H. Moser & Cie x MB&F Only Watch 2023
Cover H. Moser & Cie x MB&F Only Watch 2023
H. Moser & Cie x MB&F Only Watch 2023

From Patek Philippe to Hublot, discover the most coveted timepieces of the 10th Edition of Only Watch supporting the Only Foundation’s mission to accelerate research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy and other genetic diseases

Last fall, Only Watch announced 63 lots that would be featured in its biennial charity auction of unique watches, which was to take place on November 5, 2023, in Geneva. With watches from 73 watchmakers and brands, including 16 collaborations between watchmakers, artists, and legendary brands, the event was set to mark the 10th anniversary of the charity auction.

However, the auction was postponed due to questions raised over the handling of the charity’s finances. The organisation has since completed its financial audit and is now set to host the event on May 10, 2024. There are 47 lots for auction, with participation from major watchmakers like Patek Philippe, Bulgari, Blancpain, Tag Heuer and Hublot. 

The selection of timekeepers will showcase an innovative and fresh touch, combining iconic loyal brands and young brilliant watchmaking talents. The Only Watch auction, conducted by Christie's, will be held digitally and in-person, with the bidding starting from 2pm (CEST) on May 10, 2024 at Palexpo.

In anticipation of the auction, Tatler GMT has selected some of the watches on offer. All proceeds from the auction will benefit the Only Foundation, a charity dedicated to accelerating research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy and genetic diseases.

Read more: Introducing: Tatler GMT, an exclusive community to connect watch enthusiasts and inspire passion

1. Urwerk

Tatler Asia
Urwerk Space-Time Blade Only Watch 2023
Above Urwerk Space-Time Blade Only Watch 2023
Urwerk Space-Time Blade Only Watch 2023

Working with Dalibor Farny that makes Nixie tubes, a vintage electronic device displaying symbols or numbers, the Urwerk Space-Time Blade is a 1.62m-tall standing clock that resembles a lightsabre. Comprising eight bulbs, they can display the standard time as well as the distance travelled by Earth in kilometres in one day or one year. 

Who is it for?

Treasure hunters with a yen for science fiction.

Estimate: CHF45,000 to CGF80,000 (US$49,500 to US$88,000)

 

2. Rexhep Rexhepi

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Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique Only Watch 2023
Above Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique Only Watch 2023
Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique Only Watch 2023

Rexhep Rexhepi’s elegantly built chronometer has been enhanced with antimagnetic protection in the form of a non-magnetic stainless steel case with a double caseback construction. The screwed-down back can be removed to reveal a sapphire crystal whereupon one can admire the manual-winding movement. A Faraday cage surrounding the dial and movement provides an additional shield. The watch features a zero-reset seconds where the seconds hand returns to zero when the crown is pulled to wind the watch—such action ensures better precision.

Who is it for?

Connoisseurs who enjoy traditional craftsmanship with a contemporary touch.

Estimate: CHF100,000 to CHF150,000 (US$110,000 to US$165,000)

3. Richard Mille

Tatler Asia
Richard Mille Only Watch 2023
Above (Photo: courtesy of Only Watch)
Richard Mille Only Watch 2023

Richard Mille has created a unique piece called the RMS14 for the Only Watch auction. The watchmaker’s interpretation of a mysterious golden relic, nicknamed Talisman Origine, this pendant was discovered in the heart of the Swiss mountains. The relic is made of rhodonite, titanium, and gold with engraved symbols, and the RMS14 is a tribute to what the pendant could have looked like centuries ago. The RMS14 goes beyond the concept of a watch and is fully hand-engraved, integrating rhodonite and wood parts. The watch will come with a necklace made of Swiss grapevine wood, marble, and rhodonite.

Who is it for?

Jewellery lovers who have a penchant for timepieces.

