Cover Trio of snacks at Willow by head chef Nicolas Tam, who has shared his strong opinions about food below (Photo: Willow)
Trio of snacks at Willow by head chef Nicolas Tam, who has shared his strong opinions about food below (Photo: Willow)
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From no cream in carbonara to Malaysian bak kut teh over the Singaporean version, here are some hot takes from Singapore’s top chefs
In Singapore, the most seemingly innocuous opinions about food can trigger an online war—between family and friends, between compatriots, and sometimes between us and our neighbour, Malaysia. It’s a city where everyone has an opinion about food—not least the chefs who make the dining scene as vibrant as it is.
As it stands, we’re fascinated to find out exactly what riles up the masterminds behind some of the best kitchens in Singapore, so we asked them all about their strong opinions about food, from a certain way a dish should be prepared to unexpected flavour combinations. Who knows? Hill to die on or not, you might vehemently disagree with these opinions, or they just might sway your own convictions.
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1. Drew Nocente
Above Chef Drew Nocente has strong opinions about carbonara (Photo: Getty Images)
Chef Drew Nocente has strong opinions about carbonara (Photo: Getty Images)
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Drew Nocente, managing director of Cenzo
“As a chef, the biggest thing that pisses me off is when people add cream and mushroom and God knows what else to traditional carbonara. The beauty of carbonara lies in its simplicity, with just eggs, pecorino cheese, guanciale, and black pepper coming together to create a rich and flavourful sauce. Adding cream and the rest not only alters the taste and texture, but it also goes against the traditional recipe.
As a chef of an Italian restaurant, I take pride in honouring the authenticity of classic dishes and preserving their true essence. When cream is added to carbonara, it not only disappoints me (because that’s the lazy/shortcut way to getting ‘creaminess’) but also takes away from the original flavours and heritage of this beloved dish. While I appreciate that there are some modern interpretations of the dish, it should not compromise on the flavour of the original recipe.”
Cenzo
Address: 81 Club Street, S(069449), +65 9155 8374
2. Kenjiro ‘Hatch’ Hashida
Above Crab, cheese, and caviar snack at Hashida Singapore by Kenjiro ‘Hatch’ Hashida, whose strong opinion is that labelling culinary styles is unnecessary
Crab, cheese, and caviar snack at Hashida Singapore by Kenjiro ‘Hatch’ Hashida, whose strong opinion is that labelling culinary styles is unnecessary
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Kenjiro “Hatch” Hashida, chef-owner of Hashida
“I think labelling culinary styles is unnecessary because it limits imagination. In my case, it’s about what is considered traditional sushi, and what makes a traditional sushi chef.
A lot of the time, if the dishes we create and serve defy customers’ expectations, they categorise it as ‘fusion’, or ‘innovative’ cuisine. I disagree with that. At Hashida, our recipes, menus, and the team come together as a unique ‘brand’, not as a style of cuisine.
Now is an era in which it’s not about what category someone’s creations fall under, it’s about who is cooking and their creativity, their brand. To me, sushi is art and food is entertainment, and there’s no need to limit creation with the boundaries of convention.”
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3. Nicolas Tam
Above La zhi ji chicken at Willow by Nicolas Tam, whose strong opinion about food is that not every dish needs luxury ingredients or grand presentation to be good
La zhi ji chicken at Willow by Nicolas Tam, whose strong opinion about food is that not every dish needs luxury ingredients or grand presentation to be good
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Nicolas Tam, head chef of Willow
“Not everything needs smoke, caviar, gold and sea urchin to be good.
Of course it’s a spectacle for the dish to be revealed in a dramatic paper ring set on fire, with a last minute spray of gold dust, or a floating soap bubble of smoke being popped on a nigiri with otoro, truffle, caviar, and sea urchin. But I implore diners to taste things before they judge things. Diners should take a moment to appreciate the thought and effort that chefs put into creating their meals.
Chefs dedicate countless hours to perfecting their craft, carefully selecting ingredients, experimenting with flavours and techniques, and striving to deliver an exceptional dining experience.
By recognising and acknowledging the hard work that goes into each dish, diners can cultivate a deeper appreciation for the culinary arts and the individuals behind the scenes who make dining out a special occasion.
To me, the most difficult thing is turning the ordinary into the extraordinary. This creativity and ingenuity showcases the true artistry of cooking and highlights the importance of quality ingredients, thoughtful preparation, and a deep understanding of flavours. Next time you enjoy a ‘simple’ dish, take a moment to appreciate the magic that chefs work with the simplest of ingredients.”
4. Kirk Westaway
Above Executive chef Kirk Westaway’s strong opinion about food is that Malaysian bak kut teh is better than Singapore’s version (Photo: Getty Images)
Executive chef Kirk Westaway’s strong opinion about food is that Malaysian bak kut teh is better than Singapore’s version (Photo: Getty Images)
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Kirk Westaway, executive chef of Jaan by Kirk Westaway
“Having lived in Singapore for over 12 years, I can attest to the passionate devotion both Singapore and Malaysia have for their beloved local dishes.
That’s why some may beg to differ with this opinion. I personally prefer the black herbal version of bak kut teh to the traditional white pepper version. While the latter is known and loved for its robust peppery flavour and is a popular Singaporean staple, I find the Malaysian version with black herbal broth has more complexity and depth to it. The dark broth is infused with a variety of Chinese herbs such as angelica root, cinnamon, star anise, and goji berries, creating a nuanced dish that is both earthy and slightly sweet. To me, the broth feels like a nourishing tonic.”
5. Damian D’Silva
Above Chef-owner Damian D’Silva enjoys an unusual flavour combination of sambal belacan, bacon, and durian (Photo: Getty Images)
Chef-owner Damian D’Silva enjoys an unusual flavour combination of sambal belacan, bacon, and durian (Photo: Getty Images)
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Damian D’Silva, chef-owner of Rempapa
“I discovered an unusual snack when I was a teenager. Granddad loved to eat durians cold, and would refrigerate the flesh for a day. Then, he would plate some hot rice, mix in sambal belacan, and top with cold durian. I don’t like pairing contrasting temperatures, but watching Granddad relish each mouthful inspired a brilliant yet strange idea. One of my favourite breakfast combinations then was a sambal belacan and bacon sandwich. Giddily, I thought: what if I add durian?
It was the first time I tasted something that made me so happy I almost cried. The combination of sambal belacan, bacon, and durian slathered on toast is God’s gift to me. That’s just one of my food opinions!”
About
Ethan is a dining writer with Tatler Singapore. Trained in literary arts and filmmaking, their work has previously been published in Esquire Singapore, Men's Folio, and with the Asian Film Archive and the Singapore International and Film Festival, across a wide range of interests from gastronomy to fashion and arts criticism.
Work
Ethan writes about exciting news in the F&B industry, specialising in fine dining, exclusive spirits launches, and new restaurants. They are always looking for riveting voices to bring something fresh to an already-dynamic industry.
Follow them on Instagram at @faustiangourmand.
