Photo: Unsplash
Cover Photo: Unsplash

Planning a foodie trip to Penang soon? Here are your best bets when it comes to the city's most iconic street food

Penang, like Singapore, is well known for its vast selection of street and hawker food. From char kway teow to prawn mee, there’s no shortage of different (and very famous) renditions that you have to try if you are visiting. 

Of course, as with all street food, everyone has a different (and very passionate) opinion of what the best ones are and so ultimately, you just have to try them all to form your own opinion. 

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As an ardent foodie with very strong food opinions, I was extremely excited when I flew down to Penang with my family for a week-long trip last month. I was ready to try all the hawker food possible and I had made a list of what Google deemed the most famous. 

Of course, all my plans were thrown out the window almost immediately when I hopped into my first cab in Penang to head to a supposedly famous char kway teow spot. The driver heard my destination and gave me a weird look.

“You’re going here?” he asked while making a face. “But why?”

He immediately recommended what was, in his opinion, a much better option and changed course to drop us there instead. Suffice to say, he was right.

After all, who would know a city better than its cab drivers, many of whom have trawled the streets for years and tried all the food there is to try? This quickly became my favourite thing to do in Penang. I would get into a cab and ask the driver to recommend a street food spot and attempt to try it.

By the end of my trip, I managed to compile a pretty solid list of some of the best street food in Penang, all recommended by the city’s trusty cab drivers. 

As promised, here are my findings that you, too, can use to kickstart your epicurean trip to Penang. 

1. Siam Road Charcoal Char Koay Teow

It’s hard to go anywhere in Penang without someone recommending a visit to Siam Road Charcoal Char Koay Teow so we knew that it was a must-try after a cab driver (and the BBC) passionately explained why it was the best. 

“I used to go there before it was even famous,” our taxi driver said with a laugh. “It was very good. And then some Thai actress ate there or something and it started getting popular and it really just grew from there. Now the lines are so long.”

Siam Road Charcoal Char Koay Teow is helmed by one of the oldest char kway teow hawkers in Malaysia, Tan Chooi Hong, and his son, who will take over the cooking whenever his 80-year-old father gets a little tired.

The humble stall features Uncle Tan frying up plate after plate of goodness in a blazing outdoor wok covered only with a metallic taupe. Behind him is a small and cramped seating area where diners are quickly and methodically seated and ushered away once they are done. 

The steaming hot plate of char kway teow itself is simple in its conception with fresh noodles, eggs, salty-sweet Chinese sausage, crunchy beansprouts and fresh shrimp. The wok hei, gleaned from the charcoal stove Uncle Tan uses, adds depth to the dish and the sausage and shrimp provide an umami richness.

Tatler Tip:

No matter what time of the day you go, expect to wait at least two hours or more for your meal. Take note that the stall also typically closes at 6 pm and that the line at some point will be cut off to ensure that they can close on time. Your best bet will be to arrive as early as possible and to be prepared to wait in the heat. 

2. 888 Hokkien Mee

This recommendation came from our cab driver who picked us up, hot and sweaty, from Siam Road Charcoal Char Koay Teow and jovially reminded us that Penang was more than just its char kway teow.

“888 Hokkien Mee is so popular it’s only open for three hours, five days a week. It’s so hard to eat here because they sell out so fast,” our driver shared. 

Located along Lebuh Presgrave, 888 Hokkien Mee, like most famous spots in Penang, operates out of a humble rollaway stall. The menu is simple and you can opt to add on ingredients such as noodles, eggs, pork ribs and roasted pork to your Penang Hokkien mee if you so wished.

The broth itself is really where this dish shines. The savoury and spicy soup clings beautifully to the chewy yellow noodles while the fresh prawns provide a delicious crunch and added umami flavour. 

