Cover Chefs Michael Wilson, Nicolas Tam and Jia-jun Law journey to Cognac to learn about Martell’s heritage and craftsmanship (Photo: Theo Schuman)

Michael Wilson, Nicolas Tam and Jia-Jun Law journey to the heart of Cognac, France, to discover the craftsmanship behind Maison Martell and bring their experience home through exclusive creations that showcase the amber spirit’s culinary versatility

The warmth of the fire embraces us as we enter Leroi Tonnellerie, the esteemed cooperage in the heart of Cognac in France, on a chilly October morning. This is where Maison Martell sources its oak barrels, which are essential to crafting cognac. “Only fine-grain wood from 180- to 200-year‑old oak trees are used in making Martell’s barrels,” says production manager Marie Goussen, who adds that this meticulous selection ensures the spirit’s exceptional quality throughout its lengthy maturation. Inside the workshop, more than 20 artisans, both young and old, craft each barrel to the maison’s precise specifications. French oak is first cut into staves and then seasoned outdoors—washed by rain and dried by the sun—for two to three years before being carefully bent into shape and then assembled. Once put together, the coopers delicately toast the interior of each barrel over an open flame for 20 to 25 minutes, so as to allow the wood to imbue the spirit with notes of toffee, caramel and cacao during the ageing process later on.

This painstaking attention to detail, from wood selection to toasting, will ultimately shape the cognac’s complex flavour profile—a nuance keenly understood and appreciated by Michael Wilson, chef-patron of contemporary restaurant Marguerite; Nicolas Tam, founder and executive chef of modern Asian restaurant Willow; and Jia-Jun Law, chef-owner of modern Singaporean restaurant Province. Both Wilson and Tam helm one-Michelin-starred establishments, while Law, the recipient of the 2025 Tatler Best Singapore’s Rising Star award, is fast emerging as a leading name in Singaporean cuisine.

Read more: Martell honours its longstanding connection with Singapore with a limited-edition 60-year-old cognac

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Above An artisan crafting the cognac barrel according to Martell’s exact specifications
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Above Cognac barrel being toasted for 2o to 25 minutes to imbue the spirit with Martell’s desired profiles

Throughout their culinary careers—training in some of the world’s finest kitchens before opening their own restaurants in Singapore—the trio have come to understand how the amber spirit serves as a silent hero in gastronomy. As Tam, an alumnus of Joël Robuchon Restaurant, puts it: “Cognac is used in all facets of French cooking, from marinating meats to enriching sauces and finishing desserts with flair.” Law and Wilson concur. Wilson shares how it forms the base of many of his recipes, while Law reveals that he learnt to “accent dishes” with cognac during his time at the three-Michelin-starred Atelier Crenn in California.

The three chefs join Tatler on a four-day sojourn to the birthplace of cognac to delve deeper into the history and heritage of Maison Martell, the oldest of the great cognac houses, founded in 1715. This immersive experience would serve a greater purpose: to inspire their menus for Flavours of Martell, an inaugural culinary campaign launched in November that brought their Cognac journey to Singapore.

Each of the exclusive Martell-inspired tasting menus the trio crafted, available for a limited time until December 15 at their respective restaurants, showcased cognac as more than just a spirit, highlighting its versatility as a culinary ingredient, from inventive food and cocktail infusions to thoughtful pairings that elevated the overall dining experience.

In case you missed it: Maison Martell unveils the inaugural L’Or de Jean Martell featuring the iconic Château de Chanteloup

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Photo 1 of 4
Photo 2 of 4 Michael Wilson, chef-patron of Marguerite
Photo 3 of 4 Jia-Jun Law, chef-owner of Province
Photo 4 of 4 Nicolas Tam, founder and executive chef of Willow

Savour the moment

Much like an exquisite dish crafted from the finest ingredients, a Martell cognac is an assemblage of exceptional eaux de vie—the clear, distilled spirits of fermented fruit—meticulously selected and blended by generations of cellar masters. Martell’s savoir faire reveals itself in the tasting room within the house’s oldest cellar, where oak barrels line the atmospheric warehouse and the air carries the sweet, heady aroma of the “angel’s share”—the portion of spirit that evaporates during maturation. Here, cellar master Christophe Valtaud and his team of master blenders regularly nose and taste the eaux de vie destined for Martell’s exceptional cognacs.

