The independent industry salon presented a remarkable selection of new timepieces
Geneva Watch Days was founded in 2020 when the pandemic forced the industry to relook at how it should navigate the new world order. The same year, Baselworld, once the world's biggest watch and jewellery fair, was rocked by the exits of major exhibitors, and eventually relegated to the history books.
So eight major players, namely Breitling, Bulgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie., MB&F, Ulysse Nardin and Urwerk, decided to get together and create an independent event that celebrates watchmaking on a platform that is “self-managed, light, flexible, and agile”.
With the support of the city of Geneva and the Chamber of Commerce, it has since grown to be an important agenda on the annual calendar of the watch industry. This year's salon is its biggest yet, with nearly 40 brands participating. As is always the case at such events (think Watches & Wonders), it provides a great opportunity to create buzz for new releases.
Read more: Only Watch 2023: The best luxury watches for charity
We already highlighted the MB&F watch in our list of notable September releases but here are six more that go straight into our wishlist.
Corum Concept Watch

Above Corum Concept Watch
What: A titanium case with two prominent ‘ears‘ frames an aventurine dial. The movement with a flying tourbillon appears suspended above it, a captivating sight complemented with a sustainable strap made from recycled textile.
Why we love it: Are we looking at a worthy successor to the iconic baguette movement?
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech

Above Girard-Perregaux
What: The 8tech refers to a groundbreaking technique using carbon parts that are then cut into octagonal shapes. These octagons are then subjected to extreme heat and pressure, before being milled and refined for the 44mm case that gives out a shimmering effect.
Why we love it: Its robust and distinctive look, yet feels super lightweight (five times lighter than steel) on the wrist.
Chronograph Monopoussoir Sylvain Pinaud x Massena Lab

Above Sylvain Pinaud x Massena Lab
What: The award-winning monopusher chronograph by Sylvain Pinaud finds a new home in this collaborative timepiece with Massena Lab that features a dial by Comblémine SA, a dial manufacturer owned by Karl Voutilainen.
Why we love it: It’s a meeting of two brilliant minds.
De Bethune DB28XP Kind of Blue

Above De Bethune DB28XP Kind of Blue
What: De Bethune's ultra-thin DB28XP gets the blue titanium treatment. Beneath the hood is a manual-winding movement with the in-house-developed balance wheel with extremely thin hairspring, which are visible at 6 o'clock on the dial.
Why we love it: The jewelled shade of blue is absolutely stunning.
See also: De Bethune CEO Pierre Jacques on elevating the watch owning experience
Czapek Place Vendôme Complicité

Above Czapek lace Vendôme Complicité Stardust
What: A rare double escapement wristwatch with the two balance wheels beating independently at 4.30 and 7.30, and a differential at 12 o'clock—all visible on the dial side.
Why we love it: The mesmerising kinetic face.
Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Marquetry

Above Ulysse Nardin
What: Silicon is not just a functional element here, it also provides a striking aesthetic. Silicon plates in varying shades of blue adorn the dial—which also features various components of the movement including the flying tourbillon—for a captivating mien.
Why we love it: The innovative use of silicon beyond its functional role.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold Automatic and Perpetual Calendar

Above Bulgari Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold Perpetual Calendar (left) and Carbon Gold Automatic
What: Bulgari’s record-breaking slim watches—the Octo Finissimo Automatic and Perpetual Calendar—have been given a new coat in carbon gold, a combination of high-tech anthracite carbon accented with the luxurious sheen of gold.
Why we love it: Ultra-thin watches have never looked more scrumptious.
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