Cover Photo: Getty Images
Photo: Getty Images
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From The Middle Ages to Y2k, take a look at how Christmas fare has evolved over time, especially in the West
When considering Christmas staples, the foods that come to mind are the familiar roast turkeys, stuffing, variations of potato, and spiced, dried fruit-filled treats. Christmas feasts have not always looked like this, however. The culinary world in its entirety has transformed drastically with socio-cultural impacts of social mobility, recession, and industrialisation affecting the states of dinner tables and cuisine. The emergence and decay of some traditions and rituals have seen celebratory food evolve to incorporate more abundant produce or reflect a culture’s current mindset.
Inevitable trend cycles influenced culinary consciousness and gave rise to the gelatinous, popularising meat suspended in aspic and salads made entirely of green jelly and mini marshmallows. Sitting comfortably in the last month of 2023, contemplating culinary phenomena borne out of inflation and never-before-experienced abundance—like TikTok’s ‘girl dinner’—we’ve decided to look at the evolution of festive foods.
Read more: The Fascinating Stories Behind 7 Popular Christmas Foods
Late Middle Ages to Early Renaissance
Above Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon (Photo: Getty Images)
Above A swan (Photo Getty: Images)
Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon (Photo: Getty Images)
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Throughout history, waterfowl and poultry have been consistently gastronomically revered. Present day ceremonial dishes like Peking duck, roast chicken, or turkey are served during times of festivity and commemoration. Goose fat, the opulent cousin of comparatively accessible duck fat, is still used as a sumptuous replacement for commonplace cooking fats.
Take, for example, swans. These invasive birds used to outnumber the ruling class’ gourmet centrepieces on Christmas Day, being a popular protein in England until the introduction of turkey in the 16th century. The swan was the bird of choice for wealthy aristocracy due to its association with nobility. Despite having little to no fat, they were sold for ten times the price of geese.
The banquet tables of Henry VIII housed swans and, bafflingly, peacocks. Swans became so highly regarded by the British monarchy that the office of the Keeper of the King / Queen’s Swans was implemented to grant royalty sole ownership of mute swans. Active from the 17th century to 1993, the office deemed it illegal to kill a swan as they were considered Sovereign property. Eventually, swans fell out of epicurean fashion and were firmly supplanted by turkey, in part due to its 1843 immortalisation in Charles Dickens’ A Christmas Carol.
The Great Depression
Above Laneway during The Great Depression (Photo: Getty Images)
Above Tinned peaches and green beans (Photo: Getty Images)
Laneway during The Great Depression (Photo: Getty Images)
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Glossing over a few centuries, the 1930s saw a crippling economic downturn that affected most of the world. In the US, Christmas was celebrated using distant and modified ancestors of today’s festive meals. Affordable and accessible ingredients took centre stage, with most unable to put food on their tables regularly.
Trade and barter systems were reinstated, seeing eggs become currency in the Midwest. Plum puddings held together with walnuts were preserved months in advance, and tinned legumes were transformed into lima bean casseroles. Growing ingredients became common out of necessity, with some pickling garden produce like cabbage, beets, and peaches so they would have enough for the holidays. Instead of roasting, chicken (often home-slaughtered) was boiled, and the water was not wasted, becoming gravy.
The 50s & 60s
Above Vintage celebratory table setting (Photo: Getty Images)
Above Aspic with meat and vegetables (Photo: Getty Images)
Vintage celebratory table setting (Photo: Getty Images)
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Perhaps the most removed from today’s foods, post-war era salads were soft, saccharine, and still green. Aspics— savoury jelly filled with meat or vegetables— were all the rage. Visual aesthetics and convenience took precedence. Homemakers pigeonholed into stereotypical gender roles who cleaned houses and took over childcare were also expected to whip up hot meals nightly.
Enter gelatine. Every vintage recipe discovered by this writer has involved some iteration of gelatine, be it aspic, lime jelly, or marshmallows. Instant gelatine was viewed as the food of the future, symbolising modernity since it required refrigeration, which only became common in the 40s. Festive foods were often moulded in bundt pans, topped with maraschino cherries, and seemed inedible. Gelatine was glorified for its transparency, clearly desplaying each ingredient featured in the dish, and ability to utilise every ounce of leftovers. A typical festive showstopper was Jell-O Salad, made with chopped celery, tomatoes, and cucumber encased in lime or lemon jelly. Some variations of the Jell-O Salad included the tomato aspic ring— jellied tomato juice dotted with vegetables and sometimes topped with potato salad. The popularity of these creations waned once Julia Child made gourmet French home cooking accessible and revolutionised American cuisine.
See also: 10 local markets and bazaars to help with your Christmas shopping
Y2K
Sex and The City might not be heralded for its contributions to culinary culture, but considering its role in the early 2000s cupcake craze, it should be. Featuring the now world-famous cupcake specialist Magnolia Bakery, this TV show ushered in the era of the cupcake, unwittingly popularising them as elevated treats. Cupcakes earned their place in ephemeral trend cycles, with bakers experimenting with innovative flavours, fillings, and icings. Cupcakes graced Christmas spreads as chic contemporary desserts.
Carrie Bradshaw did for cupcakes what she did for blue Manolo Blahnik pumps. The show additionally iconicised another Christmas staple—the cranberry. Making cosmopolitans the trendiest cocktail of the era, while not documented, it’s not hard to imagine that these doubled as festive tipples. While cupcakes have existed since the 18th century, it took the doing of a pop culture sensation to allow them a short-lived spot in Christmas history.
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Now
Individuals can now access seasonal produce year-round and in non-conducive climates. Charcuterie boards with brie, fruit paste, and herbed crackers usually appear during the holidays. Supporting local communities and dishes has become increasingly valued, with more spreads including culturally specific and significant dishes. Recipes from the test kitchens of renowned chefs and publications are readily available, seeing festive spreads that include complex dishes and contemporary ingredients.
While it is too early to tell if this era will have its own Jell-O salad, for now, Christmas spreads fuse tradition with bespoke and experimental contributions.
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About
Chelsea is a Dining Writer for Tatler Malaysia. When she’s not eating or writing about eating, she’s probably deciphering which oat milks froth the best for homemade flat whites.
Work
Chelsea writes about where to find great food and is passionate about exploring the cultural significance of different cuisines.
