How Hermès is bringing its equestrian-inspired identity to its future designs

Hermès took Tatler to a realm of whimsy and wonder, where equestrian inspirations were imbued with artistic energy, in celebration of its latest womenswear collection

An ultra-luxury brand with a history of 186 years, Hermès has done a lot of things right over the years, but perhaps its greatest achievement was its very first: perfecting the craftsmanship behind its harnesses.

In 1837, Thierry Hermès opened a workshop in Paris to make leather 94 harnesses for horses used to pull four-wheeled carriages. While they didn’t look much different from other harnesses on the market, Hermès’s works embodied discreet finesse as well as endurance in all conditions, and were quickly recognised by professional riders.

The first Hermès Haut à Courroies handbag was in the early 20th century designed for equestrians to carry saddles and boots; in 2023, the maison released two new iterations: the Arçon shoulder bag and the Petite Course handbag. The former is inspired by the rounded flaps of a saddle, and the latter by the skirts of the saddles used in equestrian competitions. And now, across 16 product categories, Hermès is reinventing its equestrian and horse-inspired DNA for current and future designs.

Above (Photo: Theo Liu)

And that’s what sent Tatler to Beijing in August. Hermès invited its VIPs and media friends to a mesmerising show of equestrian influences intertwined with artistic fervour. Titled Jockey Jam, the derby-inspired event was an overview of the maison’s autumn-winter 2023 women’s ready-to-wear, footwear, silk and jewellery.

Jockey Jam took place in a former textile warehouse done up to evoke a garden, with projection screens on the walls that transitioned from day to night as the event progressed. From the entrance, guests walked along a pathway adorned with what seemed like resplendent silk flags, seemingly welcoming them to a race. In fact, they were 20 silk scarves, adorned under the creative direction of Cécile Pesce with Brides de Gala (“gala bridles”), an iconic Hermès design.

Above (Photo: Theo Liu)

Guests continued along the path to a facsimile of a landscaped garden created by the projected images, replete with neon architecture, lush vignettes and a topiary of a rearing horse. As the space transformed from dusk to night, the autumn-winter 2023 women’s collection took centre stage in a unique performance curated in collaboration with artist Sara Cwynar.

The show captured the movement and ephemeral nature of a horse race—reflective of how Hermès’s historical journey began—in a fusion of film, choreography and music. Models were not simply strutting down the catwalk, expressionless, but dancing, running and laughing as the silhouettes of their outfits flowed. Behind them played a blend of real-life, real-time and virtual footage, leaving guests guessing as to what was real and what was imaginary.

Above The Jockey Jam venue (Photo: Yang Ming)

None of the looks on display had been presented in Paris earlier in the year, offering loyal fans of the house’s subtle-chic vibe an especial treat. Creative director Nadège Vanhée demonstrated a mastery of monotones in rich textures and premium fabrics, showing 24 new looks on 24 models, which expanded upon the runway collection, presenting a more youthful, preppier and more layered version of the Paris offerings. Accessories remained the focus: 24 unisex Noeuds backpacks, dynamic tasselled Birkin bags, berets and riding hats amplified the equestrian spirit.

The garden transformed into a starry night after the show, and guests were treated to a special performance by two talented musicians: cellist Kelsey Lu joined forces with singer-songwriter Lucinda Chua, both wearing Hermès Clou d’H fine jewellery. Later, a DJ ignited the atmosphere, transforming the space into an exclusive club where the beats played long into the night.

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How Hermès is bringing its equestrian-inspired identity to its future designs