Cover Seong Ying Chai now rests in the capable hands of Leonard Lee, third generation mooncake artisan (Photo: Imran Sulaiman)

The art of making traditional Chinese pastries has been passed down for three generations in Leonard Lee’s family

Founded by Lee Nyuk Soo, Seong Ying Chai was originally a Cantonese restaurant but influence from relatives in Hong Kong resulted in the Lee family venturing into the mooncake business. Specialising in Han pastries, traditional Chinese baked goods stemming from the Han dynasty, the establishment is now run by Leonard Lee, Nyuk Soo's grandson.

Loke Poh Lin, a close family friend, greets us as we arrive at the store, which is located in an alley off Jalan Sultan in Chinatown. “This is the original site where Leonard’s grandparents used to make mooncakes. It's been here since 1935,” says Loke.

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Leonard appears from the kitchen, wearing his signature brown cap and dusting flour off his apron. Holding up a basket of intricate pig-shaped biscuits, Lee beams proudly.

"Look at how all of their expressions are different and the detail in each eyebrow and snout. My father crafted all of these individually late at night; the ones with sleepier expressions are because he was tired," he jokes.

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Photo 1 of 4 Seong Ying Chai is in a discreet location in Chinatown
Photo 2 of 4 Festive lanterns hang outside the store front, in anticipation of Mid-Autumn Festival
Photo 3 of 4 Traditional mooncake moulds decorate the interior of Seong Ying Chai
Photo 4 of 4 Seong Ying Chai's kitchen, where Lee and assistant Tan Geok Har craft mooncakes

He pushes aside a folding wooden partition to reveal the kitchen. Large metal tables span the area, covered with colourful varieties of mooncake dough, paste and salted egg yolks. Leonard crafts over 15 types of mooncakes and biscuits at the establishment, which range from crystal skin and baked mooncakes to traditional animal-shaped biscuits.

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Photo 1 of 2 Leonard brushes mooncakes with egg wash prior to baking
Photo 2 of 2 Pandan crystal skin mooncakes

Leonard is eager to show us the process of making the impressive ‘seven wonder’ mooncake, which contains seven yolks. Wrapping the lotus-covered yolks with a layer of skin in a twisting hand movement, Leonard presses the parcel into a mooncake mould, hitting it on the table rhythmically before popping the massive embossed mooncake out. 

Each year, the 44-year-old searches for a unique mould for the Mid-Autumn Festival. Though one would think Leonard would be satisfied with the decades of experience he has under his belt, his quest to learn new techniques from other artisans has brought him to Hong Kong, China and Singapore. 

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Photo 1 of 2 A traditional koi-shaped biscuit, which is made every Mid-Autumn Festival
Photo 2 of 2 Traditional mooncake moulds, most of which are older than Leonard

Before we leave, Leonard insists that I try my hand at shaping a koi-shaped biscuit, made with a golden syrup that ferments for a year. He is a patient teacher, explaining each step of the process encouragingly. When not making mooncakes, Leonard gives back to the community by conducting workshops on how to craft Chinese pastries, and in the process, ensuring the art is passed down to the next generation. 

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Credits

Photography  

Emran Shaqif

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