Sea.food by Chele González: Boracay’s Newest Must-Try Restaurant

Chefs Chele González and Jaime Ramos, along with Adviche F&B Solutions’ Cyril Addison, proudly present this “game-changing” restaurant on the Philippines’ most famous island

Quoting from the epic novel War and Peace: “The two most powerful warriors are patience and time.” I cannot assume that Spanish-born chef Chele González is a Tolstoy fan, but I do know that he is an ardent practitioner of taking the long and slow route if it meant getting things right. His latest addition to his portfolio of food and beverage concepts is Sea.food by Chele González, a contemporary fine dining establishment in Aqua Boracay that took five years to come into fruition with the best in the industry at the helm.

While the natural beauty of its Bulabog Beach surroundings needs neither introduction nor much embellishment, González understands the importance of interior design to set the tone for a memorable gastronomic experience. Utilising natural materials like wood, stone, and tile to embody a modern and sophisticated feel and yet with the serenity of its island home, the deliberate and experienced hand of architect and interior designer Eduardo Calma brought these intangibles to life. The space is a study in beach-coloured neutrals like sand, off-whites, and grey livened up by aquatic greens and blues. The textures on the wood panelling and the three-dimensional mirror fixtures make for an interesting play on light and shadow, and we can be sure that the coral-like embellishments yet to be installed on the ceilings will add even more drama.

Photo 1 of 3 Sea.food by Chele González at Aqua Boracay, designed by renowned interior designer Eduardo Calma

Photo 2 of 3 Sea.food by Chele González at Aqua Boracay, designed by renowned interior designer Eduardo Calma

Photo 3 of 3 Sea.food by Chele González at Aqua Boracay, designed by renowned interior designer Eduardo Calma

The contemporary dining room— its versatile look transporting diners anywhere from Miami to Ibiza to Bali— truly reflects the food that González and Sea.food’s chef de cuisine Jaime Ramos wishes to deliver. “Normally, when I travel I get inspired and find new ideas,” González admits. “So, what I did (for Sea.food) was look for the most iconic seafood dishes all around the world. I also do not want to be stuck in one thing— I try to be creative.”

Sea.food by Chele ceviche, tuna tataki & octopus carpaccio

Above Ceviche, tuna tataki, and octopus carpaccio

The adventure usually begins poolside at dusk where an assortment of crudo and fun starters are meant to awaken the taste buds. The kinilaw 2.0 and tuna tataki are light and refreshing, allowing the fresh bounties of the sea to shine through, brightened only by some choice citruses and fresh herbs. With Spaniards in the kitchen, pulpo in varying incarnations is a must. The octopus carpaccio has tender discs of thinly sliced octopus fanned out over a plate flavoured simply with olive oil, lemon, capers, and flecks of parmesan. The octopus satay will catch fans of the grilled skewers off-guard expecting chicken, yet that classic peanut sauce done impeccably well will convert even the hardiest of purists.

Above Octopus satay

Above Gambas ala ajillo

If a light supper is on the itinerary, then a celebratory spread of their appetisers will not disappoint. Everything is good— from the coconut tempura with wasabi mayo and nori stripes to classic gambas al ajillo, to the perfect seafood croquetas done properly with the creamiest béchamel. Those craving greens can either go bold with the sweet chili crab salad or pick the herbaceous Scandinavian flavours of the smoked salmon salad with the acidity of apple cider vinegar tempered by fragrant dill.

Above Seafood croquetas

Sea.food by Chele cebu lechon fried rice

Above Cebu lechon fried rice

As expected of González, there are many showstoppers at Sea.food and they come in the form of mains to share. You might be shocked to see a sweet and sour lapu-lapu on the menu, but González’s version is more citrusy than sweet; deboned, sliced criss-cross without detaching from the skin, then dredged in flour before deep-frying until crispy outside but still soft and moist inside. If you must have some meat, then the lechon rice pairs perfectly with this, aromatic with lemongrass and decadent with thick slices of crispy pork belly. González is known for his clean flavours and fans would be happy to find a grilled lobster adorned simply with lemon butter sauce and parsley oil, as well as their catch of the day prepared Basque-style, butterflied and baked with olive oil, vinegar, and garlic. It comes with thinly sliced potatoes that absorb all that delicious sauce. For fans of the starch, I am happy to report that I did not encounter a single potato dish on the menu that left me disappointed.

Above Seafood paella

Special mention goes to Madrileño chef Ramos’ seafood paella that González is truly proud of and is happy to showcase, not only for its stunning presentation (“I told Jaime it’s like he’s plating a degustacion dish!”) but for the authentic flavours that Ramos insisted on delivering. The clams and prawns are cooked just enough to retain their natural moisture, and the rice is flavoured intensely with rich broth and spices, enhanced by the addicting bite of socarrat. An amazing dish, arguably the best on the island and can surely stand up to paellas everywhere.

Above Banana split

Above Cocktails from Sea.food by Chele González

Above A refreshing glass of wine to accompany the seafood-focused menu

The sublime dining experience is all tied together by a beverage program and front-of-house service designed and executed by Cyril Addison, González’s business partner in Adviche F&B Solutions. Addison has put together a wine list made distinct by unique white wine varietals, beach-friendly rosés, as well as sparkling wines and Champagnes that simply pair so well with their food. The seasoned consultant tapped the innovative minds of illustrious duo David Ong and Jericson Co of the award-winning bar The Curator to rustle up cocktails that are both interesting and highly drinkable. Giann Devino, a veteran member of the popular Makati bar, will be flying to Boracay on a regular basis to train the Aqua beverage team.

Time and patience have definitely been both defenders and friends to Sea.food, allowing its team breathing room to carefully implement all the fine details—from the moment the guests lay their eyes on the elegant decor to their final sigh of satisfaction upon polishing off their desserts. González, Ramos, and the rest of the team have given us a taste of the fruits of their labour, and while calling them “world-class” might seem indolent, there really is no other more fitting description for the experience that awaits guests at Sea.food.

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Topics

Chele Gonzalez Cyril Addison Boracay Seafood Restaurant New Restaurant Jaime Ramos Aqua Boracay

Tatler Asia

New Restaurant Alert: Sea.food by Chele González at Aqua Boracay