Why are these restaurants doing collaborations? We ask the people behind Automat, Ayà, and Taquería Franco about the collaborative series that they launched and why it has become an important part of what they do
The local restaurant industry has seen some unprecedented growth over the past years, and even more so as of late. In fact, there seems to be a general sense of well-being and eagerness in the air. Erin Recto—partner, operations director, and sommelier at Hapag and Ayà—tends to agree. “It is so exciting to be in the creative industry in the Philippines,” she confesses. “We are blessed to be in the industry at a time where the bonds between creatives are more supportive and stronger than ever, and everyone has the same goal of reaching new heights for the Philippines’ creative industry.”
An industry leader once admitted that things were much different for them in the past, when restauranteurs and chefs were less willing to collaborate with each other—from suppliers to employment leads to survival tactics. Collaborations between chefs are not uncommon, but now some restaurants even have cross-industry partnerships with friends who are in other creative fields. The rise of the collab series is here, with more restaurants launching uniquely branded event pop-ups hosting peers from different restaurants and industries altogether.
Why is this important? “From the very start, we set out to collaborate with as much people as we can,” admits RJ Galang who, along with cousin chef Miko Calo, and husband and wife Toogy and Laveena Clavecilla, own and operate French-style taco place Taquería Franco which, in itself, is a collaboration among friends. “We think that collaboration is important because creating new, unique, and interesting stuff is important and a way to do that is to have people from different fields, experiences, and points of view work together. By collaborating with our friends, we also grow and learn from each other.”
The team at Taquería Franco launched Friends of Franco and Friends, a series of pop-ups that encourage creatives from all fields to join forces over food. It all started when Galang worked with his friend Dante Dizon of 13 Lucky Monkey to design the restaurant’s logo. Friends of Franco and Friends truly kicked off with their first kitchen collaboration with chefs Nicco Santos and Quenee Vilar (formerly of Aurora) and the soon-to-open Celera. Using Franco’s signature buckwheat tortilla, they created the widely popular chicken krapow taco. Galang shared that we can expect future team-ups with non-dining related players (also within the creative space) to develop either a new piece for sale or a special dish.
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In turn, Ayà’s collaborative series called Inaya was launched with their inaugural collaboration featuring chef Ross Magnaye of Serai, which was not a first for Ayà, and Hapag chefs Thirdy Dolatre and Kevin Navoa. Recto described this as a “playful collaboration among friends” and was a fitting way to set the tone for the series.
The restaurant kitchen is known to be an intense and often toxic environment, and now chefs see the value in promoting a more positive and convivial vibe for themselves and the rest of their team. “I think that at the end of the day, we all go out—chefs and patrons alike—to enjoy good food and have good fun. That’s the primary reason why we all go out I think,” chimes in chef Stephan Duhesme of Metiz and fine casual concept Automat who, with chef Arlo Gregorio, recently launched their own collaborative pop-up series called Atbp. “I consider these events to be less about us—we have the regular restaurant for that—and more about creating off-menu items with slightly wilder ideas. It’s not really about being perfect. It’s about trying things while having good fun in the process, plus connecting chefs and guests together,” Duhesme expounds.
The Atbp series at Automat evokes a house party atmosphere that has chefs serving guests at different stations. Diners can approach the booth and have their menu marked after their dish is served, and in between they can grab some of Ronjob Sanchez’s dangerously drinkable libations or pour themselves a beer on tap. Their first pop-up was with chef Patrick Keith Curitana of Los Tacos followed by innovations on tapas with chef Carlos Garcia of The Black Pig. As of this writing, the last one for the year is coming up with chef Chris Lansang who worked with them at Metiz.
While these events add a lot more work onto their plates, the many stresses that come with every pop-up—to them, it’s extremely worth it. Collaboration means forging deeper friendships and indulging in a fruitful exchange of ideas. It’s a chance for the chefs to get out of the monotony of their day-to-day, deliver something new to diners, and create some buzz about their restaurants too. “We actually enjoy these events as a way to break routine and have fun with our industry friends and guests,” Duhesme confesses. “It allows us to break down barriers with guests and get to know them a little better. We consider these events to be moments of respite from our usual busy schedules. We also consider it important to have chefs come over—like mini industry nights! It’s about friends cooking for friends. We want this to be a safe space. There’s no judgement, there’s no ego.”
It also gives these creatives a chance to expand their circles, and as a result, expose them to new ideas and concepts that perhaps they would not have been privy to otherwise. “Coming from advertising myself, I’ve always known that creative people—at least the ones I worked with—like working together and sharing ideas to create grander ideas,” Galang says. “I’m glad to say that I’ve learned that the same ideals exist in the F&B industry. We’ve had chefs ask us when their turn is and that shows me that the spirit of collaboration and sharing is alive and healthy, if not thriving, in Manila’s food and beverage scene.”
The Hapag and Ayà team feels the same way and will soon team up with La Union ceramist Jose Solon Perfecto for a cross-industry meeting of the minds. Recto says: “Events like these are not only fun, but they are also great learning experiences. Collaborations allow us not only to learn from our peers but it also allows us to think on our feet. Collabs usually last only for a day or two and we have to be quick with adjusting to make sure that we give the best in every collab.”
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With the collab series trend clearly on an upward trajectory, the dining scene is more buzzy than ever. When asked what their dream collaborations are, Galang envisions Taquería Franco working with a clothing brand. “A local brand would be ideal,” he says. Recto also hopes for more team-ups outside the kitchen, perhaps with artists such as what they did at Hapag with national artist Justin Nuyda and musicians Leanne and Zsaris. But, at the end of the day, it’s about spreading good vibes within the industry and beyond. “All collaborations have been a dream, to be honest,” Duhesme candidly imparts. “We always pick people with whom we know we’ll get along with during these events. Like I said, it’s not about ego. It’s a bunch of friends cooking for a bunch of friends.”
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