Cover Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Ulysse Nardin
Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Ulysse Nardin
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Explore how Patrick Pruniaux has transformed Ulysse Nardin since 2017, reinstating its independence and expanding its legacy through groundbreaking collections like the Freak
Patrick Pruniaux has helmed Ulysse Nardin as its CEO since 2017 when it was still part of the Kering group. He acquired it when Kering put it up for sale in 2022, reinstating the brand’s independence for the first time since the ownership of the late Rolf Schnyder.
Pruniaux saw the potential in expanding Ulysse Nardin’s legacy in innovative timekeeping, particularly through the Freak collection, the no-dial, no-hand watch that fascinates watchmakers and aficionados alike. Last year, the Ulysse Nardin Freak One won the Iconic Prize at Le Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), yet another feather in the cap of its long list of accomplishments.
Read more: A closer look at the Audemars Piguet watch that won the GPHG 2023 Aguille d'Or prize
Above Patrick Pruniaux was in Kuala Lumpur recently to showcase the new Freak S Nomad (Photo: Fady Younis)
Patrick Pruniaux was in Kuala Lumpur recently to showcase the new Freak S Nomad (Photo: Fady Younis)
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What does going independent mean to you?
Independence is at the core of Ulysse Nardin. It was a family business for a long time before it became an entrepreneur business. The Ulysse Nardin message is very unique in the luxury watch industry. There is no doubt in my mind that Ulysse Nardin has a level of passion and expertise that is simply mind-blowing. We have to keep the same level of consistency and continue the work that was started many, many years ago by our predecessors, namely [Rolf] Schnyder and the Nardin family. That said, we’re quite discreet.
Is being “discreet” good or bad?
It’s not a bad thing. People who know Ulysse Nardin are those who know about watchmaking, in particular haute horlogerie. We’re less vocal but we do more, and I think that’s something very much appreciated by watch aficionados.
Is that your strategy?
Our strategy is very simple—to explain what we do, why we do what we do, and how we do it.
See also: What’s it like to go on an Arctic adventure with Panerai
Above Freak One
Freak One
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What is the main message that you wish to convey?
That Ulysse Nardin is a brand with no boundaries. There is a sense of freedom here and freedom means creativity. It means you dare to use recycled plastic to make high horology pieces. It means you dare to use silicium in a movement. It means you dare to create a watch like the Freak X.
So it’s essentially about thinking outside the box.
Yes, but doing it with a lot of credibility. We have some of the best watchmakers in all of Switzerland. Traditional watchmaking is at the core of who we are; we got our credibility early on by being one of the best manufacturers of chronometers. Then we became one of the leaders in complications, especially astronomical complications. With the Freak, we’re an inventor of contemporary watchmaking.
How do you encourage your team to keep innovating?
It’s not hard because there is so much passion and watchmaking knowledge within the team. The challenge is deciding what to do. We nurture the people who have been on our team for a long time. A good example is Ludwig Oechslin, a genius watchmaker who is part of the team that develops new movements. [Ed note: Oechslin is credited with creating the Freak.]
But everyone always delivers new ideas. We always try to bring groundbreaking ideas to the table. A good example would be the Grinder winding system that allows the Freak to be an automatic watch.
Above Freak S Nomad
Freak S Nomad
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The new Freak S Nomad features an hour disc with a guilloché pattern. Why did you decide to have this traditional element for the first time in the Freak?
We like creating contrasts. You have this very modern movement set against an artisanal craft from the past. We might be modern, but we also have a lot of respect for the past. And remember, we own an enamel factory and partially own a company that produces silicon components. We are at the crossroads of the past and the future.
What does the Freak represent?
It represents endless possibilities, whether aesthetically or technically.
Who are the clients of Ulysse Nardin?
They are confident and secure in their own tastes. They don’t buy Ulysse Nardin to get assurance. They already know who they are. And it’s not even about standing out either. You can wear a Freak and go pretty much unnoticed.
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Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
