Inside Fumée, an intimate yakitori restaurant led by Ryu Shunsuke, where fire is key and warmth is a non-negotiable

Inheriting the family business, however, was not the extent of the young chef’s ambitions, and at 18, Ryu moved to Osaka in search of something more refined. It wasn’t that he disliked the modest nature of the yakitori restaurant from his youth—in fact, the conviviality of a neighbourhood eatery is something he strives to replicate at Fumée—but rather that he envisioned a potential for the cuisine that could only be realised in kitchens designed for a broader stage.

Ryu honed his craft in the fire-led kitchen of Osaka’s acclaimed Yakitori Ichimatsu—a refined yakitori omakase destination—where techniques learnt from his family restaurant were forged into something worthy of a high-end table, a sharp tasting menu and even more refined palates. This stint not only allow Ryu to master the art of yakitori under the guidance of Hideto Takeda, one of Japan’s greatest yakitori chefs, but also fuelled his desire to travel, to showcase his craft beyond Japanese cities. “When I joined [Ichimatsu], they were already discussing an overseas expansion. I had always been interested in working outside of Japan, so when an opportunity in Taiwan presented itself, I took it.”

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This journey, however, was not without its challenges. As Ryu reflected, “I opened a restaurant in Taiwan before I had enough experience as a head chef in Japan. My management skills, technique, knowledge and language ability were not enough. Honestly, it was very difficult.” Yet the chef viewed each hurdle as a learning opportunity, where solutions developed and adaptations made gradually defined his vision for the restaurant.

“Fumée is not only about yakitori. For us, good food is expected; what matters more is whether our guests feel relaxed, comfortable and emotionally connected to the experience. I want Fumée to feel warm and alive—a place where people naturally want to come back to every weekend. We pay attention to music, atmosphere, timing, energy and communication between guests and chefs. Yakitori is simple food, so small details become everything.”

Beyond the kitchen, Ryu frequents local hang-outs, hot spots and the Taiwanese countryside in search of meaning—meaning behind certain ways a culture does things that shape its behaviour, determine its way of life and define its palate.

“I like observing people. I always ask myself, ‘Why?’ Why do people feel comfortable in some restaurants? Why do some teams grow together while others collapse? I enjoy listening to people from different industries—designers, artists, business owners—because I think every profession has its own way of thinking... Cooking is not only [about] technique. It is also [about] communication, rhythm, emotion and human understanding.”

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The same search for meaning extends across Ryu’s professional and personal life. During the Tatler Best Takeover Series 2026 in Hong Kong, he collaborated with leading personalities from across the region, where each encounter influenced his perspective on curating “atmosphere and emotional experience”.

“At the restaurant, I create the atmosphere myself, but during the events, I learned that being a great chef is not only about cooking skills. Energy, communication, teamwork, adaptability and emotional control are also very important. When you enter another kitchen, you discover which parts of yourself are real and which parts only exist because you are comfortable in your own environment. That experience taught me humility and self-awareness.”

Success brings both increased pressure and greater responsibility, realities that Ryu welcomes, particularly as Fumée is honoured as one of the Tatler Best 20 Restaurants 2026 in Taiwan. “I felt very proud and happy [to be part of this community]. But at the same time, I also feel more pressure and responsibility. Guests expect more from us now. So, we must go beyond expectations—not only with food, but also with hospitality, atmosphere and consistency. It is not easy, but I like that pressure; it forces people to grow.”

Precise techniques and attentive hospitality continue to guide Ryu’s operations at Fumée, two qualities the chef hopes will define his legacy. “It is about creating trust, atmosphere, teamwork and emotion through very small details,” he reflected. “I want to teach young chefs not only how to cook, but also how to think, communicate, lead and create experiences for people. If [I am remembered] as someone who helped other chefs grow, that would make me feel happiest.”

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