While not quite ready to let go of the bestsellers at the once-popular Legaspi Village eatery, chef Patrick Go has taken on the task of slowly and surely updating its Asian fusion menu.

No teasers on social media, and definitely no hyped-up re-launch to announce the changing of the guards. For months now, chef Patrick Go (Black Sheep, Guchugang, Dripp) has been unassumingly going about the business of breathing new life into Your Local, the eight-year-old establishment that could possibly have been responsible for recalibrating our feelings toward Asian fusion. It was all the rage for the first couple of years when it opened, the place to be for millennials to fashionably consume bowls of torched salmon donburi, opulent plates of lamb rendang, or heftily-packed baos. For now, the buzz has grown eerily quiet, which is no cause for concern in Go's opinion.

“Slowly and surely” is the thirty-something chef’s plan of attack in getting diners to revisit their old haunt and enticing new customers to try the new flavours on offer. Go admits to having listened to diners and is agreeable to giving them what they want. “Based on the comments we received, many thought that the flavours of the old dishes were ‘too strong,’” he explains. “Right now, I just want to update the menu and realign it with the times. I want the new dishes to have more approachable flavours.”

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Tatler Asia

Tastless Group’s fearless leader and “head taste tester” Charles Paw felt that Go was a good fit for Your Local because he is comfortable “playing with different flavours” and due to his “familiarity with Southeast Asian cuisine.” Paw first met Go when he was looking for young and upcoming chefs to become his chef partners at The Grid Food Market at Powerplant Mall— probably the most successful food hall to date known for its line-up of unique food concepts backed by commendable local talents. Go is responsible for premium Korean comfort food stall Gochugang, the recently opened soft-serve ice cream stall Dripp, and a couple of ghost kitchen concepts.

While Go admits to being in awe of Paw’s very hands-on approach to his food businesses despite it being just a fraction of his portfolio, the entrepreneur shares why he has entrusted the chef with a good number of their concepts. “Working with Pat is a joy because he is so hardworking and creative,” says Paw, “and he understands the business side of opening a restaurant.”

Despite being a creative force, Go’s boldness is tempered by an awareness of an ever-changing market in a highly volatile industry, as well as the need to strike a balance between artistry and commerce. “I really am not hesitant to change the concept,” Go reveals, “but it’s also very tricky. [We are] updating the flavours of the dishes and making them more approachable, [while] the market now is more knowledgable. So, I have to be able to align with the market while still getting to express myself.”

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This stability, balance, and open-mindedness come as no surprise to restauranteur Raphael Cruz who plucked Go from a densely talented lineup when he and his partners decided to re-conceptualise the now-defunct Black Sheep in BGC, moving into a smaller, nondescript space with a more approachable modern Chinese-Filipino concept in Makati. When asked why he and his partners picked Go, he replies: “I saw he had the potential, he just needed to explore it more. I highly encouraged him to do so. But, it was mostly his untapped creative potential at the time and his drive, yearning for a fresh start on his own. So, we knew he was open to ideas and could be flexible in developing new concepts and trying his hand at different cuisines.”

Sadly, the second rendition of Back Sheep did not catch on as they had hoped, and Go has always been open about the immense pain and trauma the closing of his first restaurant caused him. Years have passed since then, and the gaping wound that Black Sheep left is now merely a faint scar. Perhaps this has permanently changed Go’s approach to life and business, opting to do things with careful intention.

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Tatler Asia

At Your Local, he releases new dishes weekly, food that he describes as “fun and playful Asian fusion.” Times have changed, and “fusion” is not the spine-tingling word it used to be when “authentic” was the buzzword.

Here, Go can get frisky with dishes such as a chashu-topped, mentaiko-studded brown butter udon that is outlandish yet oddly comforting. He offers accessible bar chow like truffle mayo fries and spicy tuna sashimi served with a giant kropek to accompany drinks at happy hour. Go does right by vegetarians with his roasted cauliflower curry accompanied by fragrant rice, the richness of the sauce balanced with strands of pickled onions and fresh cilantro. He entices the office crowd to come more often with affordable options such as a spam misubi rice bowl topped with a soft egg and sriracha mayo. The only dish he probably refused to mess around with was a beautiful prawn toast fried until crisp and made to luxuriate in a pool of sweet chili sauce.

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The timing now feels right— not only for Go, but also for a once golden concept that had lost its luster. Your Local is surely going to benefit from a Patrick Go that bided his time, testing dishes at pop-ups, and harnessing his creativity by producing different Asian food concepts one after another.

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