Behind the Walls: Where to go in Intramuros and why does it matter to preserve this gem?

Last November 21, the newly-built Centro de Turismo inside the old site of San Ignacio Church and its adjacent Museo de Intramuros reopened to the public with better curation of its spaces and more durable architectural support. Using the conservation management plan as the backbone for its visual storytelling, the centre features the history of Intramuros spanning over four centuries from a social, economic and pastoral perspective. Centro de Turismo serves as a starting point for everyone who wishes to understand the district and the history of its people before visiting other sites.

IA’s curatorial team for the present look of Centro de Turismo and Museo de Intramuros includes Eric Zerrudo, Mico Manalo, Hannah Cunanan, and Al Valenciano, among others. They have built upon the existing curation and exhibition texts of IA’s Esperanza Gatbonton, Martin Tinio, Santiago Pilar, Dino Carlo Santos, and more.

Read more: 500 years of Christianity in the Philippines: The influence of Catholicism on Philippine art

“The biggest challenge was how to compress over 400 years of history and culture into the two spaces while remaining accurate and engaging to various audiences,” said one of the architects behind the adaptive reuse project.

Museo de Intramuros, on the reconstructed Mission House of the Jesuits, focuses on religious art, artefacts and the spiritual life of Filipinos during the Spanish Colonial Period. The team behind the adaptive reuse project maintained the existing narrative in Museo de Intramuros, which was put together by the best minds in Philippine Ecclesiastical Art.

Atty Joan M Padilla, who helms the IA as its administrator, shared her excitement about Intramuros’s refurbished tourist hubs.

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“With its extensive display of exhibits and artefacts, the centre will offer an immersive narrative of Intramuros—from its rich past starting from pre-colonial times to the Spanish Colonial Era when Intramuros was the seat of government, to the destruction brought by the Second World War, and onward to the current and future developments of this Walled City,” Padilla said. “Also part of the adaptive reuse project is the old site of Ateneo de Manila [across the Museo de Intramuros], which is now being converted into an events venue.” Meanwhile, the national government is building the new home of the National Archives of the Philippines across the Pasig River Esplanade.

Intramuros’s recent accolades truly put it on the international tourism map, expressing IA’s commitment to enhancing the visitor experience.

“We are making Intramuros more tourist-friendly by pedestrianising some streets and placing more signage and accessibility features. We leverage digital media’s power to promote further what Intramuros has to offer,” Padilla said.

Read more: Casa Manila, Intramuros Renovation: Exclusive interview with the architect J Anton Mendoza

Indeed, tourists would not be easily lost anymore in immersing themselves throughout Intramuros with all the educational signages in every ruined site, restored or adaptively reused structures, and gates. One of the signage increasing in the area informs visitors of the operating hours of particular sites like Fort Santiago, Baluarte de San Diego, and Casa Manila Museum, the public transportation rates for kalesa, pedicabs and e-trikes, lists of IA-managed parking areas and Tourism department-accredited tour guides that are accessible via QR codes, and about the latest experiential offering of Tranvia rentals. Not included in the signage but has gained popularity since its founding was the Bambike Ecotours, which allow tourists to rent bamboo bikes to roam around the streets.

“Alongside these, we are also mindful of sustainable tourism practices, including waste reduction efforts in collaboration with the rest of the Intramuros community,” continued the IA administrator.

STORES

If you’re looking for elegantly designed collectables, fashion accessories, and decors, the trusted Tesoros shop is right outside the Plaza San Luis complex, sandwiched in a line of cafés that can satisfy your cravings after a day-long trip around Intramuros. There is another branch along General Luna Street where you can check the antique store Silahis Center and its souvenir store counterpart, Silahis Art and Artifacts. Also located on General Luna Street is the clothing shop Pilibustero, dedicated to people who love Philippine history and cultural heritage, informing the designs of their bags, shirts, and other fashion needs.

HOTELS

Known for its contemporary luxury design elements that capture the historical charm of Intramuros, check in at The Bayleaf Hotel along Muralla Street. It houses 57 stylish guest rooms with panoramic views of Manila and has dining amenities to suit your needs.

For more heritage-inspired accommodation, visit the White Knight Hotel along General Luna Street corner Urdaneta Street. Its 29 rooms are safe and comfortable, bedecked with imperial wood furniture.

FOR THE ARTISTS AT HEART

If you’ve already been to Manila Cathedral, Fort Santiago, Baluarte de San Diego, and Casa Manila, as well as roamed around the streets of Intramuros on a kalesa, try visiting some of these newly opened or lesser-known spots to appreciate more of the Walled City’s old charm.

Inside Fort Santiago is the Baluartillo de San Francisco Javier, which sometimes would convert into a pop-up gallery space. When visiting the famous Museo ni Jose Rizal, try to catch their art sessions done en plein air. Other must-see gallery spaces are the NCCA Gallery inside the NCCA building lobby along General Luna Street and the Instituto Cervantes along Real Street just beside the Plaza San Luis complex. Both of which have rotating exhibitions to see. Check out the Bahay Tsinoy Museum of the Filipino-Chinese community along Anda Street and the Bagumbayan Light and Sound Museum along Sta Lucia Street for an immersive experience of history and culture.

On the mezzanine level of Centro de Turismo, there is an upcoming exhibition focusing on Spanish engineering, set to open this year.

DINE

When visiting Intramuros, having a gustatory experience that highlights Spanish-influenced Filipino cuisine is necessary. This is best savoured at Barbara’s at the Plaza San Luis complex, especially on nights with rondalla performances. Ilustrado is another all-time favourite, located at Cabildo Street corner Recoletos Street. It’s also an excellent venue for intimate weddings. If you wish to understand the ecclesiastical history of Intramuros, check out Ristorante delle Mitre across San Agustin Church, the oldest stone church in the country.

For a more relaxed vibe when dining with friends, you might want to visit La Cathedral Café, where you can watch the district transform into a romantic night setting. It is along Cabildo Street and offers a view of the dome of Manila Cathedral.

Other casual dining spots line up at Beaterio Street. There is Cafe Janealo with its Asian cuisine, Patio de Conchita in a Filipino turo-turo style, and Balai Maria, which offers Filipino homegrown favourites while providing space for rising visual artists.

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