Singaporean chef and curry puff lover Willin Low (Photo: Willin Low)
Cover Singaporean chef and curry puff lover Willin Low (Photo: Willin Low)
Singaporean chef and curry puff lover Willin Low (Photo: Willin Low)

The prolific Singaporean chef talks about his affinity with curry puffs and shares his go-to spots for the old-school snack

“It was love at first bite,” recalls Willin Low when he sank his teeth into a curry puff when he was five. While most kids might be discouraged by the heat and spice, young Willin embraced these flavours. Little did he know that this humble snack would soon develop his penchant for spicy food today.

At the tender age of seven, Low’s favourite part of the day was following his mother to their favourite curry puff stall in Joo Chiat. Ran by an elderly lady and her daughter, the stall was often action-packed and the inquisitive young Low would watch like a hawk. Every meticulous step ran like clockwork from rolling out the dough, filling it with curried potatoes, and crimping the edges before finally slipping it in hot oil.

Back home, Low would put his memory to the test and practised the crimping technique on Playdough. Explaining his love for curry puffs when he caught up with Tatler Dining, the chef icon reveals, “Till today, I can crimp curry puff edges you know”.

Read more: 12 food spots to check off your eat list along East Coast Road

What makes the perfect curry puff?

Low declares: “The perfect curry puff needs to have a crust that is so good that you can eat it on its own without any filling. It should be fragrant, crumbly—crunchy even, if it’s the Malay version of epok epok—and slightly savoury. Next, the filling. It has to have a bit of a fiery kick but not too much—just enough to make it interesting but not render sweat dripping down one’s forehead. The paste must offer good curry flavours derived from spices rather than just relying on sambal. The potatoes have to be soft and discernible chicken meat will be a bonus, enhancing flavour and texture.”

Read more: The best Hainanese curry rice in Singapore, according to local chefs

Low is renowned for his modern Singaporean creations, and he too has reimagined the curry puff on two occasions: the first being the cheeky deep-fried ravioli with stuffing of curried potatoes and cheese, and the other being the crispy cannoli filled with minced curried chicken and textures of curried potato foam.

When asked about his favourite curry puff haunts at present, Low shares that two of his favourite stalls have since shuttered. The first was the stall he grew up eating at in Joo Chiat and the second was Katong Curry Puff which “very interestingly used milk powder instead of coconut milk” in making their puffs. But all’s not lost as some stalwarts are still carrying the torch. These are Willin Low’s favourite old-school curry puffs in Singapore, in no particular order.

1. Fong’s Dee Curry Puff

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Fong’s Dee Curry Puff (Photo: Instagram / @willcookwilleat)
Above Fong’s Dee Curry Puff (Photo: Instagram / @willcookwilleat)
Fong’s Dee Curry Puff (Photo: Instagram / @willcookwilleat)

Owner Kok Meng Teck has spent the past 40 years hand-making curry puffs fresh every day so it is no wonder some would lay claim that he is one of the best in the West. Tucked away in the Clementi 448 Market and Food Centre, the curry puffs by Fong’s Dee exude rustic charm. “This is the style of curry puffs I grew up eating—the last of the Mohicans, if I may. The shell is crumbly, stuffed with ample filling that packs a ton of flavour,” exclaims Low. “Whenever I am in the area, I will buy five!”


Fong’s Dee Curry Puff

Address:  Address: 448 Clementi Avenue 3, Clementi 448 Market & Food Centre, #01-31, S(120448)
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2. Tanglin Crispy Curry Puff Original

Chinatown
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Tanglin Crispy Curry Puff Original (Photo: Instagram / @chuanyeo)
Above Tanglin Crispy Curry Puff Original (Photo: Instagram / @chuanyeo)
Tanglin Crispy Curry Puff Original (Photo: Instagram / @chuanyeo)

Before the family feud fed national headlines, Tanglin Crispy Curry Puff was widely considered one of the best curry puffs in Singapore at the turn of the millennium. Today, while the second-generation sibling rivalry led to having two opposing stalls within arms reach, curry puff fans are only spoilt for choice. “While there are two stalls, and both are tasty, but if I had to choose, I’d prefer the corner stall,” shares Low. “The puff sports a thinner crust, unlike the doughier version I grew up eating, while the generous filling is always packed to the brim.”