During our visit, master blender Aldrich Dehec and tasting experiences leader Cristina Germaneau guides Wilson, Tam and Law through the meticulous blending process for the L’Or de Jean Martell. The assemblage drew on eaux de vie—some dating back to the 1880s—from the most prestigious vineyard regions: Grande Champagne (specifically the Réserve Extra and Réserve Spéciale selections) and Borderies. “The blending session is a highlight for me,” enthuses Wilson as he carefully measures each eau de vie. “Seeing how flavours evolve and transform as the layers build is fascinating.”

We savour the L’Or de Jean Martell neat, of course, to fully appreciate its rich, complex aromas of dried fruit and warm spice, and its silky palate layered with candied fruit, roasted nuts and cocoa. Throughout our stay in Cognac, we also discover the many ways Martell can be enjoyed—from the refreshing Fine à l’Eau, a blend of Martell VS, verjus and soda water served as a welcome cocktail at the Martell house, Château de Chanteloup, to a thoughtful food-and-cognac pairing at the château’s private dining room, aptly named Signature Martell par Alexandre Mazzia.

Read more: Les Fûts Uniques de Martell is the world’s first cognac cask programme ever launched

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Above Martell Epilogue, served as part of the Signature Martell par Alexandre Mazzia dining experience
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Above Martell XXO Grande Champagne, served as part of the Signature Martell par Alexandre Mazzia dining experience

Created by Valtaud and Alexandre Mazzia, Martell’s chef-partner and the creative force behind the three-Michelin-starred AM par Alexandre Mazzia in Marseille, the latter, a unique gastronomic experience aptly named Signature Martell par Alexandre Mazzia, is a highlight of our journey in Cognac. With each bite, we savour Mazzia’s signature cuisine, defined by roasted and smoked notes, layered spices and subtle heat, which finds harmony with the rich nuances of Valtaud’s exclusive blends, revealing how cognac and gastronomy share a common language.

It is through this immersive encounter that Wilson, Tam and Law translate Cognac into cuisine. Their Flavours of Martell menus distill the spirit of the journey into refined, flavour-driven expressions, offering diners a sensorial interpretation of Maison Martell’s heritage—where craftsmanship, memory and gastronomy converge.

Flavours of Martell: Marguerite

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Above Law, Tam and Wilson explore Martell’s vineyards at the Gallienne Estate

Rooted in seasonality and produce, Wilson’s cooking at Marguerite is guided by the principle of Rachel Martell, the wife of Maison Martell’s founder Jean Martell: “the best, without artifice”. For him, it means allowing the integrity of each ingredient to speak for itself—an ethos clearly expressed in the lunch and dinner tasting menus he crafted for the Flavours of Martell campaign.

Wilson’s signature pâté en croûte exemplifies this philosophy. The intricate dish, layered with pork collar, duck breast, foie gras and pistachio pâté, was enriched with Martell Cordon Bleu to impart notes of orchard fruit and spice; glazed with a savoury jelly of port wine and guinea fowl jus; then served with thoughtful accompaniments: pickled black cherry, pickled beetroot and cherry ketchup.

For the main course, he presents a dramatic smoked eel dish. The star ingredient was paired with an umami‑rich consommé made from eel bones and skin, and lifted with a splash of Martell Cordon Bleu that was added tableside.

The meal concludes with petit fours inspired by the Cognac experience itself. Wilson’s gummies, infused with Martell Chanteloup XXO, paid homage to the angel’s share. “On the first bite, you get that same fragrance and intensity that hit me when I walked into the cellar,” he explains.

In case you missed it: Find Out the Versatility of Cognac at the Perfect Pairing by Martell Dinner Series

Flavours of Martell: Willow

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Above Fine a L’eau, a refreshing cocktail served at Château de Chanteloup and an inspiration behind Tam’s palate cleanser

For Tam, the gastronomic meal by Mazzia and Valtaud “inspired me to think outside the box”. Reflecting on his time in Cognac, one memory that stands out is the Fine à l’Eau cocktail at the château. With its light, fruity and refreshing notes, he immediately recognised its potential as an ideal aperitif for Singapore’s humid climate. But instead of replicating it, he reimagines it as a palate cleanser that reinvents how Singaporeans enjoy Martell. “It’s our own kind of cocktail mixed with green tea, presented in a more elevated way.”

