Cover Raymond Tham and the Skillet team (Photo: Skillet KL)

Skillet KL has a new look—and it sure is good

While many associate powerhouses Raymond Tham, Alex Cheah, and Kelvin Cheah with modern Malaysian restaurant Beta KL, Skillet KL was, in fact the trio’s very first brainchild. Born in 2015 in its original Cormar Suites corner lot, it began as a café, slowly evolving into the esteemed modern European dining space it is today. 

“When Alex and Kelvin first approached me to join them in opening Skillet, I had just moved from teaching to working in a chocolate company,” Tham recalls, chuckling. “I remember thinking that if the venture did not come to fruition, I would have to return to my teaching job!”

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Above The entrance of Skillet
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Above Raymond Tham

However, with Tham’s culinary expertise and creativity, alongside the Cheah brothers’ savvy business minds and humble approach, success was always on the cards. Even then, constructive customer feedback was always taken to heart, and the restaurant slowly grew a loyal following. “I still remember we had an Austrian customer that would dine in every weekend for lunch and dinner, then send me a report detailing his thoughts,” Tham smiles.

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Above The Skillet team during service

As the contemporary European restaurant approaches its ninth anniversary, a decision was made to move to a new location in Menara Hap Seng. “Skillet has become more established and deserves a new space and ambience,” the chef says. He also notes how much the dining scene has changed over the near-decade: “There are so many more restaurants, which is good as it attracts more tourism, but it also means we have to remind ourselves to constantly improve in terms of food, service, and ambience.” 

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Above Raymond Tham and sous chef Eric Lee
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Above The social room at Skillet

A modern European restaurant with a Malaysian sensibility

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Above The impressive dining space

Walking through the sleek interior of Skillet 2.0, Tham talks me through the expansion of the space, giving guests a more immersive experience. “We now have both a wine cellar and a social room where curated cocktails and bar snacks are served,” he says. Hanging on the wall is also a dried floral motif, while a basket of produce sits on the counter, depicting the different seasons reflected in the menu served. 

When it comes to its dishes, while the cooking style is predominantly European, what has changed is where produce is sourced. “We try to work with more local farmers, rather than importing ingredients, to allow our guests to experience our bountiful local produce to the fullest,” he continues. 

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Above Morels with silkie chicken, chicken garum, and radish
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Above Aged duck with broccolini and Mandarin peel jus

For instance, the fish on the current menu is ikan kurau (Indian threadfin) from Tham’s very own fishmonger. “Coming from Port Dickson, I am particular about my seafood—in fact, my mum used to buy fish from Port Dickson fishermen, freeze the fish, and send it to me!” he laughs. However, he was finally satisfied upon finding the aforementioned fishmonger: “I used to buy it for Beta, and now we have it on the menu at Skillet too.” The flaky meat pairs beautifully with salt-baked jicama, licked with the flames of charcoal.

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Above Texture of Chocolate

To pay homage to its supporters, there is also a bread course of dried longan bread with truffle butter. “When there was no dine-in during the pandemic, we came up with this bread for delivery, and to our pleasure, it was a success,” he explains. “We wanted to bring it back to show our appreciation for guests who have supported us during that period.” 

Since its inception, one dish that has never left Skillet’s menu is the Texture of Chocolate. “I wanted to create a dish that wasn’t just eaten, but that played with all the senses,” he reminisces. A sphere of chocolate is filled with smoking liquid nitrogen, broken apart with a hammer by the diner to reveal chocolate in different forms. Over the nine years, there have been countless seasonal versions—for instance, during winter, it is scented with pine to evoke festive nostalgia.

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Above Raymond Tham proudly reflects on how far the restaurant has come

While the restaurant’s identity may have evolved, it has remained a unique beacon in the dining scene. “The dishes we serve cannot be found anywhere else across the world, which is what keeps our guests, whether foreign or local, returning,” Tham says. Looking back on the past near-decade, he ends: “I have with me over 20 years in the kitchen and nine years running restaurants, and I am so grateful to have learnt so much throughout the experience.” 

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Credits

Images: Skillet KL

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Katelyn Tan
Dining and Travel Editor, Malaysia & Indonesia, Tatler Malaysia
Tatler Asia

About

Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.