Cover Watches are tested for waterproofness in a hyperbaric tank (Photo: Rolex)
Watches are tested for waterproofness in a hyperbaric tank (Photo: Rolex)
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Discover how the Swiss brand continues to dominate in the psyche of watch collectors, budding and beyond
Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, wanted to be more than a pioneer in the realm of wristwatches; he was determined to revolutionise them. In the early 20th century, pocket watches were still the norm while wristwatches were perceived as fancy jewellery—if you didn’t know, the first wristwatch was made for a woman.
But Wilsdorf was a man with a vision, and he was sure that if the wristwatch came with robust characteristics, the idea of wearing a timepiece on one’s wrist would catch on. So he set out to prove that the wristwatch could be a precise, reliable and waterproof instrument. But one cannot discount the design aspect either, a crucial element that has made Rolex watches instantly recognisable on any wrist.
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Above Each Rolex watch is distinguished by superlative performance (Photo: Rolex)
Each Rolex watch is distinguished by superlative performance (Photo: Rolex)
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Timing Accuracy
The utilitarian aspect of the watch—timekeeping—was Wilsdorf’s main priority. In 1914, Wilsdorf got an early validation when Rolex received a class “A” certificate from Kew Gardens in England, the world’s highest authority at the time for measuring watch precision
This is an unbroken legacy as chronometric precision remains a central focus at Rolex. Today, every Rolex movement is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) while its assembled watches must pass the internal Superlative Chronometer test before they go out to the public. Proving its commitment, Rolex boasts two separate sites for its movements—one in Bienne where the components are manufactured and assembled, and another in Acacias where the movements and cases are assembled and undergo a series of unparalleled tests.
Every Rolex watch is guaranteed to have an exceptional precision of -2/+2 seconds per day, a feat unique to Rolex Manufacture.
Above Winding system via a Perpetual rotor (Photo: Rolex)
Winding system via a Perpetual rotor (Photo: Rolex)
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Perpetual Motion
Rolex effectively removed the need to wind a watch to keep it working with the invention of the self-winding system in 1931. The Perpetual rotor powers up the watch with just the movement of the wrist.
This is not only convenient to the wearer, it also reduces wear-and-tear of the crown since one doesn’t need to use it so much. Today, the autonomy of Rolex watches is up to 72 hours off the wrist.
Above Watches are tested for waterproofness in a hyperbaric tank (Photo: Rolex)
Watches are tested for waterproofness in a hyperbaric tank (Photo: Rolex)
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Inner Strength
To protect the movements against damage from dust and water, Rolex also pays special attention to the cases that house them. Technical advances like the Twinlock and Triplock crowns as well as the Ringlock system have bolstered the resistance of its watches.
They are all subjected to higher pressure during testing stages, with the safety margin pushed up to an additional 10 per cent for the Oyster model, which is waterproof up to 100m. Dive watches like the Submariner, which is water-resistant up to 300m, have an additional safety margin of 25 per cent during testing. The Sea-Dweller is able to survive a depth of 1,220m, while the Rolex Deepsea can dive all the way down to 3,900m without suffering any damage.
Above Aesthetic check of a Jubilee bracelet (Photo: Rolex)
Aesthetic check of a Jubilee bracelet (Photo: Rolex)
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Signature Style
From the robust features of the Cosmograph Daytona to the distinguishing counters of the Day-Date, Rolex watches are distinctive with a timeless appeal. Proprietary materials like Oystersteel and Everose gold lend them further distinction.
Even the bracelets have their own identities—among them, the Oyster and Jubilee bracelets. One bracelet gained its name because of the person wearing it—the President bracelet that exclusively accompanies the Day-Date, which received its moniker after it was spotted on the wrist of US President Lyndon B. Johnson.
Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
