Food lover’s guide to Barcelona: Where and what to eat when you visit

A famous tapas bar with exceptional service and quality eats to back up the hype

Found just a stone’s throw away from Barcelona’s notorious La Rambla street, Bar Cañete proves some tourist hotspots are still worth visiting. Covered in bright lights and loud decor (a sign that reads “Fuck your diet” is one of the first things you’ll see in the restaurant), Cañete naturally invites a festive atmosphere, while maintaining tradition. The waitstaff is remarkably professional, and can confidently recite the menu back-to-front in their pristine white jackets, but are also some of the most entertaining and personable hosts you’ll meet. In fact, upon finishing a bottle of wine, they’ll hand you a marker so you can sign the label, and the bottle will be displayed on their wall alongside those signed by their previous guests (a star-studded list that, by the way, includes the likes of Leonadro DiCaprio).

What to order: the tender spicy pulpo tentacle, squid sandwich (which many hail as the best in Barcelona), aged beef steak with pan-seared foie gras and struggle sauce, Valrhona chocolate coulant, and torrijas (Spanish-style Frech toast) with sweet wine.

Tatler Tip: if dining solo or in pairs, snag a seat by the counter for the most immersive experience. Alternatively, there is a room through the kitchen with comfortable seats and banquettes perfect for larger groups.

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A dreamy burger, top-tier patatas bravas, with delicious drinks to boot

Sandwiches may not be the first thing that springs to mind when you think of a bar, but Bar Torpedo’s got some of the best in town. In search of a place to unwind and feast after a long night of service, chef Rafa Peña of Gresca restaurant decided to take matters into his own hands. Alas, Peña opened this late-night drinking den, located just a five-minute walk from Gresca, offering straightforward comfort food made with quality ingredients. While the beef tongue pastrami bikini is a popular pick, you can’t go wrong with their classic burger—the 60-day-aged patty boasts just enough character that would go perfectly with their extensive collection of natural wines or craft beer. 

What to order: the classic torpedo burger with a side of their tasty patatas bravas, which deserves praise all on its own. Still hungry? The KFC, which stands for Kentucky Fried Guatlla (quail) is another common favourite.

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A historic standing-only tapas bar specialising in quality conservas

No Barcelona bucket list is complete without Quimet & Quimet. This standing-room-only tapas bar has been in operation since 1914, originating as a wine shop for the founder’s homemade wine. Fast forward 110 years, and the quaint space is now helmed by the fifth-generation Pérez family, offering a range of tapas and montaditos or small open-faced sandwiches. The walls are lined with a range of canned conservas (canned and tinned goods, their speciality), as well as wines and other alcoholic beverages, including their very own beer and vermouth.

Like many storied establishments that have maintained their old-world charm (you can practically hear its age from the way its tall wooden doors squeak open), there’s an organised chaos to their operations: the host ushers guests into the shop and spreads them across the bar, counters, and two small tables, then hurriedly takes orders and yells them out to the chefs in a seemingly haphazard manner, yet she manages to ensure everyone gets exactly what they ordered. It’s almost as if Quimet & Quimet has its own language, one we are not privy to but have the honour of witnessing nonetheless.

What to order: you can’t really go wrong here, and everything is served in petite sizes so order whatever catches your eye. However, the anchoas con piquillo (anchovy and red pepper) and salmón, yogurt, y miel trufada (salmon, yogurt, and truffle honey) montaditos are a must.

Tatler Tip: arrive at Quimet & Quimet around 10 minutes before they open as this popular tapas bar always has a line, and bring a bag with you so you can take home some conservas and drinks.

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A market-dictated menu loved by chefs and foodies alike

Of the nine days we spent in Barcelona, our lunch at Ultramarinos Marín was perhaps the most memorable. While the back of the space offers a cosier, more modern ambience and houses the asador, the front of the restaurant feels like a cross between a diner and a deli—the left wall is lined with various delicacies, including pickles and preserves you’ll find on the menu, while the right is occupied by the open kitchen and counter. Here, each chef juggles many duties throughout the course of service: guiding guests through the menu (which is exclusively in Catalan, so you ought to listen closely), taking orders, yelling them across the room, and of course manning their respective cooking stations, all while maintaining friendly banter.