Tatler Tip: 

Located just next to 888 Hokkien Mee is an Oh Chien stall which serves up steaming hot plates of oyster omelettes that pair beautifully with the prawn mee. The omelettes feature fresh and big oysters and are perfectly seasoned and cooked up. It is definitely a must-try if you are in the area.

3. Ah Leng Char Koay Teow

Ah Leng Char Koay Teow was recommended to us by a Grab driver who picked us up from Penang Hill. We were headed to Left-Handed Char Koay Teow after a full afternoon of walking and climbing around Penang’s famous hill and wanted respite. 

“What’s Left-Handed Char Koay Teow? That one I haven’t even heard of. I’ll take you to a better one, okay?” our driver said briskly before immediately changing course.

So what else did we do but agree and dutifully alighted at the side of a dingy road with nothing in sight except Ah Leng Char Koay Teow’s banner flapping in the breeze.

Unlike Siam Road Charcoal Char Koay Teow, Ah Leng Char Koay Teow uses a gas stove which changes the flavour profile of the char kway teow significantly (a fact that was imparted by a separate taxi driver, funnily enough).

His set-up is very simple and Ah Leng cooks plate after plate rhythmically at an outdoor set-up and with a blazing wok. Behind him is a coffeeshop-style seating area that is perpetually full of people.

The stall is special in that it offers up the option to have duck or chicken eggs in your char kway teow. You also have the option to add on ingredients such as noodles and extra prawns. 

Each plate is served up steaming and straight from the wok and it’s easy to see why it is so well-loved by locals and tourists alike (personally, this was my favourite rendition of the dish out of all the spots I tried in Penang).

The noodles are served with succulent jumbo-size prawns, bean sprouts and fresh noodles. The savoury seafood flavour comes through strongly and the wok hei was perfectly balanced with the flavour profile. 

Tatler Tip:

Even if you have never tried it before, opt for the duck egg with your char kway teow. The creaminess of the egg adds a richness to the dish that is incomparable. The yolk of the duck eggs also gives the noodles a more vibrant orange colour and overall elevates an already decadent plate of noodles. It is well worth the extra calories for sure.

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4. Loh Kei Duck Meat Koay Teow Th'ng

Located within the compound of a colonial mansion in Georgetown, Loh Kei Duck Meat Koay Teow Th’ng is extremely popular with locals and relatively unheard of with tourists. 

“They close at 11.30 am every day but actually, the noodles mostly sell out by about 10 am. You need to go very early if you want to try it,” a cab driver told us.

A standard bowl of this soupy goodness comes with fishballs, meatballs, shredded duck meat, fried pork lard and of course, fresh flat egg noodles. 

The soup base is savoury with an underlying sweetness from the stock and is very rich when paired with the ingredients. You can also opt for a dry version which is equally rich and flavourful. The spicy chilli sauce pairs well with the noodles and ingredients to make for a very satisfying meal.

Tatler Tip:

Even though a bowl of noodles comes with shredded duck meat, we highly recommend ordering an extra side dish of duck meat. The meat is sliced thinly and mixed with a light soya sauce and bean sprouts making for a refreshing and hearty bite. 

5. Lorong Selamat Char Koay Teow

Lorong Selamat Char Koay Teow was another spot we couldn’t go anywhere without someone mentioning it. Unsurprisingly, it was one of the most highly ranked places on Google and by every cab driver we asked. 

Like its competitors, Lorong Selamat Char Koay Teow operates out of a cart on wheels that is attached to a bicycle and has a seating area behind her (yes, we have a female hawker on the list).

Here, you get your classic plate of char kway teow that features big prawns, egg noodles, crunchy bean sprouts and Chinese sausages. 

The noodles are fried above a charcoal fire so you really get that wok hei flavour that powers through with every bite. The noodles are served slightly wet and with more garlic so if that is how you like it, this is the version for you. 

Tatler Tip:

The hawker has a reputation for being quite unfriendly and may probably not acknowledge you when you place your order. But as we all know, the unfriendlier the hawker, the tastier the food.

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