Penang-Born Chef Mano Thevar on His Michelin Restaurant in Singapore

The Penang-born founder of Thevar talks what it's like to receive two stars from the Michelin guide in 2022

Chef Mano Thevar has always had a passion for food. Born and raised in Penang, the undisputed food haven of Malaysia, and part of a family that's big on home-cooked meals, it's little wonder that he chose food as his career path.

Thevar, 32, began his career in 2011 as a chef de partie at Guy Savoy (now closed) in Singapore, before leaving for Netherlands in 2015 to sharpen his skills at two Michelin-starred Pure C. He returned to Singapore a couple of years later to join Chef Tetsuya Wakuda's two Michelin-starred Waku Ghin.

Although he had no experience working in an Indian restaurant, Thevar took the leap of faith in 2018 and opened one at the edge of Singapore's Chinatown.

Above Chef Mano Thevar was born and raised in Penang

When dining at Thevar, throw all your expectations about Indian and South Asian food out the window and get ready for a fine culinary discovery. The menu takes inspiration from the vibrancy and diversity of Indian cuisine and artfully morphs its flavours with European techniques and Japanese produce—a culmination of Thevar's own experiences prior to opening his eponymous restaurant.

"I was trained in proper classical French and had used a lot of Japanese produce thanks to my time at Waku Ghin," explains Thevar. "So I combined all that with my own Indian and Malaysian flavours."

Above Poriyal Mille Feuille

Using the most luxurious ingredients, Thevar puts a refined twist on traditional Indian dishes. The menu teems with some of the most creative and unexpected flavour combinations and cooking styles.

For instance, the poriyal is elevated from a humble stir-fry to a mille feuille. The Oyster Rassam Granita is a modern take on the spicy South Indian soup with the rassam made into granita and piled on top of a juicy oyster, combining the cool, smooth texture of the oyster with the crunch and spice of the granita.

He also takes inspiration from his own mother's recipes, including the Crab Curry Rice, which is a popular item on the menu. This dish started in his home kitchen and on the streets of Pulau Tikus market in George Town, Penang.

"It's my take on a biryani but with crab curry and we do it nasi kerabu style," states the proud Penangite. "One day, I bought some nasi kerabu back from an old lady with a push cart at Pulau Tikus. My mom was making crab curry that night and I put some of her curry onto the rice. When I took a bite, I went silent; it was delicious. I thought about that combination on my flight back to Singapore and said to myself that I just had to recreate it in my restaurant."

The open kitchen concept allows diners to get a peek into the preparation and plating process.

Above The open kitchen at Thevar

The warmly-lit dining room makes for a classy and elegant dining experience

Above The elegant and warm interior of Thevar

Thevar's remarkable ability to remix influences, textures, and flavour profiles didn't happen overnight.

"My childhood influenced my career in food," explains the Michelin-starred chef. "I was always curious about things as a child. Even when I was eating char kuey teow or hor fun, I'd look out for the wok hei (breath of the wok); these were the dishes that I grew up eating that impacted my life."

Food isn't also just a vessel to exercise his creativity; it's also his way to connect with communities and make people happy. "For me, food always makes people happy, and if you're already happy, tasty food will make you happier," he beams. "When you see the guests smiling as they are eating, that's the best feeling."

Above Pani Puri

He says that the most challenging part about running his own restaurant wasn't that he never worked at an Indian restaurant. In fact, it's quite the contrary. "Not having worked with Indian flavours professionally was blessing. It give me the freedom to be creative."

It has paid off as Thevar was awarded a second Michelin star in 2022, which serves as a huge encouragement. "We're very happy and very motivated to push our boundaries. We were feeling lucky and so excited for our first star (last year), so when the second star came along, we were even more surprised. I told my team to keep doing what we're doing and keep pushing to keep things consistent."

Above Oyster Rassam Granita

Despite the accolades, Thevar's goal remains humble. "I just want to serve my guests tasty food with good produce. I want them to leave the restaurant happy with their experience. That's the most important thing."

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Chef Mano Thevar on Running a Michelin-Starred Restaurant