It has been decades since fusion cuisine hit the food scene, and most—if not all—chefs still refuse to be associated with it. Is it really that bad?
The word “fusion” is defined in the dictionary as “the process or result of joining two or more things together to form a single entity.” It is a general term used in science pertaining to a chemical process, or it can also be a word used to describe the blending of more intangible things such as ideologies. However, in the culinary world, when one uses the word “fusion” to describe a cuisine, the reaction is often nothing short of squeamish, sometimes even violent.
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Manila-based chef Josh Boutwood of Helm, Ember, The Test Kitchen and Savage admits that his food is often categorised under fusion, pointing out that his cooking style is not representative of a single culture (“For instance, I don’t have an Italian restaurant”), and yet he says the word “fusion” is “cringe-y.” Boutwood explains: "It gives this nostalgic memory of the nineties or early 2000s TV chefs that really coined the word ‘fusion’ where they took multiple cuisines and combined it into one. I feel like that term fusion did more damage than good.” Classically-trained chef Aaron Isip—who recently launched his private dining Balai Palma that offers, among others, his ode to the seafood tower on a bed of sinigang-flavoured ice—tends to agree, saying the word was “misused.” He holds chefs worldwide accountable for “ghastly, unnatural combinations of flavours that don’t really work together—from Asia and Europe—just to say it is ‘fusion’.”
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