Cover Weekend brunch at Nobu
Weekend brunch at Nobu
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No, fusion is no longer a dirty word. Here are the best restaurants in Singapore to explore different cuisines that seamlessly meld into one another
Seasons change, trends come and go, and it is now time to deliver fusion food from the trenches of that which is deemed inedible, vile, and abhorrent.
If you really think about it, all food is fusion food. The tomato, which is so integral to Italian cuisine, is native to the New World. Tea, of course, was never invented in Britain, but in India and China. That some of the godfathers of fusion cuisine like New Zealand-native Peter Gordon and Australian-born Luke Mangan sought to fuse cuisines together in the latter half of the 20th century is only an extension of the culinary globalisation of the world going back centuries. What set them apart was their ingenuity and the expertise to back it up, deftly combining traditions and ingredients across Europe, Asia, the Americas, the Middle East and more to deliver powerful dishes that pushed the boundaries of gastronomy.
But it is all too easy for the less-experienced chef to collapse under the weight of all the world’s culinary cultures. Under the hand of a chef without the expertise, “fusion” collapses into cacophonous vomit on a plate burnished with flimsy justifications and unrealised potential.
Today most scorn the breath that dares utter the word “fusion”. But as these top restaurants in Singapore show, fusion food can be just as good as time-honoured, “authentic” plates. No, this isn’t simplistic east-meets-west fusion. These restaurants start with a deep appreciation of two seemingly disparate food cultures before finding the synergies between them for something truly unique. Still think fusion is a dirty word? Only if you let it.
Don't miss: Why Do Chefs Hate the Word “Fusion”?
1. Tambi
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Some of Singapore’s greatest culinary minds have met in what could be the most anticipated restaurant opening this year. Tambi, which recently opened on June 30, is the product of self-professed best friends Mano Thevar (Thevar, two Michelin stars) and Sun Kim (Meta, one Michelin star). A casual eatery featuring an electric blend of Korean and Southern Indian cuisine.
Here, you can find chicken curry laced with kimchi, a potent blend of two highly specific cuisines that result in an explosion of flavours. A daikon and cucumber kimchi also makes its way into an oxtail bone marrow murtabak, balancing perfectly the rich fattiness of the murtabak with its crunch and acidity. Both chefs never shy away from spice, which results in Tambi’s version of grouper polichatu, a fish dish that’s spiked with gochujang (red pepper paste) for a spicy and slightly sweet flavour.
Tambi, 47 Amoy Street, S(069873), +65 9838 8401
2. Ms Maria & Mr Singh
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“A reflection of a love affair between a Mexican home town girl and an Indian city boy”—or so the story goes. At Ms Maria & Mr Singh, the flavours of Mexican and Indian home cooking collides with the passion of lovers in an explosive menu designed by celebrity chef Gaggan Anand, the mastermind behind the now-closed two Michelin-starred Gaggan.
A perfect starter is the Ms Maria & Mr Singh ceviche, starring marinated barramundi with Hokkaido scallops and prawns for extra indulgence, with crispy yam and pickled cucumbers adding a lovely textural crunch. A truffle quesadilla is not to be missed, which combines Indian cottage cheese masala with black truffle paste, Emmental truffle honey and mozzarella for a powerful umami kick. Spice is expected at a Mexican-Indian fusion restaurant, so prepare your taste buds for Gaggan’s crab curry, which sees generous servings of crab meat in a luscious South Indian curry, topped with a fragrant curry leaf oil.
Ms Maria & Mr Singh, 43 Craig Road, S(089681)
3. Chifa!
Above Food spread at Chifa! (Photo: Resorts World Sentosa)
Food spread at Chifa! (Photo: Resorts World Sentosa)
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Entire continents separate China and Peru, but over time and the movement of peoples, Peruvian-Chinese cuisine was born. Named chifa after the Chinese phrase “chi fan”, or “eat rice” barked by Chinese immigrants at lunchtime, chifa now has its own traditions, twists, and flairs that combine the best of Chinese and Peruvian cuisine.
It’s this fusion that chef de cuisine Rodrigo Serrano pays homage to at Chifa!, one of Resorts World Sentosa’s newest restaurants. Take the dim sum selection, which includes the crab reventado jiao zi, which sees Chinese dumplings filled with a Peruvian-style crab stew. Elsewhere, a traditional Chinese roasted pork is enhanced with tamal dumplings made of rice, lettuce tacos, and Chifa!’s own chilli sauce. Round off the meal with a mandarin orange arroz con leche (rice in milk), a twist on the traditional rice pudding with mandarin oranges, golden raisins, and topped with black sesame ice cream.
Chifa!, 8 Sentosa Gateway, 01-103 Hotel Michael, S(098269), +65 6577 6558
4. Barood
Above Goat biryani arancini at Barood (Photo: Barood)
Goat biryani arancini at Barood (Photo: Barood)
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The flavours of Latin America and India shine at Barood, an intimate izakaya helmed by Revolver executive chef Saurabh Udinia. The tapas at Barood plunges headfirst into the eclectic tastes both regions possess with items like the spiced paneer taco, which sees cottage cheese mash accompanied by a coriander and lime aioli for a comfort dish that’s indulgent yet balanced. A biryani arancini will satisfy all your biryani cravings, filled with tender pulled goat with an accompanying pickle mayo to cut through its richness. Lest you forget about its innovative cocktail list, go for the Sweet Assassin, an eclectic blend of tequila reposado with homemade kesar kasturi, a highly prized Indian saffron for a light floral aroma.
Barood, 56A Tras Street, 2/F, S(078977)
5. Nobu
Above Weekend brunch at Nobu
Weekend brunch at Nobu
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Nobu is famed all over the world with its eclectic blend of premium Japanese ingredients with vibrant Peruvian flavours, which is delivered here in Singapore by executive chef Hideki Maeda. You’ll see this happy marriage in dishes like the tuna sashimi served with guacamole and dry miso, merging the best of Japanese sashimi with Peruvian influences. The F1 Japanese ribeye steak is another highlight, done in a Peruvian anticucho style of skewered meat. Tacos are a must have, blending this Peruvian classic with pristine Japanese tuna or salmon, as is the shrimp and lobster, served in a spicy lemon sauce that brings the zest of Peru to the table.
Read more: Nobu Opens at Four Seasons Singapore: Here’s What to Expect
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About
Ethan is a dining writer with Tatler Singapore. Trained in literary arts and filmmaking, their work has previously been published in Esquire Singapore, Men's Folio, and with the Asian Film Archive and the Singapore International and Film Festival, across a wide range of interests from gastronomy to fashion and arts criticism.
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Ethan writes about exciting news in the F&B industry, specialising in fine dining, exclusive spirits launches, and new restaurants. They are always looking for riveting voices to bring something fresh to an already-dynamic industry.
Follow them on Instagram at @faustiangourmand.
