What makes a good taco, we asked. The easy-going chef admits he had very limited knowledge of Mexican food before he started researching during the pandemic, but after his crash course, he has a definitive answer. “It is really all about the tortilla,” he answers. They use yellow corn kernels cooked in an alkaline solution that is then soaked overnight. What this produces is called nixtamal which is then ground up and made into masa, later on flattened and made into tortilla. Curitana says that he checks the quality of the tortilla throughout different stages of its production, as well as periodically during service. “I have realised that the proteins and vegetables you put in the taco can be very simple,” Curitana explains. “Very straightforward, there is no need for complicated recipes or premium ingredients. The salsas also—I only have four salsas on rotation, depending on the protein or vegetable used in the taco. But, when the tortilla is no good or if the quality has deteriorated, then I might as well not serve tacos that day.”

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Not that he is throwing away stale tortillas, not in this economy. Curitana deems them still good enough to be fried into chips, perfect for scooping up his much-talked-about ceviche. The white fish is presented in a pool of leche de tigre dotted with cilantro oil and topped with roasted nuts and pickled cucumber. Curitana has replaced the inconsistently available Hass avocados with grilled edamame which actually gives it lovely texture as well as nuanced sweetness. The same fried tortillas are used as the sturdy base for tostadas which come heaping with seared shrimps or tuna ceviche.

Past-its-prime tortilla is still perfect for birria tacos, too, which is pan-fried in oil cradling tender and juicy beef brisket, cooked until all that flavour is sealed into a golden, crispy crust. It was good then, when customers used to have it picked up or delivered, perhaps slightly altered by the ride from Curitana’s kitchen to its destination. So having it now, freshly cooked and with a couple of years worth of experience in the bag—one can tell that the birria tacos, which are the driving force behind this operation, have definitely come into its golden age.

The freshest tortillas are saved for Curitana’s soft tacos. When asked about his favourites, he launches into his declaration of love for all things charred. “Grilling or searing just gives food so much character,” he swoons. “When meat or vegetables have that smokiness or that crunch where fire touches it.” I had to ask him to repeat what he said when he confessed that burnt cabbage topped with salsa macha is currently his favourite taco on the menu. Although initially repulsed, I eventually understood the allure, what with the charring of the vegetable drawing out its sweetness and imparting a pleasant smokiness to the dish. And, yes, the tortilla was sturdy, soft, and faintly flavoured. It was perfect.

Curitana is simply getting started— he shares that the menu will be constantly evolving. As he explores the possibilities of his cuisine, both longtime fans and new followers are happy that he has dropped anchor at his Makati “pop-up.”

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