor 31 Giorni PAM01631 in Goldtech
Panerai Luminor 31 Giorni PAM01631 in Goldtech
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The new P.2031/S manual-winding skeleton movement is supported by a system of four barrels arranged in series with a combined 3.3m of mainspring to achieve such stellar longevity. Having multiple barrels is the easy solution, but what keeps the watch running optimally is the Torque Limiter, which delivers consistent power throughout the month. It also maintains optimal tension within the mainspring, safeguarding the movement from potential damage and enhancing precision. After 31 days, the movement stops completely, a deliberate design choice to protect the mechanism and preserve long-term performance. The indefatigable beast comes in 44mm Goldtech and is limited to 200 pieces.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon À Stratosphère
The maison’s hyper Gyrotourbillon now spins on three axes, correcting the gravitational effects of 98 per cent of all possible positions. The triple-axis tourbillon also kicks off a new watch series, the Hybris Inventiva designed to spotlight a single groundbreaking complication.
Above Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon À Stratosphère in platinum
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon À Stratosphère in platinum
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A tourbillon spinning inside another tourbillon, spinning inside yet another tourbillon, giving almost zero chance for gravity to affect the precision of the watch. The manual-winding Calibre 178 is fitted with a cylindrical balance spring that beats concentrically in every position regardless of amplitude, position or power reserve. It also runs on ceramic ball bearings, minimising performance-compromising friction. The tourbillon cages rotate at three different speeds—20 seconds for the inner cage, 60 seconds for the middle cage, and 90 seconds for the outer cage. Regulated in more positions than any other 4 Hz watch, Jaeger-LeCoultre has also gone to great lengths to decorate the components with no less than 16 different techniques, from sandblasting and perlage to Côtes de Genève and diamond polishing. The result is a timepiece that is as visually striking as it is technically superior.
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Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
