Cover Chef Tsutomu Ito crafts a Wagyu kaiseki experience at Gyu+ Bar by Miyoshi (Photo: courtesy of Gyu+ Bar by Miyoshi)
Chef Tsutomu Ito crafts a Wagyu kaiseki experience at Gyu+ Bar by Miyoshi (Photo: courtesy of Gyu+ Bar by Miyoshi)
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The founding chef shares how he perfects the Wagyu kaiseki experience through trial and error
Wagyu is one of the most prized meats in the world. Ranked according to a grading system that favours marbling and richness, Wagyu’s most defining quality, when handled by unskilled hands, can also be its downfall. The fattiness steals the spotlight, the creaminess overwhelms and the whole experience teeters on the edge of excess.
Tsutomu Ito committed to walking this fine line when he decided to develop a kaiseki (traditional multi-course dinner) experience centred around Wagyu. A self-taught chef who started as a bartender, then worked as a salaryman and in front-of-house operations at an izakaya before stepping into the kitchen, Ito approaches Japan’s most prized cut with an inquisitive spirit. Unburdened by the constraints of tradition, he presents the ingredient in unconventional pairings and across a variety of preparations, from a savoury beef ‘wine’ to sushi and shabu shabu (Japanese-style hot pot).
We sat down with Ito to learn more about his sourcing process, his pursuit of balance and how he curates a multi-course experience that celebrates Wagyu.
Read more: New restaurants, cafés and pastry shops in Hong Kong this September
Above The Wagyu experience begins with an aromatic truffle beef wine (Photo: courtesy of Gyu+ Bar by Miyoshi)
Above Generous shavings of black truffle accompany the drink (Photo: courtesy of Gyu+ Bar by Miyoshi)
The Wagyu experience begins with an aromatic truffle beef wine (Photo: courtesy of Gyu+ Bar by Miyoshi)
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“In a way, it feels like guests are tasting what’s inside my brain: deciding that after this aroma, a specific flavour should follow next,” Ito says about what diners can expect from the Wagyu tasting menu at Gyu+ Bar by Miyoshi, an adaptation of the one served at Niku no Takumi Miyoshi in Kyoto, the chef’s acclaimed Kyoto restaurant.
The multi-course kaiseki experience flows naturally from an aromatic beef ‘wine’ served with generous shavings of black truffle to sashimi, sushi, shabu shabu and rice courses, where the prized beef takes centre stage across the whole menu. This versatile incorporation of Wagyu is unusual, and the chef takes pride in his innovative spirit: “I’m not bound by traditional constraints or rigid rules. That gives me freedom.”
Above Thinly sliced Wagyu sashimi
Above The creaminess of the meat is balanced with wasabi, Kyushu soy sauce, spring onion and yuzu vinegar
Thinly sliced Wagyu sashimi
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Striking a balance between the richness of Wagyu and a lengthy menu is no easy feat, but Ito seems to have discovered the perfect formula. “Japan has four distinct seasons. Serving a 12-course menu centred around Wagyu beef across them all was challenging. I used to focus on perfecting the taste of each dish, but as I gained more experience, I realised the entire meal is one complete piece.”
“Every dish requires balance; serving rich dish after rich dish becomes exhausting. For guests to enjoy all 12 dishes, they can’t be too heavy or overwhelming. I designed the flow so guests leave feeling fully satisfied.” Indeed, the menu felt incredibly balanced: fresh wasabi, yuzu vinegar, dashi (soup stock), pickled aubergine and ginger work to offset the richness of A5 Wagyu with tartness and umami, while intermediate courses and palate cleansers typically found on kaiseki menus are consciously reinterpreted with equally bright and citrus-forward notes.
Above Marbling in Wagyu beef (Photo: Tsutomu Ito)
Marbling in Wagyu beef (Photo: Tsutomu Ito)
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When asked how he curates these harmonious pairings, Ito starts from the source itself. “In the beef market, farmers raise heavily marbled cattle because higher marbling, such as A5 Grade 12 [indicating a cattle with the highest yield, meat quality and marbling], commands higher prices. If a farmer buys a calf for one million yen and sells it for 1.2 million, they make no profit after feed and labour. To get by, farmers must raise cattle quickly to be large with high marbling. That is why heavily marbled Wagyu is predominantly exported overseas, leading to the perception abroad that this type of meat can be overly greasy.”