Beyond the palate cleanser, Tam’s Martell menu takes inspiration from how locals enjoy cognac; this concept was sparked by his exploration of the maison’s archives, where he uncovered its enduring connection to Singapore, dating back to its first shipment in 1871. Over time, cognac has become woven into the local food culture. “It has always been associated with celebrations in our culture,” says Tam, whether at reunion dinners during Chinese New Year or gatherings with family and friends over local dishes such as fish soup, where a splash of the amber spirit enriches and deepens the broth’s flavour.

Echoing the essence of the fish soup, Tam serves “a prawn noodle-style broth featuring in-season sakura ebi, finished with a mist of Martell Chanteloup XXO.” The mist, he explains, lets guests “experience the XXO through its aroma before tasting the dish itself”. The depth and maturity of the XXO “enhance the soup’s natural brininess and sweetness, lending body and complexity to what might otherwise be an understated creation”.

Don’t miss: First look: Temper, a Bauhaus-inspired wine and cocktail lounge, is Tanjong Pagar’s most anticipated gastronomic opening

Flavours of Martell: Province

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Above Martell Chanteloup XXO, displayed in one of the oldest cellars at Maison Martell

Law’s relationship with Martell has taken root long before this collaboration. He recalls his grandfather as an avid cognac drinker whose cupboard is always stocked with XO. “Whenever we prepared a rich seafood dish, he pulled out the bottle and poured a shot directly into the food. That’s how I first learnt to smell the aromas and truly taste the cognac in a dish… an appreciation I carry into my cooking today.”

But it was through the blending session with Dehec and Germaneau in Cognac that Law learnt the parallels between cognac-making and his own creative process, particularly “the way I layer seasoning and flavours as I create new dishes”.

These ideas take shape in his seven-course menu, where a variety of Martell expressions are woven throughout the dining experience. “We feature the Martell Cordon Bleu in our welcome cocktail so guests can taste the different preparations across both drinks and food,” says Law. He begins the meal with chawanmushi served with a shot or splash of cognac to provide a fuller, rounder flavour and aroma. His seafood main course, inspired by his grandfather’s tradition, features marble goby basted with oil and grilled over charcoal. “I serve it with a seafood broth inspired by my grandfather’s habit of spiking his dishes with XO,” he adds.

Drawing on what he learnt about using cognac to finish desserts with dramatic flair, Law concludes the meal with baked Alaska served with mulberries flambéed in cognac, and prepared right before the guests.

Read more: Province restaurant is chef Law Jia-Jun’s love letter to Southeast Asia

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Above The chefs during a guided tour of a cognac cellar

For Wilson, Tam and Law, the Martell collaboration is about forging meaningful connections between food, drink and culture, as each chef brings his own perspective to the table. Law hopes diners experience Province’s vision of modern Singaporean cuisine, discovering how Martell threads through and elevates the menu. Tam shares this excitement, eager for guests to see cognac not merely as a pairing but as an ingredient in its own right, with “pops of familiarity throughout the menu that connect our Asian and French cultures.”

Wilson distils it to its essence: honouring tradition and craftsmanship. “I want people to experience the care, craftsmanship and authenticity, from the food to the drink,” he says. “Every dish is about using the best ingredients and techniques without overcomplicating things. Cognac is timeless, something to be enjoyed across generations. Tasting it alongside our dishes transforms the experience and shows how food and drink can truly bring out the best in each other.”

Credits

Images: Theo Schuman for Martell

Topics

Dudi Aureus
Senior dining & travel editor, Tatler Best co-jury chair for Singapore, Tatler Singapore
Tatler Asia

Dudi Aureus is the senior dining and travel editor at Tatler Singapore, covering the city’s most exciting restaurants, global travel trends, and the personalities shaping the culinary and lifestyle scenes. She also serves as co-jury chair for the Tatler Best awards in Singapore, celebrating the very best in hospitality. When she’s off duty, she can often be found at a favourite hole-in-the-wall Thai spot, savouring a perfectly balanced pad thai.