Cover Green Liu crafts a daring cocktail programme at Under Lab, Taipei (Photo: Zed Lee)
Green Liu crafts a daring cocktail programme at Under Lab, Taipei (Photo: Zed Lee)
1 / 1
This scientifically trained mixologist curates a creative cocktail programme for one of Taipei’s most experimental bars
Few are lucky enough to step out of university knowing exactly what they want to do. The same goes for Green Liu, head bartender of Under Lab in Taipei. A microbiologist by training, Liu could not have strayed further from the path she once envisioned. Instead of petri dishes, pipettes and incubators, she now works hands-on with ingredients indigenous to Taiwan, guided by a deep respect for local food and drink culture to devise one of the country’s most innovative bar menus.
We sat down with Liu following the Tatler Best Takeover Series 2026 in Hong Kong, where she shares her journey from microbiology to mixology, her experimental edge and how a love for her home guides her approach at Under Lab.
Read more: Inside the Tatler Best Takeover Series 2026 in Hong Kong
Above Liu with her mother and grandfather (Photo: courtesy of Green Liu)
Liu with her mother and grandfather (Photo: courtesy of Green Liu)
1 / 1
“I grew up in Hualien, Taiwan, surrounded by both mountains and the ocean,” says Liu. “From an early age, I developed a deep appreciation for nature and the arts, which later led me to study microbiology in graduate school.” A background in microbes, fungi and algae is hardly the typical backstory for a mixologist, but Liu’s scientific grounding and artistic sensibilities eventually shaped her philosophy and, by extension, her creative work at Under Lab.
Above Liu and her mother at her graduation (Photo: courtesy of Green Liu)
Liu and her mother at her graduation (Photo: courtesy of Green Liu)
1 / 1
Liu’s introduction to Taipei’s mixology scene arrived later, driven by a blend of chance and intention. “After taking a leave from graduate school, having never touched alcohol before, I walked into [the now-closed] Aha Saloon wanting to try something new. The bar was hugely influential in Taipei at the time, and it completely shattered my idea of what a bar could be. I was struck by how cocktail-making felt like a fusion of science and art, and it resonated deeply with what I was searching for in life back then.”
Above Liu at Under Lab, Taipei (Photo: courtesy of Under Lab)
Liu at Under Lab, Taipei (Photo: courtesy of Under Lab)
1 / 1
Liu’s entry into the industry was not without its hurdles. “My first bar job was at a gin bar called Ginspiration. At the start, I was unfamiliar with the industry. There was so much I didn’t know or was afraid to try, and my progress was painfully slow,” says Liu.
“One day, the barback called in sick and I was suddenly thrown into the role without knowing what to do. My manager pulled me aside and said something that hit hard: ‘If you’ve truly decided to enter this industry, you need to prepare with much more drive and intention.’ Those words shook me to my core. I’d always been someone who passively absorbed knowledge, and that moment changed how I approached learning behind the bar.”
Above Liu preparing drinks during the Tatler Best Takeover Series in Hong Kong (Photo: Zed Lee)
Liu preparing drinks during the Tatler Best Takeover Series in Hong Kong (Photo: Zed Lee)
1 / 1
This lesson stayed with Liu as she advanced her career from bar to bar, honing her skills along the way. “I’m actually very introverted, but behind the bar, it feels like I’m playing a character. It allows me to talk to strangers with ease.”
This was clear during the Tatler Best Takeover Series at Regent Hong Kong’s Qura Bar; as soon as Liu picked up a shaker, her initial quiet composure gave way to effortless poise as she navigated an unfamiliar workspace with professional grace.
It is the welcoming atmosphere of Under Lab that allowed Liu to truly find her footing. In her words, “Under Lab is a cool yet warmly inviting bar with a strong local character. It is a flavour laboratory that blends underground secrecy with experimental mixology. Centred around a unique D-shaped counter and our signature cocktail tasting menu, we deconstruct local Taiwanese tea, spirits and seasonal elements to redefine our own cocktail style.”
