Cover Leather was worn in polished layers and silhouettes throughout the show (Photo: Hermès)
Leather was worn in polished layers and silhouettes throughout the show (Photo: Hermès)
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The Hermès woman takes on a new edge with the maison’s fall‑winter 2024 collection—a blend of its equestrian heritage and urban toughness presented across two chapters
For fall-winter 2024, Hermès evokes the equestrian spirit in an urban context with a womenswear collection inspired by horse riding and motorcycling. Presented against a moody backdrop in Paris’s Garde Républicaine–the training centre of the horses of the French Republican Guard–the first chapter of the collection introduces “The Rider”, a woman who swaps her saddle for a motorcycle seat, conquering urban landscapes with the same determination as she would a countryside trail, rocking silhouettes that are contemporary reinterpretations of equestrian classics and infused with a biker’s edge to celebrate the liberation of movement.
The show was staged on a stark, black runway, evoking the slickness of a nocturnal cityscape. “Rain” pouring down from the ceiling added to the atmospheric tension—emphasising The Rider’s resilience even in inclement weather.
In case you missed it: Hermès Spring/Summer 2024 collection: Tatler’s top footwear picks
Above Hermès pushed the boundaries of leather craftsmanship
Above Leather was worn in polished layers and silhouettes throughout the show
Hermès pushed the boundaries of leather craftsmanship
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Leather, a material synonymous with biker culture that is worn for its ability to protect against abrasions and injuries as well as insulate against bad weather, is at the heart of the collection and has been reimagined into multiple possibilities—chic belted jumpsuits inspired by a motorcyclist’s coveralls being just one example. Hermès even pushed the boundaries of leather craftsmanship with a new innovation: water-resistant cowhide. The monochromatic leather ensembles in burgundy, brown and even butter yellow seen at the show exuded a polished, edgy aesthetic, elevated by subtle embellishments such as gunmetal studs.
Equestrian influences permeate the collection as well, seen in iterations of the maison’s iconic riding jacket and the sleek, elongated pants inspired by jodhpurs. There is also a belted jacket quilted like a saddle pad, and studded biker jackets that draw from a horse’s saddle. Hermès’s creative director Nadège Vanhee played with unexpected combinations of textures too, not just in terms of creation but also styling.
Above Modern biker looks were fused with equestrian classics
Modern biker looks were fused with equestrian classics
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Cue knitwear reinvented with leather accents, and two leather jackets— one off-white and the other, dark brown with buckles—that feature panels of long, fine fringes of ostrich feathers masterfully dyed in a matching hue and embroidered by a Parisian atelier to create a striking resemblance to horsehair. On the runway, models strutted in oversized poplin coats layered over supple leather.
Sensual silhouettes were also big at the show, with cropped or fitted leather tops adorned with studs paired with split skirts with concealed zippers that fall just below the knee, offering a glimpse of skin. High-waisted trousers grounded the sensuality with a touch of sophistication. Bags-wise, the show presented the iconic Shoulder Birkin, carried close to the body like a shield against the elements, and the new Collier d’Atellage crossbody, which offers hands-free practicality.
The second chapter of the collection unfolded in New York’s Pier 36, marking the first time the maison held its runway show outside of Paris and a tribute to Vanhee’s four-year stay in the city. Capturing the vibrant energy and optimism of New York City while simultaneously celebrating the timeless elegance of Parisian style, this chapter deepens the exploration of equestrian-urban fusion, reimagining riding attire and essentials for the every day.
Butter yellow ensembles broke up a largely sombre colour palette
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Central to this chapter is the maison’s striped Rocabar motif. A house symbol inspired by the designs found on the blankets used on racehorses in the 19th century, it first appeared on an ocher-coloured woolen blanket with navy blue and coral stripes. Its colour scheme was used as a primary reference here. For instance—in a stark departure from the first chapter’s muted tones—coats and bomber jackets come in mustard yellow. At the show, these were styled with knitwear in cobalt blue and earthy browns, and tomato red trousers in equestrian silhouettes that were reinterpreted through New York styling codes. There were also repeated saturated hues in red as an ode to the brick and stone façades of New York’s Lower East Side.
The show was also a masterclass in layering, juxtaposing unexpected elements for a contemporary, eclectic look. Models in leather mariner caps sported looks featuring blue rosette turtlenecks and silk blouses teamed with voluminous layers of vests and bomber jackets. Leather once more plays a big role, featured in flared trousers in varying shades, jumpsuits and outerwear. The last was styled with contemporary flair at the show—think reversible puffers, fishermen’s coats, and equestrian- nspired jackets worn with saddle- nspired miniskirts or colourful, feminine pencil knit skirts, creating an eclectic vibe. At times, jackets were tied around the waist for a real-world touch.
Above The Charniere To Go worn as a belt bag
Above In the first chapter, autumnal hues were worn in textural contrasts, with the Shoulder Birkin
The Charniere To Go worn as a belt bag
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Accessories reinforced the cosmopolitan spirit, with models strutting out with Hermès’s scarves tied at the waist or pulled through belt loops to sit alongside a leather belt with metal hardware. Playing up the urban chic vibe is the new Kelly Danse belt bag and backpack as well as the Arçon and the coveted Kelly Elan in fresh hues.
For fall-winter 2024, Hermès masterfully fused its signature elegance with New York City’s urban energy. Both chapters demonstrate the maison’s ability to seamlessly blend equestrian heritage with cosmopolitan style, resulting in a collection that embodies luxury craftsmanship and cool-girl attitude.
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Nafeesa Saini is the Features Editor at Tatler Singapore, where she shapes long-form stories on culture, business, philanthropy, wellness, and the people driving change in Asia. With a deep interest in storytelling that intersects meaningfully with identity and impact, she has profiled a diverse range of visionaries, from scientific pioneers in AI and health to creative trailblazers and literary minds.
Nafeesa’s writing includes cover stories and profiles that spotlight influential voices, alongside commentary on the trends reshaping our world.
Off the clock, Nafeesa unwinds with fiction, a good thrift hunt, and ‘brainrot’ TikTok scroll—while always keeping one eye on her next cultural getaway, usually to Indonesia.
