Cover Shantanu Mehrotra, executive chef of Indian Accent, New Delhi (Photo: courtesy of Indian Accent)

Inside one of New Delhi’s most acclaimed restaurants, this chef commands the kitchen with a style of Indian cooking that surprises with its adaptability

For chefs, culinary tradition can be a blessing and a curse. It forms the foundation on which skills are honed, techniques mastered, and flavours fine-tuned to perfection. But it can also become a roadblock to creativity, a stubbornness that ultimately starves a cuisine of its relevance. This is the fine line that Shantanu Mehrotra treads at Indian Accent, one of New Delhi’s acclaimed institutions and certainly one of the city’s most innovative.

Here, Indian cuisine arrives at your table in unexpected forms. Think paneer kulcha (a type of Indian flatbread) that swaps in blue cheese, and mutton boti (pan-fried or grilled yoghurt-marinated lamb) served Peking duck–style with miniature roomali roti (thin flatbread) and chutneys. The soul of each plate is recognisably Indian, but its presentation hints at a worldly sensibility. A quality that, in some ways, represents both the chef and the country he calls home.

We sat down with Mehrotra after the Tatler Best Takeover Series 2026 in Hong Kong, where the chef shared his culinary journey, his unique approach to Indian cuisine, and how he balances tradition with innovation.

Read more: Inside the Tatler Best Takeover Series 2026 in Hong Kong

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Above Blue cheese naan with shorba (savoury soup) by Indian Accent (Photo: courtesy of Indian Accent)

A career in food seems natural for someone who grew up in one of the richest culinary capitals of the world. As Mehrotra explains, “Growing up in India, food was at the centre of family gatherings, celebrations and everyday life. Some of my earliest memories are of watching meals come together at home and being fascinated by how food could bring people together and create lasting memories.”

From a young age, Mehrotra was introduced to India’s robust food traditions, especially those native to the northern regions. “I remember watching my grandmother and mother make pickles using different varieties of mangoes, as well as papad (thin flatbread) made from potatoes, tapioca and other ingredients. At that time, these things were all made at home rather than bought commercially, and that process gave me a real insight into food and tradition.”

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Above Indian Habitat Centre in New Delhi, where the All American Diner and Oriental Octopus used to be located (Photo: Fabian Kronenberger/ Google Images)
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Above Entrance to the All American Diner (Photo: @theallamericandiner/ Instagram)

For Mehrotra, this eagerness and curiosity towards food did not stop short of Indian food. “Early in my career, I was eager to explore different kitchens, cuisines and roles. The All American Diner [an American-style diner in New Delhi which has now transformed into the all-day dining restaurant Habitat Club] was very close to my heart, and later I returned to Indian cuisine and continued learning there. During those years, I also worked at Oriental Octopus [a Pan-Asian restaurant in New Delhi that has now closed], where I was exposed to cuisines from across Asia, including Japanese, Thai and Chinese food.

I never said no to moving across restaurants or taking charge of something unfamiliar. That openness gave me invaluable insight into different cuisines. It exposed me to new techniques, perspectives and ways of thinking about food. It broadened my understanding of flavour and strengthened my adaptability as a chef.”

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Above Mutton boti by Indian Accent (Photo: courtesy of Indian Accent)

Yet, this curiosity became, for a while, its own stumbling block. As Mehrotra says, “This lack of a linear path felt like a setback. There were moments when moving between opportunities seemed risky compared to following a more conventional route, but looking back, those experiences became some of my greatest teachers.

What may have appeared to be detours at the time ultimately shaped my identity in the kitchen and prepared me for the leadership role I hold today.”

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Above Mehrotra at the live station in Harbourside, Regent Hong Kong during the Tatler Best Takeover Series (Photo: Zed Lee)

At this stage of his career, the chef’s focus remained entirely on perfecting a dish, a fault that Mehrotra was not ashamed to admit he was criticised for. “One piece of feedback that stayed with me was that I was sometimes so focused on perfecting the details of a dish that I could lose sight of the bigger picture of the guest experience. It was difficult to hear because as chefs, we take immense pride in precision and craftsmanship.

