“In 2016, we were the first to serve edomae-style tempura, which keeps things simple and puts the focus on the quality of ingredients,” Chua enthuses. As Ishikawa places the morsels of delicate tempura on the thin sheets of paper that top each serving plate, no visible oil drippings appear below. 

“This is due to the quality of oil used, which also prevents the tempura from tasting oily,” Chua elaborates. “Furthermore, a new tin of oil is used for each batch of tempura before being discarded.” The restaurant goes as far as changing the oil between the two dinner seatings, ensuring each guest is served with a dishes fried from a new batch of oil.

See also: How one man is carrying his family's mooncake legacy on his shoulders

While many associate frying with indulgence, Tenshin’s tempura is only lightly battered and fragrant, attributed to the fresh oil. “A special blend of oils are used, which are heated to a specific temperature,” Ishikawa explains. The seasoned chef is recognised for his talent in controlling the temperature of the oil, which is vital to achieving a crisp coating.

Temperature also plays an important role when it comes to the batter. “Cold water is mixed with the flour alongside egg yolks to achieve an ideal batter,” he continues. Before the water is added, the flour is also strained to remove any larger lumps, ensuring a smooth mixture.

“The batter is important to achieve tempura that is both light and crispy,” quips Ishikawa. The thickness of the batter also has to be controlled, which differs according to the ingredients. “Prawns and vegetables are coated with a thinner layer of batter which has more water, while more substantial ingredients such as anago (salt-water eel) and satsumaimo (Japanese sweet potato) require a thicker coating of batter.”

The aforementioned satsumaimo was a dish served at the previous Ginza Tenkuni, and is one of Ishikawa’s signature dishes. “Even in Japan, only a few restaurants are able to master the art as it is incredibly time consuming and requires a lot of skill,” enthuses Chua. The root vegetable is first flash fried, then kept in the oil to cook at an incredibly low, controlled temperature for one to two hours.

Biting into the sweet potato, the interior is tender and bursts with sweetness, while the exterior is perfectly crisp. “No one in Malaysia has ever mastered this dish, and not many in the world are able to,” Chua says.

With such effort put into the ingredients, batter, and oil, the tempura requires minimal accompaniments. “There are only two ways of consuming tempura—either with salt and lime, or with tentsuyu (dipping sauce with grated radish),” says Chua. 

Ishikawa points towards the bowl of salt that sits beside one filled with lime juice: “We use a special rock salt from Germany that pairs well with the tempura, as it does not overpower the delicate ingredients.” 

Moving on to the second way of enjoying the tempura, Chua chips in: “Every chef has a special blend of tentsuyu—Ishikawa’s recipe is umami-heavy, very rich and salty.” As such, a large sphere of radish is added to the dipping sauce to balance its flavours. “In mass market Japanese restaurants, you may have noticed tempura is served with a big bowl of tentsuyu and a small portion of radish, which is incorrect,” he explains.

Sitting down for a meal at Tenshin, guests begin by selecting from three sets, with only the two larger sets available for dinner. “The meal is a journey from start to end,” Ishikawa quips. “It begins with prawns, which are light on the palate, then we alternate between lighter vegetable courses and heavier seafood courses to balance the meal.”

While ingredients may change seasonally, the experience always ends with anago, satsumaimo, and a rice bowl topped with kakiage, a light and crispy fritter which, at Tenshin, is made with chopped prawns. “Kakiage is another item that is incredibly difficult to make,” Chua says. While typically flat, Ishikawa explains the importance of making it into a curved, bowl-like shape, which lends the fritter airiness and lightness.

Don't miss: 11 of the spiciest dishes you can find in the Klang Valley

Inviting me behind the counter, he demonstrates how he creates the unusual shape, using a sieve and chopsticks to mould the sides of the batter into an ideal form. Served on a bed of rice with a choice of tendon (sweet sauce) or tencha (green tea and bonito stock), Chua tells me that it is often considered the most important course within a tempura omakase, leaving patrons full and satisfied. 

When asked how to determine a tempura chef’s experience and skill, Ishikawa believes prawns are the key. “Prawns typically curl up when fried, so frying them straight takes a lot of skill—even a slight curve is considered subpar,” Chua says. Ishikawa explains how the prawn’s tendons must be gently adjusted by hand, easing the crustacean into a straight line.

While Tenshin’s initial introduction in 2016 may have been premature, Chua is confident in this venture. “There are so many sushi restaurants in Kuala Lumpur now, and the knowledge of quality ingredients has improved,” he smiles. “With tempura, we are introducing another culture of Japan at the highest possible level for guests to experience and appreciate.”

NOW READ

5 viral local food trends that have dominated social media

Breakfast buffets worth waking up for

The best bottled coffee in the Klang Valley