Cover Melba Nunis' homestyle meal at The Datai Langkawi showcased her Kristang roots (Photo: The Datai Langkawi)
Melba Nunis' homestyle meal at The Datai Langkawi showcased her Kristang roots (Photo: The Datai Langkawi)
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The chef and award-winning cookbook author served a special menu at The Gulai House at The Datai Langkawi for three evenings
“Ever since I was a little girl, I could be found in the kitchen with my mum,” smiles Melba Nunis when I meet her in The Datai Langkawi for the first time. “Life was simple back then—we would go to the market to buy ingredients and grind all the rempah and pastes from scratch.”
The Malaysian-Kristang chef and award-winning cookbook author grew up and spent most of her childhood in Malacca. While Kristang food was, and still is, her bread and butter, she acknowledges how its blend of Portuguese, Dutch, Chinese, and Malay (to name just a few) influences are so unfamiliar to many.
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Above Kristang chef Melba Nunis
Kristang chef Melba Nunis
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“Kristang food has a lot of similarities to Malay, Chinese, Indian, and Nyonya food, due to the marriage of the Portuguese and Dutch with locals,” Nunis explains. “All these different influences make it incredibly unusual and mixed.” For three evenings, Nunis presented an exquisite menu of Kristang favourites at the beach resort, showcasing her signature dishes and the flavours she grew up around.
“I chose some dishes that would be familiar and a few lesser-known ones,” she says. “I wanted to bring a wide selection—some on the spicy side, some more tame, and a variety of condiments, so guests could really get a taste of Kristang cuisine.”
Above The selection of dishes served
Above The dinner was comprised of sharing plates
The selection of dishes served
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Of course, the beloved Kristang dish of Devil’s Curry had to make an appearance. “It is a classic in Eurasian cuisine that we enjoy during Christmas and special occasions,” Nunis says. When asked about what makes it unique, she explains how Kristang curries are all blended or ground rather than incorporating spices, powders, or pastes. “That is why you have to be familiar with the recipe to be able to adjust aspects of its flavour profile, such as spice level,” she says.
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Above Devil's Curry, a classic Kristang dish
Devil's Curry, a classic Kristang dish
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She demonstrates how to make the aforementioned curry during a cooking class held at The Gulai House, where her special menu is also being served. What strikes me is the use of vinegar, which gives the curry a piquant flavour profile.
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Crab stuffing
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Also served at the home-style dinner was Nunis’ signature crab stuffing, a sweet-savoury soy limang terung (eggplants with lime and soy sauce), and fragrant tamarind prawns. The freshness from the Langkawi seafood shone through from the prawns, crab, and a pleasantly spiced dish of chuan chuan fish (bean paste fish).
Above Salt fish pickle, sambal, and cincalok
Salt fish pickle, sambal, and cincalok
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Proudly being served by Nunis was a salt fish pickle condiment, a recipe from her mother. “It is made using ikan kurau (Indian threadfin) and can be kept for years,” she smiles as she puts it down alongside her homemade sambal and cincalok (fermented small shrimp). All three condiments marry harmoniously with the omelette and french beans.
Above Melba Nunis worked alongside The Gulai House's experienced team to execute her menu
Melba Nunis worked alongside The Gulai House's experienced team to execute her menu
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Nunis flutters from table to table with relentless energy, and her pride in Kristang cuisine is more than apparent. “Coming to The Datai Langkawi to showcase the food I love is a dream come true,” she says. “It is my life’s mission to champion Kristang cuisine, and I hope that somehow, someday, these flavours can be spread across the globe.”
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Credits
Images: The Datai Langkawi
About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