But over time I realised that a great restaurant is about much more than technical excellence on the plate. It is about hospitality, consistency, teamwork and creating a memorable experience from start to finish. This feedback taught me to step back more often, trust my team and view every decision through the eyes of the guest. Ultimately, it made me a better chef.”

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Above Mehrotra is joined by chefs Oliver Zee, Kim Hock Su and Ryu Shunsuke at the Tatler Best Takeovers in Hong Kong (Photo: Zed Lee)
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Above Indian Accent in New Delhi (Photo: courtesy of Indian Accent)

With Mehrotra’s penchant for discovery, it comes as no surprise that one of the chef’s passions beyond the kitchen lies in travelling the world. “I enjoy exploring local food cultures and spending time outdoors. Travel, in particular, has always been a major source of inspiration because it allows me to experience new ingredients, techniques and traditions first hand, and discover the stories behind different cultures and cuisines.

Travel broadens my perspective, introduces me to unexpected flavour combinations and encourages me to think differently about familiar ingredients. The goal is never to replicate what I’ve seen elsewhere, but to use those experiences to deepen and enrich the way I interpret Indian cuisine.”

During his time in Hong Kong, the chef found the city’s diverse dining scene a fascinating landscape. “What I admire most is [Hong Kong’s] incredible balance between tradition and innovation. You can find a generations-old noodle shop around the corner from a world-class fine dining restaurant, and both are equally respected. There is an energy and efficiency to Hong Kong that is inspiring, yet it never loses its cultural identity.”

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Above Mehrotra (left) with Manav Tuli (right) of Leela, Hong Kong (Photo: Zed Lee)
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Above The teams of Indian Accent and Leela (Photo: Zed Lee)

For Mehrotra, recognition was never the goal but rather a welcomed honour. “It doesn’t fundamentally change what we owe our guests or ourselves. If anything, it reinforces the responsibility we already feel every day. Guests choose to spend their time and place their trust in us, and that means delivering excellence consistently, not just on special occasions.

Personally, it is a reminder to remain curious, humble and committed to continuous improvement.”

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Above Mehrotra (left) working with Jangir Shreshth of Indian Accent in the kitchen of Leela, Hong Kong (Photo: Zed Lee)

Reflecting on his participation in the Tatler Best Takeover Series, Mehrotra says, “Working in someone else’s kitchen forces you out of your comfort zone and strips away the familiarity of your own systems and routines. It reveals how adaptable you really are. Not just as a chef, but also as a collaborator.

Every kitchen has its own culture, rhythm and way of thinking, and immersing yourself in that environment teaches you to listen more closely, observe more carefully and question your own assumptions. They remind you that there is no single way to pursue excellence.”

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Above Mehrotra at the Tatler Best Takeover Series 2026 in Hong Kong (Photo: Zed Lee)

Having spent most of his life in the industry, Mehrotra mused on the legacy he hopes to leave behind, “I hope people say that I respected tradition while helping push Indian cuisine forward in a thoughtful and authentic way. More importantly, I hope I am remembered as someone who invested in people, who mentored young cooks, encouraged curiosity and helped create opportunities for others to grow.

If a young cook hears my name and thinks of someone who valued excellence, integrity and continuous learning, I would consider that far more meaningful than any individual accolade.”

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Celia Lee
Associate Dining Editor, Tatler Hong Kong
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Formerly a lifestyle editor, Celia is now an Associate Dining Editor at Tatler Hong Kong, where she covers local dining stories with a strong sense of narrative and cultural context. She focuses on the people, places and moments shaping the city’s food scene, bringing a storytelling-led approach to restaurant features, chef profiles and on-the-ground coverage.