But what its regulars really come back for (chefs included) is the food. Nothing on the menu is overcomplicated—rather, they showcase one hero ingredient, each of the highest quality, cooked and treated with simple techniques. Although their dishes change daily (you’ll see a fresh new date sticker on every printout), you can easily identify different sections of the menu, including the a la planxa (grilled items) and d’el asador (roasts). The restaurant is constantly abuzz with the sounds of chopping, sizzling, endless chatter, and the “oohs” and “ahhs” from every guest indulging in some of life’s simplest pleasures.

What to order: though the menu changes daily, keep an eye out for the sepia (cuttlefish) and gamba vermella (red prawn) off the planxa, as well as the delectable sweetbreads from the asador with a charred, crisp exterior and creamy centre. Do not underestimate simple picks like the patata (potato), either—these humble dishes are a true testament to the chefs's technical expertise and quality ingredients.

Tatler Tip: secure seats at the counter for the most unique dining experience, perfect for curious foodies and those dining in pairs. Even when dining solo, the counter at Ultramarinos Marín ensures you’re in for an entertaining meal.

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A charming restaurant in the Gràcia district with dishes both comforting and unexpected

Owned and run by two friends, chefs Pedro Baño and Paco Benítez, Fonda Pepa offers hearty dishes heavily influenced by seasonal produce and Catalan cuisine, accented by some Latin American inflexions, too. Dining at Fonda Pepa feels like being welcomed into someone’s home: the hospitality is warm and friendly, and the ambience is cosier than most, especially when opting for a table in the courtyard out the back of the restaurant. Its natural charm and approachable nature make it well-suited for everything from date nights to family dinners or a lively get-together with friends, though we do think you’re better off dining in groups—the plates are small but primed for sharing, and every dish was a hit. Plus, they’ve got an excellent selection of natural Catalan wines by the bottle.

What to order: for a truly comforting Catalan meal, savour their special stew of the day and arroz à la presse. After something a bit more indulgent? Consider the gnocchi with beurre blanc, serrat cheese, and caviar, or the foie terrine with hibiscus and lemon. Their speciality taco—which, on our visit, comprised of Wagyu brisket and salsa tatemada—is a wink at Benítez’s Mexican heritage and should not be missed. However, it’s worth noting that the menu changes frequently, so get to know your server and ask about their new favourites.

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Other noteworthy spots to check out on your visit:

• Bar del Pla: a laid-back neighbourhood favourite specialising in local natural wines, with quality tapas to complete the experience—a favourite among locals and travellers alike.
• Sips: crowned the World’s no. 1 bar by the 50 Best awards body in 2023, this small cocktail bar (it seats just 14 guests) boasts innovative, technique-driven drinks.
• Gocce di latte: home to excellent artisanal gelato both classic and unconventional, from pistachio to açai, spiced raspberry with cardamom, and the decadent dark chocolate with EVOO and Maldon salt.
• Bar Mut: more sophisticated than your typical tapas bar, yet charming and intimate all the same—explore the daily specials, but keep an eye out for the egg carpaccio with shrimp, Pulpollo (octopus on chicken skin), poularde cannelloni with truffle and foie sauce, aged txuleton with a pronounced funk reminiscent of blue cheese.
• Entrepanes Diaz: a charming sandwich shop (also helmed by the team behind Bar Mut, right across the street) with simple delights such as a Cadiz potato salad, an Ibérico presa sandwich with apple compote, and a meatball sandwich with tomato, basil, and fried brie.
• El Chigre 1769: where the flavours of Asturias and Catalonia come together across bites, tapas, and items fresh off the grill (do indulge in their fresh seafood, such as the rodaballo (turbot) if available), plus a unique collection of cider and homemade vermouth
• Jon Cake: the one stop I regret missing on my trip, allegedly home to the best cheesecake in town as declared by one of Manila’s most trustworthy authorities on the matter—chef David Amoros of El Born, whose cheesecakes have become the talk of the town themselves.

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