Cover Léo Daull joins Feuille as head chef this October
Léo Daull joins Feuille as head chef this October
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Trained in Paris’s finest kitchens, the young chef steers the produce-driven cooking of Feuille towards a more French direction
Léo Daull’s entry into the culinary world began early. Growing up in a family of hoteliers and restaurateurs, he developed a passion for cooking at a young age. Since then, he has honed that initial spark into something more refined, polishing his craft across France’s top kitchens and, most recently, at Hong Kong’s Cristal Room by Anne-Sophie Pic.
Although classically trained and steeped in the formalities of fine-dining, Daull maintains an appreciation for authentic, approachable flavours. Feuille’s seasons-driven approach to fine dining felt like a logical next step. We sat down with the chef ahead of the restaurant’s first service following its revamp to speak about his journey, his love for the fundamentals of French cuisine, and how he brings the rustic flavours of Alsace to Feuille’s sustainable kitchen.
Read more: On the pass with Irfan Rao, Uncle Quek’s new executive chef
Above The new culinary team at Feuille is led by David Toutain (left) and guided by head chef Daull (middle) and sous chef Alexandre Terrier (right)
The new culinary team at Feuille is led by David Toutain (left) and guided by head chef Daull (middle) and sous chef Alexandre Terrier (right)
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What do you have in store for Feuille?
We’ll continue to use local products, but the idea is to steer the menu towards a more French direction while maintaining a zero-waste principle. For example, for the chicken course’s pil-pil sauce, we use every part of a fish: bones, head, trimmings and fat. We also turn what we can into house-made ham.
The experience starts from the bottom of the sea and goes up to the leaves of the tree. We start with marine-led bites, which feature clams, squid, mussels and shrimp. Each course centres on a main plate and is accompanied by a minimum of two sides. This is a nod to Asian dining culture, where you’ll often get several side dishes and sharing plates on the table. I also think it’s more entertaining to have more on the table. There’s no order for enjoying the dishes; I want the guests to explore on their own.
Above The langoustine course on the new Discovery menu
Above The Kampachi course is served in four expressions
The langoustine course on the new Discovery menu
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What influenced your move to Hong Kong?
When I was younger, I travelled with my brother to Vietnam. It was my first time in Asia, and to be honest I didn’t want to go at first. But he persuaded me, and that trip made me fall in love with this side of the world. Everything is amazing—the food, the culture, the people.
Later, when I worked in Paris, I met my girlfriend who was born in Hong Kong but adopted by a French family. We decided we want to settle in Asia, but weren’t sure where. In the end, Hong Kong made the most sense. I’ve been here for a year and a half now, and I really like the city. We’ve explored a lot of restaurants—French cuisine and fine dining of course, but also Cantonese spots, dai pai dongs and Vietnamese food.
Above The Forest course centres on a mushroom pâté en croûte
The Forest course centres on a mushroom pâté en croûte
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Who has been the biggest influence on you professionally to date?
My family. My dad used to work in a hotel restaurant in France, and my family is also in the restaurant business. I used to help out at the restaurant during dinner service, and grew to love cooking.
All the chefs I’ve met in my career have had an influence on me, but one that stands out is Stéphanie Le Quellec, who I worked with during my time at La Scène in Paris. She gave me the opportunity to be her right hand, and I learned a lot with her.
Which book or movie do you think every chef should read or watch?
I love charcuterie and baking, so [reference book] Le Grand Livre de la Charcuterie. There are a lot of recipes for pâté en croûte [pâté wrapped in a pastry crust] that I like, and I flip through it for inspiration every time I want to try something new. And also the Le Grand Livre de la Boulangerie, which is from the same series but focuses on baking.
I also think [documentary series] Chef’s Table is a good series. You learn more about the philosophies of the chefs and how they collaborate with suppliers and farmers.
Above Local three yellow chicken is prepared using a traditional French technique, ‘en vessie,’ or “in bladder”
Above The chicken course comes in five distinctive expressions: breast, stuffed wing, tartlet, mousse and a rich broth
Local three yellow chicken is prepared using a traditional French technique, ‘en vessie,’ or “in bladder”
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Which chef would you most like to cook with?
If I need to choose one, I want to work with Arnaud Donckele. I remember hearing what he had to say about the food when he dined at Stéphanie Le Quellec’s restaurant; his insights on food are profound. He already has a few three-star restaurants, but he deserves a fourth star!
What is the one ingredient you can’t live without?
Cream. I know it’s heavy, but growing up in Alsace, it’s in so many dishes. To me, more than anything, it makes the food taste comforting.
What is the best restaurant you have ever eaten at?
Plénitude by Arnaud Donckele. The experience was really incredible, from the front of house to the kitchen, the plating and the wine.
Above The dessert course features a light vanilla-flavoured creation made with local soy milk
The dessert course features a light vanilla-flavoured creation made with local soy milk
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What is your favourite food city or foodie travel destination?
I have two favourites: Biarritz, where my girlfriend is from, and San Sebastián in Spain. Biarritz is in the southwest of France, so you get a lot of dishes grilled on the barbecue or plancha. Both cities have good food, but I think I like them also for the ambience. You have the sea, the sun; you feel safe, you feel good when you’re enjoying some tapas and good beer with friends—they’re the places I love.
It’s your last meal—what’s on the menu?
I’ll have something from my region: tarte flambée. It’s a thin dough spread with cream, seasoned with salt and pepper, layered with ham and onions, and baked in a wood-fired oven. There is also a sweet version with cinnamon and apples, finished with torched Calvados.
Formerly a lifestyle editor, Celia is now an Associate Dining Editor at Tatler Hong Kong, where she covers local dining stories with a strong sense of narrative and cultural context. She focuses on the people, places and moments shaping the city’s food scene, bringing a storytelling-led approach to restaurant features, chef profiles and on-the-ground coverage.
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