Estimate: CHF600,000 to CHF800,000 (US$660,000 to US$880,000)

4. Hublot

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Hublot x Takashi Murakami Only Watch 2023
Above Hublot x Takashi Murakami Only Watch 2023
Hublot x Takashi Murakami Only Watch 2023

The whimsical smiling flower of Takashi Murakami is given a haute horlogerie pairing with a central tourbillon, which was a special request from the Japanese artist himself. The MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Only Watch is the first Hublot watch to feature a central flying tourbillon that is seemingly suspended in mid-air with two hands passing under its cage to indicate the hours and the minutes. The poetic spin finds a kindred spirit in Murakami's flower set with 444 coloured gemstones. 

Who is it for?

Art lovers who enjoy Murakami's joyful creations

Estimate: CHF350,000 to CHF400,000

5. Gérald Genta

Tatler Asia
Gerald Genta Only Watch 2023
Above Gérald Genta Mickey Mouse timepiece for Only Watch (Photo: courtesy of Only Watch)
Gerald Genta Only Watch 2023

For its first appearance at the Only Watch auction, Gérald Genta has created a unique timepiece called the Gérald Genta Only Watch 2024. The watch features a minute repeater complication and a retrograde display of time with an animated Mickey Mouse, a beloved character that has played a central role in the Gérald Genta brand since the 1980s. The watch is housed in a white gold octagonal case and features a champlevé enamel dial with a smiling enamelled Mickey Mouse holding a birthday cake aloft.

Who is it for?

The watch is expected to attract collectors of both vintage and modern timepieces.

Estimate: CHF350,000 to CHF500,000 (US$385,000 to US$550,000)

6. Patek Philippe

Tatler Asia
Patek Philippe reference 6301A-010 (Photo: courtesy of Only Watch)
Above Patek Philippe Only Watch (Photo: courtesy of Only Watch)
Patek Philippe reference 6301A-010 (Photo: courtesy of Only Watch)

Patek Philippe has created an exclusive limited-edition wristwatch as a tribute to Philippe Stern, the honorary president of the company who turned 85 in November. The watch features a grand complication with an entirely new movement designed and produced exclusively for this tribute watch. This 30-piece limited edition includes a unique Only Watch design version, with the first timepiece being offered to the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies for its fundraising auction in favour of research on Muscular Dystrophies and genetic diseases. Patek Philippe is honouring the exceptional career of Philippe Stern while supporting a cause that is dear to the Stern family.

Who is it for?

Legacy seekers, looking to own a part of history.

Estimate: Undisclosed

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7. Piaget

Tatler Asia
Piaget Only Watch 2023
Above Photo: courtesy of Only Watch
Piaget Only Watch 2023

The Piaget Polo Skeleton Arty is a brightly coloured unique watch which pays homage to the Hexa Grace artwork by Victor Vasarely exhibited in Monaco. The watch features an ultra-thin Manufacture calibre 1200S1 with green, blue, and rose-gold colored skeletonised bridges specifically designed for this piece. The watch is housed in an 18k pink gold cushion-shaped case with a sapphire case back and comes with an interchangeable blue calf leather strap with green stitches.

Who is it for?

 Collectors of Piaget timepieces and those who appreciate unique, artistic design.

Estimate: CHF50,000 to CHF80,000 (US$55,000 to US$88,000)

Don't miss: Wristcheck's Austen Chu on ageism in the watch industry and attracting Gen Z collectors

8. H. Moser & Cie x MB&F

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Photo 1 of 4 H Moser & Cie and MB&F collaborate for a unique piece made for the Only Watch charity (Photo: courtesy of H Moser & Cie)
Photo 2 of 4 Photo: courtesy of Only Watch
Photo 3 of 4 Photo: courtesy of Only Watch
Photo 4 of 4 Photo: courtesy of Only Watch
H Moser & Cie and MB&F collaborate for a unique piece made for the Only Watch charity (Photo: courtesy of H Moser & Cie)
H. Moser & Cie x MB&F Only Watch 2023
(Photo: courtesy of Only Watch)
(Photo: courtesy of Only Watch)

H Moser & Cie and MB&F have collaborated to create a unique timepiece called the H Moser x MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium for the Only Watch charity auction. The result: a giant stir in the horology world. The watch features a one-off movement designed exclusively for this occasion and a miniature panda DJ performing an artistic performance. The watch has a stainless steel case, an aquamarine fumé dial with a sunburst pattern, and an integrated stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp.

