Restaurant au Jardin’s Kim Hock Su on place, identity and why Penang was the answer

“It’s fundamentally still very French, because that’s how we were trained. But over the years, we’ve tried to showcase the people—not only the people that we work with, but also the farmers, artisans, fishermen and very much whoever makes Penang, Penang.”

Indeed, a glance at the menu reveals classic French techniques intertwined with Penang’s rich heritage, where local produce, indigenous herbs and regional seafood guide each plate. “We’re not trying to replicate France in Penang,” says Su. “We work with ingredients from a local terroir, but we also try to incorporate cultural elements into our cuisine as well.”

Perhaps the clearest reflection of this ethos is the building housing the restaurant. “The real estate agent showed us four or five venues. Then we saw this old warehouse located in a bus depot, where the mechanics used to repair and maintain the buses. Instantly I could visualise how I wanted to make this my restaurant. I knew exactly where I wanted my kitchen to be, how I wanted to seat my diners and how everything would flow.

“I feel the building’s history adds to the experience. When the owners asked if we wanted to do something about the fasçade, we said ‘no’,” adds Su. “I told them we shouldn’t force something new into this space, that the restaurant should coexist with the whole environment. [The fasçade] was the one thing we really wanted to keep. And now, I think it creates an intriguing contrast: when you walk into the restaurant, you feel that you’re in a different realm.”

Since opening, Restaurant au Jardin has established itself as one of Penang’s most acclaimed dining destinations, earning recognition and critical acclaim, and was named Tatler Best Malaysia’s Restaurant of the Year in 2026 for its inventive French-Malaysian cuisine and dedication to sourcing local. Yet, the path to success was anything but easy.

“Penang has always been known for its street food, but fine-dining was virtually non-existent at the time. To a certain extent, we were trailblazing, but on paper, the idea just spelt out a disaster,” Su recalls with a chuckle.

See also: Tatler Best 20 restaurants in Malaysia for 2026

“The city didn’t have the population density that would support the restaurant. It didn’t have the amount of tourists that we have now. I remember telling my staff, ‘We have worked so hard for Taiwan; if you prefer to stay in Taipei, please do,’ because we were in the midst of major recognition there. Going back to Penang meant throwing all of it out the window.

“In Taipei, we were lucky enough to have access to many good proteins and agricultural products. Malaysia has a very different ground, and the government’s initiative towards agriculture was to prioritise yield over quality to fight poverty and food insecurity. When we first spoke to farmers, it was very hard to convince them to grow better. The whole dialogue really happened after the accolades we have achieved.”

While the COVID-19 pandemic was detrimental to the global hospitality sector, the lack of travel unexpectedly worked in favour of Au Jardin. “Penang was always a by-the-way destination. But the turning point for us really was the pandemic. When there was this restriction on travel, it forced local diners to stay and spend domestically. That’s how we’ve built a supportive customer base.”

Now well established in Penang, Su finds balance through music, an interest he views less as a hobby and more as an integral element of his creative process. “I have a love for music, particularly vinyl records. That’s something I would do to unwind, but I also see a connection between music and cooking. I think both rely on balance and restraint, and the older I get, the more I realise my ideas often happen when I’m listening to music and not actively trying to create,” says Su.

“I appreciate subtlety and finesse in music, and that’s what I try to deliver in my dishes. I think elegance should feel natural, never forced, a quality that is very much driven by the music I enjoy”

During the Tatler Best Takeover Series, Su worked within various kitchens and alongside different teams. Reflecting on his participation, Su emphasises the importance of adaptability. “I think chefs shouldn’t be too anchored to comfort zones. You should have a general framework on how things should work, but you must act spontaneously when working in an unfamiliar venue. The more collaborations you do, the more you understand that.

“That’s why intuition, this ‘chef’s gut,’ is important when you’re making a decision for the kitchen. I think having the ability to decide what to do when you’re in a foreign setting is as important as knowing your own kitchen inside and out.”

While earning accolades is certainly rewarding, Su advises aspiring chefs to maintain focus on craft. “I think for young chefs, it’s important to know that this is an industry that requires you to grind. You have to put in a lot of physical endurance, mental strength and perseverance. Awards are welcome, but they are often a distraction from what truly matters”

Throughout the takeover series, Su showed a strong commitment to mentoring the younger cooks. When asked about the sort of legacy he wishes to leave behind, the chef, perhaps unsurprisingly, focused on one that a next generation of Malaysian chefs can carry on.

“I would love people to talk about how we opened doors to others, whether it’s our peers, fellow farmers, artisans, the people that we mentored or have shaped along the way, and the confidence we have given to aspiring talents. I think for me, the greatest achievement is for people to talk about us having the ability to train a generation of chefs who will ultimately surpass us. If I succeed in this, I’ll consider it a life well spent.”

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