Inside Davao Food and Wine Festival 2024: Chefs, bartenders, and artisans to know in Davao City

Their seven-course menu was a delicious display of Davao’s rich biodiversity, highlighting produce, fish, cheeses, and other ingredients sourced in the area. Topped with a picture-perfect duck egg yolk from Agriya farm, the talakitok tartare captivated the palate with a delicious richness, complemented by the acidity of kamias and saliargaw. Their bread basket likewise showcased Davao artisans, featuring focaccia and crackers from Grateful Bread and a homemade loaf made of banana flour from Hijo Plantation—tasty canvases for the burnt and whipped goat butter from Malagos farm, as well as Roots’s mind-boggling ampalaya oil, which might be easily mistaken for a fresh, grassy olive oil.

Roots’s signature dish, Our Ceviche, also made an appearance, utilising coconuts from the island to create their coconut leche de tigre: a bright, crave-worthy dressing for the fresh Lapu-Lapu, sweet potato, and pickled singkamas. The resort’s very own tuba (coconut wine), made with coconuts harvested that very morning, was a mesmerising pairing for the ceviche, beguiling the nose with the aromas of coconut, only to deliver an acidic punch and sweet, woody undertones. 

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On October 5, art, food, and cocktails came together in one lively get-together at Galerie Raphael Davao, where abstract artist Victor Secuya completed a live painting before our very eyes. After 16 years working in Dubai, Turkey, and even Hong Kong as the executive chef of W Hotel, chef Alexander Sebastian has returned to Mindanao, committed to bringing all he’s learned to Davao City while providing the same opportunities for other aspiring chefs. At the Palettes and Pairings event, Sebastian and his wife, Ana rolled out nine inspired bites championing local ingredients—and all from their makeshift kitchen at the back of the gallery, hardly breaking a sweat.

One standout from the evening was the ensalada: a flavourful medley of tapenade, delectable chèvre from Davao-based producer Noble Goat, and sweet, juicy heirloom tomatoes from Hectares of Hope we could only dream of in the city. Many sought second servings of the crispy rice topped with pasayan (local shrimp) and pickled sakurab (an allium commonly found in Mindanao, often dubbed “native scallions”), as well as the crowd-favourite alimango chawanmushi topped with ikura and served in a crab shell. For a sweet treat, Cacao Culture prepared a colourful selection of champorado, calamansi, and bibingka bonbons, each infused with local Sulà Spirit liqueurs.

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Meanwhile, bartender Carlos Mangcupang whipped up a storm at the front of the gallery, with guests queuing to enjoy the three brilliant cocktails made exclusively for the event. Flaunting a cheerful pink hue, the refreshing Likha quickly became a popular pick, crafted with gin, Davao pomelo, sauvignon blanc syrup, fragrant biasong lime, peppercorn, and soda water. The Apo Sandawa, made with whisky, coffee-infused Campari, sweet vermouth, and local Cacao liqueur seduced those after a stiff, loaded cocktail, evocative of the classic Negroni. It was the Indak that ultimately won me over: a complex harmony of grilled durian-washed whisky, biasong oleo saccharum, biasong, salt, and soda water that married flavours savoury, sweet, floral, citrusy, and salty in one creative cocktail. In addition to his bar pop-up, Gay Drinking with Carlos, Mangcupang can also be found at Taste of Home restaurant, running the kitchen as its chef.

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Our final stop on the tour brought us to the hilltops of BuDa (between Bukidnon and Davao), where Pilgrim’s chef Jeramie Go teamed up with chef Andrew Malarky of Wild Siargao. Situated a two-hour drive from Davao City, Pilgrim is home to Toronto soul food with an emphasis on hearty fall and winter flavours, perfect for BuDa’s chilly climate. Arriving at Pilgrim, we were met with an inviting, festive atmosphere reminiscent of one big family reunion. We rushed to fill our plates with the abundant spread of homemade breads, artisanal butters, and an array of cheeses from Noble Goat, who have continued to impress with each and every cheese we sampled. But we were warned not to get too excited—the main attraction was downstairs.

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It didn’t take long for us to find what we were looking for, as the irresistible aromas of meats, seafood, and vegetables guided us to the spit, bonfire, and grill in their backyard. “We knew we didn’t want to do a regular, sit-down dinner, we wanted to do something interesting and fun,” Go revealed, “just celebrate food and wine, really.” Malarky adds, “We wanted to engage people to eat, to walk around, and to talk—to make it more interactive.” To my surprise, the two Canadian-Filipino chefs shared that they only met three days prior to the collaboration, when Malarky flew in from Siargao. “I’ve really taken some time to get to know Jeramie and his family, and they’ve welcomed me like one of their own,” he continues. “I tell you, it’s been amazing.” Building the experience around quality meats from Mindanao Butchers & Company, local vegetables from BuDa, and open-fire cooing, the pair quickly got to work.

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The colourful spread had us questioning where to begin: roasted squash salad, pork loin porchetta, yellow and purple corn, or seafood adlai with mussels, clams, and shrimp. While many set their sights on heavier meats like smoked brisket and grilled picanha, I went straight for the roasted pineapple salsa and spitfire salmon, which proved to be a heavenly pairing. Chef Malarky’s smoked hock fabada was another highlight, as were chef Go’s piri piri chicken and Portuguese grilled sardines—a sneak peek at their newest concept, Bairrada, which opened its doors on the 19th of October. Since there’s always room for dessert, the team then brought out platters of homemade s’mores and mango-berry cobbler to cap off the feast.

Before driving back to the city with full bellies and happy memories, we all exchanged heartfelt thanks, but no farewells. Instead, we said “see you next year!”, certain we’d find our way back to Davao. Stay tuned for more updates as the team cooks up more exciting events for Davao Food and Wine Festival 2025.

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