Who is it for?

Collectors who appreciate unique and creative timepieces that push the boundaries of traditional watchmaking.

Estimate: CHF300,000 to CHF400,000 (US$330,000 to US440,000)

9. Chopard

Tatler Asia
Chopard Only Watch 2023
Above Photo: courtesy of Only Watch
Chopard Only Watch 2023

The unique watch by Chopard is inspired by the first timepiece in the LUC collection presented in 1997, with an ice green-toned solid white gold guilloché dial and a 36.5mm case made of Chopard’s exclusive Lucent Steel. The watch features a chronometer-certified high-quality movement, the LUC Calibre 96.40-L, wound by a gold micro-rotor and equipped with the two barrels of Chopard twin technology. The successful bidder will be invited to visit Chopard Manufacture and the LUCEUM, Chopard’s private museum about time.

Who is it for?

Those interested in watchmaking experiences and vintage classics.

Estimate: CHF25,000 to CHF35,000 (US$27,500 to US$38,500)

See also: Rare Patek Philippe watch owned by China’s last emperor sells for more than HK$48 million in Phillips auction

10. De Bethune

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Photo 1 of 2 Photo: courtesy of Only Watch
Photo 2 of 2 Photo: courtesy of Only Watch
De Bethune Only Watch 2023
De Bethune Only Watch 2023

This one-of-a-kind timepiece by De Bethune dubbed DW5 Seeking Perfect for Only Watch 23 features a hand-forged case made of Damascus iron and steel from iron ore harvested at L'Auberson, with patterns on its surface originating from different parts of the metal preparation forged together. The watch also features a blued meteorite dial and a spherical meteorite moon. The De Bethune team created a tourbillon movement for the watch that can be seen on the back. The successful bidder will be invited to visit the De Bethune Manufacture in Sainte-Croix and go for a forge tour with Denis Flageollet.

Who is it for?

Those interested in watchmaking experiences and futuristic timepieces.

Estimate: CHF220,000 to CHF270,000 (US$242,000 to US$297,000)

11. Louis Vuitton

Tatler Asia
Louis Vuitton Only Watch 2023
Above Louis Vuitton Only Watch 2023
Tatler Asia
Above Louis Vuitton Only Watch 2023
Louis Vuitton Only Watch 2023

Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Einstein Automata Only Watch 2023 features a dial depicting Albert Einstein in one of his most iconic and playful portraits, crafted with micro-sculpture and grisaille enamel techniques. The watch is powered by the LV 525 calibre movement, with an in-house automata mechanical movement featuring four animations and a power reserve indicator. The watch has a stainless steel case engraved with Only Watch 2023 and N°1/1 and comes with a hand-painted Louis Vuitton trunk.

Who is it for?

Lovers of eclectic, artistic watches supported by innovative technology.

Estimate: CHF340,000 to CHF440,000 (US$374,000 to US$484,000)

Topics

Amrita Katara
Regional Editor, Watches and Jewellery, Tatler Hong Kong
Tatler Asia
Amrita Katara, regional editor watches and jewellery Tatler Asia

As the Regional Editor for Watches and Jewellery and Editorial Content Lead for Tatler GMT, Amrita Katara specialises in luxury watch and jewellery coverage across Asia, with expertise in editorial strategy, feature writing and interviews with industry leaders. Her past roles span luxury lifestyle media and client partnerships. Based in Mumbai, Amrita’s work bridges global trends and Asian market insights.