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Tanglin Crispy Curry Puff Original

Address:  531A Upper Cross Street, Hong Lim Market & Food Centre, #02-36, S(051531)
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3. J2 Famous Crispy Curry Puff

Tanjong Pagar
Tatler Asia
J2 Famous Crispy Curry Puff (Photo: Instagram / @xinxuanyang22)
Above J2 Famous Crispy Curry Puff (Photo: Instagram / @xinxuanyang22)
J2 Famous Crispy Curry Puff (Photo: Instagram / @xinxuanyang22)

Owner Lee Meng Li started selling his famous flaky puffs in 2007, which garnered him recognition from the Michelin Bib Gourmand as well as a cult following that still exists today. “The crust is extremely flaky rather than doughy. I sometimes consume more sardine puffs than the original curry chicken puff,” says Low. And rightfully so, as they insist on selecting larger sardines to give firmer textures for a better bite. Besides the typical fillings of curry chicken and sardine, Lee also stuffs his puffs with punchy black pepper chicken or the crowd-pleasing velvety orh nee (taro yam paste).


J2 Famous Crispy Curry Puff

Address:  7 Maxwell Road, Amoy Street Food Centre, #01-21, S(069111)
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4. Soon Soon Huat Crispy Curry Puff

Other Areas
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Soon Soon Huat Crispy Curry Puff (Photo: Instagram / @therantingpanda)
Above Soon Soon Huat Crispy Curry Puff (Photo: Instagram / @therantingpanda)
Soon Soon Huat Crispy Curry Puff (Photo: Instagram / @therantingpanda)

“In the ’90s, there was only one place I knew to get spiral curry puffs from and that was 1A Curry Puff at Eunos Crescent,” shares Low. After returning from living overseas for a period of time, Low found out that a former employee had opened a couple of outlets, selling the signature puffs and using the namesake. Low tried but it didn’t taste the same before so he stopped eating it. Today, the original proprietors take on the moniker of Soon Soon Huat operating out of East Coast Road, and is helmed by third-generation owner Mui Lan.

The signature spiral curry puffs and its three-decade legacy continues to delight with its ultra-flaky crust and snail-like spiral design. Besides the classics such as curry chicken, sardine and otah puffs, the owners are open to seasonal novelties such as the durian puff or the custard puff.


Soon Soon Huat Crispy Curry Puff

Address:  220 East Coast Road, S(428917)
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5. Rolina Traditional Hainanese Curry Puffs

Tanjong Pagar
Tatler Asia
Rolina Traditional Hainanese Curry Puffs (Photo: Instagram / @discovertanjongpagar)
Above Rolina Traditional Hainanese Curry Puffs (Photo: Instagram / @discovertanjongpagar)
Rolina Traditional Hainanese Curry Puffs (Photo: Instagram / @discovertanjongpagar)

With third-generation owner Jolene Tham at the helm, the 60-year legacy of the famed Rolina Traditional Hainanese Curry Puff name lives on. From operating out of a pushcart by Novena Church to finding permanence in the Tanjong Pagar Plaza Market and Food Centre, this humble curry puff stall is best known for its ultra-crunchy crust. “The filling really packs a punch too,” adds Low. While the Singaporean chef confesses that he hasn’t been back since the takeover last August, he thinks that if the puffs are anything like the ones before—made by second-generation owner Bren Tham—Rolina’s puffs will still be as good.


Rolina Traditional Hainanese Curry Puffs

Address:  6 Tanjong Pagar Plaza, Tanjong Pagar Plaza Market & Food Centre, #02-15, S(081006)
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