Cover New restaurant Kazu Café: Now open at Ayala Triangle Gardens
New restaurant Kazu Café: Now open at Ayala Triangle Gardens
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From the same group that gave us Kazunori comes their yōshoku concept that offers an enhanced selection of Japanese cafe fare from chef Kuramochi Kazunori
The Japanese, known to be proud and highly respectful of their customs and traditions, are also not averse to adopting things from other cultures that they have grown to love or admire. Yōshoku is a segment of Japanese cuisine that refers to a style of Western-influenced cooking which originated during the Meiji Restoration, a political event that led to the dissolution of Japan’s feudal system and brought back practical imperial rule. At this moment in history when Japan reinstated itself in global affairs and got on the fast track to modernization, its exposure to the Western world has opened them not only to technology but also to other cuisines.
Their dynamic cafe culture stems from their deep appreciation for not only good coffee and tea, but also conventional Western coffee shop provisions such as sandwiches (called “sandos” in Japan), creamy pasta, hamburgers, and pastries. In fact, when Kazunori opened along Pasong Tamo Extension in 2017, their Japanese restaurant concept was not as traditional as most people believe. “Kazunori has always housed three different concepts under one roof: a sushi bar, the traditional Japanese restaurant, and a cafe,” president and CEO Ryan K Cruz of its parent company Nippon Hasha, Inc explains. “But, it seems like a lot of people still are not aware of it, which was probably our fault. We should have been better at communicating it to our customers.”
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Above 10 Kinds temari, sushi-style breakfast bites at Kazu Café
Above Kazu Café’s ebi tendon
10 Kinds temari, sushi-style breakfast bites at Kazu Café
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Still, those who are in the know have truly learned to love their café offerings such as the beef tsukemen udon, hamburger curry rice bowls, and creamy mentaiko pasta, among other hearty and comforting dishes. This led the partners to believe that an independent café concept can thrive on its own and is also something easier to scale than a full-on Japanese restaurant. Kazu Café has been in the works for a couple of years now, and Cruz has been in talks for the Ayala Triangle Garden location since last year. “They were already eager to give us the spot, which I really liked not only because of the size and space, but also because it looked out to beautiful greenery which gave it a very Japanese vibe,” he admits. “However, I told Ayala Land ‘Wait! There is still a lot of work to be done.’”
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Chef Kuramochi Kazunori of the eponymous Kazunori restaurant and subsequent Kazu Café
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Cruz understood the importance of branding and worked with Singapore-based brand and graphic design firm Acre who has done amazing work with leading hospitality groups such as Banyan Tree, Mandarin Oriental, and Yardstick Coffee, to name a few. The letters on the logo are meant to emulate moldable clay figures as if fashioned by a child’s hand, which is a nod to the playful and whimsical character of Japanese culture. Even the colourway is very youthful and vibrant, with splashes of salmon, buttery yellows, and Kazunori’s signature denim blue. “In fact, when I was describing my vision to our designer Liza Crespo (of Per Ectotecture Studio), she said ‘So, you want it to be something out of a Wes Anderson movie.’ I laughed because I realized that is exactly what I had in mind.” The striking design is both evocative of traditional Japanese shapes and lines, but also uniquely quirky and boldly sculptural without losing its mischievous streak.
Kazu Café now open at Ayala Triangle Gardens
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The beautiful interiors, with all the meticulous attention it has been given, is merely a beautiful foil for chef Kuramochi Kazunori’s food. There are many Japanese cafés, but not done at the level of a Japanese chef trained to prepare traditional dishes at the highest level. The menu is mostly composed of new dishes, with portions scaled down not only to a friendlier price point but so guests can try more items on the menu. “I noticed that our portions (in the Kazumori café menu) are so massive that guests would order one item and will be too full to try other things,” Ryan observes. “With Kazu Café, we decided to make the portions smaller so it’s more fun, and actually that is also more Japanese.”
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New restaurant Kazu Café now open at Ayala Triangle Gardens
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The salads are definitely a good place to start, such as a refreshing daikon salad with bonito flakes and radish sprouts or their cha soba salad with sous vide chicken breast and prosciutto. A yōshoku staple is the tamago sando which is truly wonderful even at its most basic, but the chef’s version in Kazu Café would be a soufflé egg sandwiched between airy white loaf and then smothered with a sweet tartar sauce. The Hitachi Wagyu burger saw many reiterations before finally getting Cruz’s approval, and it proves that the best ones are very traditional with American cheddar, lettuce, and tomatoes, allowing the premium Japanese beef to work its magic.
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Above Kazu Café’s matcha Mont Blanc
Above Musk melon kakigori from Kazu Café
Kazu Café’s matcha Mont Blanc
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There are beautifully presented dishes from their sushi bar, such as the colourful, ball-shaped tamari sushi which is usually reserved for special occasions but Kazu Café believes that every day is worth celebrating. They also have some off-menu breakfast items like a nine-dish bento, but there are plenty of hearty options to choose from such as a whimsical spin on tendon and perfectly-fried chicken thigh, potatoes, and dashi tamago to start. For a quick coffee break in the mid-afternoon, there are Viennoiserie such as croissants and danishes supplied by Rebel Bakehouse.
Kazu Cafe is truly like walking into a dream, and a really good one at that, filled with colours and images from a happy childhood paired with food and drinks you will be eager to share with family and friends. Or, it can also be an escape from the realities of adult life, where staring out into the lush garden beyond brings just as much comfort as tucking into a soft sando or a bowl of creamy pasta. Regardless of the agenda, Kazu Café is here to provide some much-needed comfort, nourishment, and yes, a bit of child-like fun.
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Credits
Photography: Jon Hipe
Jaclyn Clemente Koppe is a food and lifestyle writer, as well as a consultant to some of the country’s beloved food and beverage brands. Her passion for food and drink is only surpassed by her devotion to her family, most especially to her soulmate, Pepa the poodle.