“Instead of buying standard market beef, I select specific cuts from specific farmers whose cattle do not feel heavy or greasy to me. Because I bypass public auctions and buy directly, I can even request farmers to raise cattle with slightly less fat for my restaurant. Then, I design cooking techniques so the rich fats don’t overpower the palate.”
Above Shabu shabu is a signature preparation (Photo: courtesy of Gyu+ Bar by Miyoshi)
Shabu shabu is a signature preparation (Photo: courtesy of Gyu+ Bar by Miyoshi)
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When encountering a cut for the first time, Ito follows a series of steps that allow the meat’s quality and natural aromas to shine. “First, I taste the cut raw to assess its natural aroma and sweetness. Next, I brush a little sauce on it to see how the flavours react, as Japanese dashi and soy sauce are central to our cooking. Then, I apply heat and taste it again.”
“Through these steps, I decide which technique, such as shabu shabu, suits [the meat] best. Other times, I start with a dish concept, like a seasonal deep-fried dish, and test various cuts and seasonings to see which fits best.”
See also: Hotpot, steamboat, and shabu-shabu: What are the differences between these comforting broths?
Above Smoked caviar and sea urchin crown the indulgent Wagyu sushi Miyoshi-style
Smoked caviar and sea urchin crown the indulgent Wagyu sushi Miyoshi-style
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The use of sauces and seasonings is equally intentional. Ito explains, “It all depends on the dish’s role in the menu. For example, rather than just serving meat as a piece of steak, I might pass Wagyu through a dashi broth so it absorbs the beef’s flavour, then pair it with seasonal turnip, tofu or conger eel. When beef acts as a subtle supporting flavour, I minimise seasoning. When beef is placed on top of lighter ingredients, I apply stronger seasoning like soy sauce or salt—or replace salt with caviar, or soy sauce with nori (seaweed)—to achieve overall balance.”
Above Wagyu tenderloin is slow-smoked over lychee wood embers
Above Each cut is paired with red wine salt, wasabi, salt-cured black pepper and house-made ‘hishio’ (Japanese soy-based fermented sauce)
Wagyu tenderloin is slow-smoked over lychee wood embers
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Lychee wood-fired cooking leads the à la carte experience at Gyu+ Bar, the same technique used to prepare the Wagyu tenderloin course on the tasting menu. Instead of grilling his cuts over charcoal, Ito opts to roast them gently over embers. “High-heat grilling over binchotan [dense Japanese white charcoal made from native hardwood] is widely considered the gold standard, and I used charcoal until renovating [my Kyoto restaurant] three years ago. Then, I installed a wood-fired oven. The key is okibi [glowing embers]—not active, roaring flames, but gentle embers after the wood has burnt down.”
“When I grilled vegetables over okibi, they turned out remarkably moist, bringing out their natural sweetness without the harsh bitterness that charcoal grilling sometimes imparts. Seeing that success, I tried cooking beef over okibi. The tenderloin came out far more moist and tender than expected. I felt this subtle heat control was ideal for our Wagyu tenderloin, and I wanted to bring that delicate flavour profile to our guests here in Hong Kong.”
Above Japanese pot rice with simmered beef with ginger, salt-cured kombu and Japanese pickle (Photo: courtesy of Gyu+ Bar by Miyoshi)
Japanese pot rice with simmered beef with ginger, salt-cured kombu and Japanese pickle (Photo: courtesy of Gyu+ Bar by Miyoshi)
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For all the intricate experimentation and flavour trials Ito conducts, his philosophy remains simple. “I just want to create delicious food that satisfies me. To achieve that, I source better ingredients and constantly ponder what delicious flavours I haven’t tasted yet. I simply treasure cooking what I personally would love to eat.”
Formerly a lifestyle editor, Celia is now an Associate Dining Editor at Tatler Hong Kong, where she covers local dining stories with a strong sense of narrative and cultural context. She focuses on the people, places and moments shaping the city’s food scene, bringing a storytelling-led approach to restaurant features, chef profiles and on-the-ground coverage.
