Cover Irfan Rao joins Uncle Quek as the restaurant’s new executive chef
Irfan Rao joins Uncle Quek as the restaurant’s new executive chef
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Get to know the man bringing a fresh beat to Uncle Quek, Central’s casual Southeast Asian eatery
Uncle Quek, a high-energy Southeast Asian bistro on Central’s Lyndhurst Terrace, welcomes new executive chef Irfan Rao, who brings a fresh perspective to the menu.
Hailing from West London, Rao brings a wealth of experience from the city’s Michelin-starred kitchens to Hong Kong. While his technique leans on French and Italian traditions, his culinary expression remains rooted in a distinct South Asian identity. Raised in a multicultural neighbourhood rich with Sri Lankan and Indian influences, Rao’s relationship with food began long before he stepped into a professional kitchen. Although his tenure at London institutions like Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, Pétrus, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon and Pollini provided refined technical grounding, it is his passion for giving food meaning that fuels his craft.
Ahead of a dinner service at Uncle Quek, we sat down with Rao to speak about his inspirations, culinary path and what matters most to him as a chef.
Read more: The Asian chefs who refuse to play by Western rules
Above Ribeye prepared with a Kerala spice rub on Uncle Quek’s new menu
Ribeye prepared with a Kerala spice rub on Uncle Quek’s new menu
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What are your plans at Uncle Quek?
We are moving into a more South Asian style. I wanted to ease my way into it and offer dishes that reflect my identity, culture and history, but also retain some of the Singaporean elements that Barry [Quek] built, [while also, when possible] incorporating Hong Kong flavours. For example, we use a Kerala spice rub for the ribeye, black cardamom and tamarind for the lamb ribs, a Nepali-style achar [marinated vegetables] with the burrata, and pakoras served with chutney and labneh.
The Hariyali chicken stems from an experience I had at 15 in Southall, London, which has a vibrant South Asian community. I first had the dish there and never saw it anywhere else, so when I started this project, I knew I wanted to develop my own recipe for it. The idea for the salted egg yolk fish bomb came after trying Hong Kong-style fish balls for the first time. It is like a fish Scotch egg, where fish is minced with lemongrass, coriander and prawn, then paired with a salted egg yolk paste.
For dessert, the masala chai panna cotta draws on the masala tea I loved growing up—we infuse those flavours into the panna cotta and pair it with caramel sauce, pistachio and digestive biscuits.
See also: New restaurants, bars and dessert shops to visit in Hong Kong this October
Above The salted egg yolk fish bomb inspired by Hong Kong-style fish balls
The salted egg yolk fish bomb inspired by Hong Kong-style fish balls
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Which book do you think every chef should read?
Kitchen Confidential by Anthony Bourdain. I was given the book after doing work experience with chef Craig McDonald at The Reform Club in London. It had a huge impact on me by showing the real rawness of kitchen life, the humour, honesty and struggles that a lot of chefs go through. [Bourdain] encapsulates all that in the book.
In England, we have a lot of [strict] chefs, and to work in a kitchen means you have to be [tough]. But Bourdain showed that kitchen life can be more playful, more chill and more about exploring other people’s cultures. This had an impact on me as well, which is why in my own kitchens, everyone is friendly and it’s all about having fun.
Bourdain also had an ability to understand food for the people and culture behind it. He went around the world and liked to eat at local places, which is something I enjoy doing in Hong Kong to better understand its food traditions.
You may also like: 11 Hong Kong restaurants loved by Anthony Bourdain
Above Rao (left) photographed with chef Barry Quek (right), group ambassador of ZS Hospitality and founder of Uncle Quek
Rao (left) photographed with chef Barry Quek (right), group ambassador of ZS Hospitality and founder of Uncle Quek
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Which chef—dead or alive—would you most like to cook with?
Bruno Verjus [the French chef in charge of Table in Paris]. I actually did a four-hands with him before at my last restaurant in London. He is self-taught, having worked as a doctor and journalist before opening his kitchen.
I love the way he thinks about food and approaches it. He puts farmers on a pedestal and knows exactly what’s in season. He has a natural touch with food and knows how to bring out its best. I really enjoyed the short time that I had with him and would love to do it again.
What is the one ingredient you can’t live without?
Chilli, especially bird’s eye chillies, which I use frequently in my bases. I find chilli really interesting because each culture uses them differently, whether dried, pickled or fresh. I’m definitely a big fan.
Above The Hariyali chicken skewers served at Uncle Quek
The Hariyali chicken skewers served at Uncle Quek
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What is the best restaurant you have ever eaten at?
It has to be Table by Bruno Verjus. I spent time with the kitchen team, saw their operations first-hand and enjoyed a huge 15-course meal with wine pairings. Halfway through, I’d already decided that it was the best meal I’ve ever had in my life. From the tableware to the sommelier, the attention to detail was incredible.
When you dine at a restaurant, which part of the experience do you focus on the most?
As soon as I sit down, I always check the plate! I’m a big fan of tableware, especially handmade, hand-painted plates and fine china. I also look at the glassware, cutlery, table and how comfortable the chair is. The food naturally follows, but those initial details capture my attention right away; they show you that the food will follow in a certain way. It’s a bit of a strange one, but that’s genuinely what I look for.
Above Beef rendang tagliatelle crafted with fresh spinach pasta
Above Pakoras served with chutney and labneh
Beef rendang tagliatelle crafted with fresh spinach pasta
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What is your favourite food city or foodie travel destination?
It’s hard to pick just one. Before, it was London, but I think at the moment, the most exciting for me is definitely Hong Kong. It’s slowly easing me into more Asian food, and is a place where a lot of great chefs are emerging, and people are pioneering new things.
I’ve tried a lot of established restaurants and also more local spots, like the dai pai dongs. I like the simplicity and efficiency of simply sitting down, enjoying good food, then moving on.
It’s your last meal—what’s on the menu?
Some good bread—ideally small, artisanal sourdough baguettes, or laminated brioche—good salted butter. Something on the barbecue—bone-in lamb shoulder and veggies as well, on the side. Some potatoes wrapped in foil on the coals, paired with a simple yoghurt sauce. Then, something small but sweet—maybe a gelato. And a couple of good bottles of wine—which I share with the family, of course, not on my own!
Formerly a lifestyle editor, Celia is now an Associate Dining Editor at Tatler Hong Kong, where she covers local dining stories with a strong sense of narrative and cultural context. She focuses on the people, places and moments shaping the city’s food scene, bringing a storytelling-led approach to restaurant features, chef profiles and on-the-ground coverage.