Above Liu preparing a drink at Qura Bar, Hong Kong (Photo: Zed Lee)
Liu preparing a drink at Qura Bar, Hong Kong (Photo: Zed Lee)
1 / 1
The experimental nature of Under Lab proved a natural fit for a mixologist trained in the sciences. However, this momentum was interrupted by the COVID-19 pandemic, when strict health regulations disrupted the food and beverage industry worldwide. “During the pandemic, I couldn’t hold on and took on work in other fields,” Liu admits, though this challenging period carried its own silver lining.
“Through those experiences, I came to understand deeply that being a bartender is what makes me the happiest. It’s what I want to do most. That realisation made me more certain of my calling.”
Above Liu visiting The Metropolitan Museum of Art during a leisure trip to New York (Photo: courtesy of Green Liu)
Liu visiting The Metropolitan Museum of Art during a leisure trip to New York (Photo: courtesy of Green Liu)
1 / 1
Creativity remains central to Liu’s philosophy and Under Lab’s cocktail programme. To maintain a steady flow of ideas, the mixologist regularly steps away from the bar to seek inspiration. “I love reading and visiting all kinds of exhibitions. Other people’s creative works spark so much inspiration in me,” says Liu.
“I also love walking; I think of it as a kind of moving meditation. Nature always gives me fresh ideas. Stepping away from the bar sometimes actually makes me want to create even more.”
Above Liu stirring an exclusive cocktail during the Tatler Best Takeover Series in Hong Kong (Photo: Zed Lee)
Liu stirring an exclusive cocktail during the Tatler Best Takeover Series in Hong Kong (Photo: Zed Lee)
1 / 1
Under Lab was named one of the Tatler Best 20 Bars in Taiwan for 2026. Reflecting on this recognition and her role in shaping the bar, Liu shares, “On one hand, I’m genuinely happy that the work I’ve been putting my heart into is being recognised. On the other, I know I still have so much room to grow. I’m fully aware that the foundation allows me to create freely comes from the bar, the team at Under Lab and the support of our guests. That’s why I cherish guest shifts abroad all the more. I want everyone, including myself, to see an even clearer picture of who I can become.”
Above Left to right: Nutchanin ‘Tug’ Isarankura, Liu, Banthita ‘Porpieng’ Yanapan and Gennaro Pucci (Photo: Zed Lee)
Left to right: Nutchanin ‘Tug’ Isarankura, Liu, Banthita ‘Porpieng’ Yanapan and Gennaro Pucci (Photo: Zed Lee)
1 / 1
During the Tatler Best Takeover Series, Liu worked alongside Gennaro Pucci, bar manager of Qura Hong Kong, as well as Nutchanin ‘Tug’ Isarankura and Banthita ‘Porpieng’ Yanapan of Messenger Service in Bangkok. Reflecting on the collaboration, Liu says, “I think even a short time in someone else’s bar can offer a glimpse into how different regions or teams work, alongside their food and drink cultures. It also highlights my own strengths and areas for growth when communicating in a new environment. Working with unfamiliar tools and spaces shows me how well I can adapt.”
Above Liu at Under Lab, Taipei (Photo: courtesy of Under Lab)
Liu at Under Lab, Taipei (Photo: courtesy of Under Lab)
1 / 1
Looking ahead, Liu hopes to build a career that remains people-focused, vibrant and open to growth. “My name ‘Green’ carries a sense of freshness and vitality. My hope is to always keep that spirit alive: to keep creating, evolving and being kind.”
Formerly a lifestyle editor, Celia is now an Associate Dining Editor at Tatler Hong Kong, where she covers local dining stories with a strong sense of narrative and cultural context. She focuses on the people, places and moments shaping the city’s food scene, bringing a storytelling-led approach to restaurant features, chef profiles and on-the-ground coverage.
