Cover Chef Rhea Rizzo of Mrs Saldo’s
Chef Rhea Rizzo of Mrs Saldo’s
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Chef Rhea Rizzo brings Mrs Saldo’s from Cavite to Manila for another à la carte pop-up this October
When chef Rhea Rizzo’s private dining restaurant Mrs Saldo’s did a month-long takeover at Balmori Suites in Rockwell last December, the warm reception was so overwhelming and unexpected that it made her reconsider doing another one, albeit longer, in the metro, kilometres away from his spot in Silang, Cavite. But to successfully pull it off, she needed two things: a great venue that’s available for short-term lease and a wonderful partner to help her operate it. Luckily, her prayers were answered sooner than she expected.
By just asking friends, she was instantly led and introduced to K700 in Karrivin Plaza. “It’s a beautiful showroom that features the brands Design Story, Fotile, and Oppein. The meeting went very well and we all thought that a collaboration made total sense. It was quite serendipitous. This is also their first-ever collaboration project,” she says. “It’s funny how the universe works, sometimes.”
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Above Thai fish jaw curry
Above Chef Rhea Rizzo in Bacolod
Thai fish jaw curry
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As for her business partner, she did not have to look far. Rhea simply turned to her mentor, someone who has been running notable restaurants in Manila for many years now. “The first time I met Ryan Cruz (Ramen Yushoken, Mendokoro Ramenba, Kazunori Japanese Restaurant, Marudori, 12/10, and Kazu Café) was in Cagayan De Oro. He was the guest speaker of our learning day event, and the manner in which he expressed the importance of a great culture, taking care of our people, and sharing his stories, insights and learnings resonated with me so much that I wanted to approach him afterwards,” says Rizzo.
“He was gracious and I remember telling myself that he would be my business mentor, he just doesn’t know it yet—and he did. The more I got to know him through our mentoring sessions, the more I was convinced that he would be my business partner but that again, he just didn’t know it yet. I was thinking the worst thing that could happen was telling me no. But when I asked, he said yes!”
Tuna with tuba, kamias, and coconut espuma
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It was as if fate intervened and everything just fell into place, including a couple of travels, which served as inspiration for the new array of dishes she will be offering. Take the piaya with humba and Xi’an Sauce, for instance, a snack that takes inspiration from her recent trip to Negros, where she got to visit farms and mount a one-night collaboration with chefs Bettina Arguelles and this writer.
“Chin-Chin Uy made us try to make fresh piayas in his restaurant, Lanai. I thought of stuffing it with something savoury and a particular Xi’an sauce has always been on the back burner because of how much I loved the black vinegar–soy concoction when we travelled to this Western part of China years ago. I thought the syrupy, vinegary flavours pair well with the richness of the soy–peanut and pork mixture.”
More from Tatler: These are the most iconic Filipino dishes from Negros, Ilocos, Pampanga, and more
Above Pork Ibérico with pomelo salad
Above Piaya humba with Xi’an sauce
Pork Ibérico with pomelo salad
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She describes her food as cross–border comfort food as you’ll more often than not find components that she experienced and came across the restaurants and side street eateries she has been to here and abroad.
The fried barramundi in a beurre noisette sauce is something that reminds her of coastal French bistros. “This is me looking back at my classic French background, plus having a lot of amazing barramundi in Melbourne this year. It’s a very simple dish and yet it brings so many memories for me when the Barramundi is seared perfectly, and the butter reaches that hazelnut aroma when you try to cook it down to a certain colour right before it actually burns and becomes unpalatable. The capers and lemon are added to lend the acidity that it needs.”
Barramundi with beurre noisette
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Along with Mrs Saldo’s staples such as the crab dip and Thai fish curry, there will also be a tonnato salad, which is reminiscent of a cold Italian antipasto, pork Ibérico with Shanghai fried rice and pomelo salad; a mouthwatering version of the Negrense favourite kansi; and the Khao Kha Moo, a braised pork number with spices, cooked caramel and soy sauce, served on top of rice with nahm jim sauce, boiled eggs, bok choy, raw garlic and fresh chillies.
See also: Chef Josh Boutwood’s Anvil at The Balmori Chef’s Table
Above Cheese ice cream
Above Sticky date pudding
Cheese ice cream
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“During my stay in Chiang Mai, I stayed in a simple but lovely place by the river and this very nice Thai lady cooked and served me this breakfast dish every day. It was just so memorable for me. You can feel and taste the care that went into cooking that dish no matter how humble-looking it was.”
Travel the world with Rhea by taking part in the worthwhile three-month-long pop-up where she will serve the food à la carte and in sets.
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The Mrs Saldo’s Pop Up is scheduled to start this October 15. It will be open for lunch and dinner. Reservations can be made through the Mrs Saldo’s reservation number, +63 917 100 2983.
