9 menswear trends at Paris Men’s Fashion Week, as seen on Louis Vuitton, Hermès and Dior runways

Fashion will never be done with black, as underscored by this season’s runways in Paris Men’s Fashion Week. Louis Vuitton opened its show with 10 all-black outfits in a row, Kim Jones brought a host of black ensembles to Dior’s latest collection, and Chinese designer Feng Chen Wang wrapped up her eponymous brand show with head-to-toe black outfits that highlighted relaxed silhouettes and futuristic footwear.

Monochrome black looks can also embody sensuality, especially when contrasted with transparent elements and layering, as seen at Louis Gabriel Nouchi’s show which saw models evoking a cold-blooded killer aesthetic inspired by Patrick Süskind’s 1985 novel, Perfume: The Story of a Murderer.

Rick Owens celebrated community and sporty chic in his knitted bodysuits that drew from elements of gymnastics attire. The trend was also spotted on Wales Bonner’s runway show, as its models donned drawstring short-shorts and retro T-shirts, evoking a sense of sportswear nostalgia.

Originating from military flight jackets worn by pilots in World War II, bomber jackets have remained evergreen in pop culture since the ’90s. This season at Paris Men’s Fashion Week, designers have infused the timeless piece with greater versatility and creativity.

For example, in Walter Van Beirendonck’s latest collection, the bomber jacket is presented with a touch of humour, playfulness, and an almost childlike aesthetic to showcase his theme for the season—clowns taking centre stage with polka dots galore. Meanwhile, the camouflage bomber jacket in A$AP Rocky’s debut show for AWGE, titled American Sabotage, reflects rap culture and political satire.

Crochet, a classic option for spring and summer, has taken on a more rebellious tone this season by incorporating the fishnet element. The crochet fishnet sweater as seen at Kenzo’s show strikes a balance between cosiness and rebelliousness, while Korean brand System presents a subtler crochet fishnet cardigan that plays it safe.

Vests have made a strong comeback in recent years, for example, suit vests and knit vests. This season saw Korean brand Solid Homme elevating the vest to a utilitarian level and introducing a silhouette perfect for trail running. Prototypes also brought a cargo vest to its runway, and when paired with shirts and hoodies, these vests blur the lines of urban and outdoor fashion.

Brands such as Isabel Marant and Hermès introduced fresh floral patterns to infuse more romance into menswear. The simple, clean lines of flowers on the blazer by Hermès depicted a sense of elegance and freshness, while Isabel Marant created a retro and dreamy ambience with its delicate floral patterns.

Transparent fabrics have been spotted more on menswear runways as gender fluidity has come into the limelight amid LGBTQ+ social movements, and now it is highlighted as a daily essential by brands such as Bluemarble and Yohji Yamamoto. No matter if it’s a vest over top of a casual tee, or a reinterpreted traditional dress shirt, it pushes the boundary of incorporating genderless style into menswear.

Cherry, oxblood and burgundy were key colours for the autumn-winter 2024 collections shown in Milan and Paris, but red remains hot this season, and it’s even bolder now with brighter shades spotted at Paris Men’s Fashion Week. Japanese labels Homme Plisse Issey Miyake Jun Takahashi’s Undercover took different routes: the former instilled energy into practical wear with models sporting eye-catching red cape-like coats, while the latter exuded a glam rock edge with red jackets sans shirts, ’60s and ’70s inspired printed trousers and mesh face masks to boot.

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