At the launch of the L’Or de Jean Martell collection in Cognac, France, cellar master Christophe Valtaud unveils the first limited-edition expression Réserve du Château series which will continue to spotlight a new chateau every year
We step on the gravelled grounds of the 18th-century Château de Chanteloup on a chilly December evening. The historic manor of the Martell family in Cognac, France, has been at the heart of the cognac house’s deep love for the brown spirits for generations, and on this evening, 30 guests, including Tatler Singapore, travelled from around the world to pay homage to the estate’s storied history and fete the launch of the L’Or de Jean Martell Réserve du Château series.
The expression is the first release from the ultra-prestigious L’Or de Jean Martell collection, which will be launched yearly in partnership with a different French château every year to honour Martell’s art de vivre and heritage since it was founded in 1715.
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Above A glimpse into the blending process led by a team of expert blenders
Crafting the L’or de Jean Martell collection is no easy feat, as we discover from the distillery tour on the grounds of the château hosted by cellar master Christophe Valtaud. As he takes us through the cellar and the archive room—which feels like a step back in time with precious records and research findings of founder Jean Martell about the effects of wood (in crafting blends) and ageing processes—Valtaud tells us that his vision for the new collection began with the exquisite “base” blend created in 1993 by a team of expert blenders.
This blend, Valtaud shares, comprises “1,400 eaux-de-vie from the four finest terroirs in the Cognac region”, which had been patiently maturing in the casks to reach their “golden age”.

Above In the cooperage to witness the process of crafting and toasting the barrel
The relationship between the distilled spirit and its choice of casks is crucial, so we head on to the cooperage to understand the process of crafting and toasting the barrel that Martell has perfected and still uses to date. Opting for a light toast instead of a heavier one—a heavier toast will result in prominent notes of wood which might overshadow the cognac—allows the eaux-de-vies to shine more.
Typically, the maison carefully selects trees that are 180 to 200 years old for fine-grain wood. Theoretically, the rings are representative of the age of trees. As the trees grow, it simply means more rings that are compact which will give the eaux-de-vie aged within them a lighter and more delicate woody taste. But for the first edition of L’Or de Jean Martell, only 300-year-old oak wood sourced from France’s most ancient forests was used, as older oak contains more tannins that further enhance the cognac’s flavours, lending notes of vanilla, dried fruit, chutney and flowers.

Above L’Or de Jean Martell Réserve du Château Chanteloup
Only 1,000 numbered decanters of the L’Or de Jean Martell Réserve du Château Chanteloup, the first expression of the series, are available to purchase as part of the global release from January 2024 at selected luxury retailers. In collaboration with crystal maker Maison Baccarat, each drop of the precious expression is housed in an exquisite crystal decanter and carefully stored in an alluring wooden collectable box with two crystal stoppers—one for display and the other for transportation.
“When you hold a bottle of L’Or de Jean Martell Réserve du Château Chanteloup, you have in your hands a real treasure; a cognac that represents a quest for excellence spanning 300 years,” enthuses Valtaud.

Above Tasting the L’Or de Jean Martell Réserve du Château Chanteloup in the cellar

Above The L’Or de Jean Martell resting in the 300-year-old French oak barrel
A discovery of such magnitude won’t be complete without a first taste of the cognac—straight from the cask—in a cellar which seldom sees visitors. A graceful bouquet of iris, wild carnation and honeysuckle makes way for sweet and decadent aromas on the first nose. The very first sip attacks with rich layers of cherries and blackcurrants that reign supreme on the palate. What follows is an elegant hint of spice that rounds off into a velvety smooth yet lingering finish. As the cognac evolves, echoes of earth and rancio emerge, while notes of sandalwood and cedar unfurl, reminiscent of the 300-year-old French oak casks where this liquid masterpiece matures.

Above The L’Or de Jean Martell Réserve du Château Chanteloup in the flesh
Under a blanket of stars dotting the cerulean sky, we experience the versatility of the L’Or de Jean Martell Réserve du Château Chanteloup at a special gala dinner orchestrated by Alexandre Mazzia, the chef-owner of three-Michelin-starred restaurant AM par Alexandre Mazzia in Marseille, France, and Martell’s latest chef partner. The Congo-born chef tells us that his favourite part of this collaboration is the sharing of know-how between him and Valtaud. “He wants to understand my cooking and find resonance with cognac to create a truly unique experience,” shares Mazzia.

Above Artful plates to pair with the L’Or de Jean Martell Réserve du Château Chanteloup by chef Alexandre Mazzia
The result is an exclusive menu which consists of raspberry harissa married with smoked green tea duck jus to complement the oily red mullet; couscous infused with citrus and topped with horseradish and shellfish juice; and finely sliced razor clams that come layered with green apples, fennel water, and a briny seaweed condiment.

Above Cellar master Christophe Valtaud and three-Michelin-starred chef Alexandre Mazzia
“With Martell, it’s all an intellectual symbiosis,” says Mazzia, as he intends for his fine-art-like plates to act as a bridge between cognac, and highlight the distinct qualities, especially spice and citrus. “And like how my grandfather enjoyed cognac with his meals, I want to bring cognac back into French gastronomy.”
Through the country’s most prestigious châteaux, French art de vivre lives on long into the future. The new L’Or de Jean Martell Réserve du Château series is set to enhance Martell’s ultra-prestige portfolio and elevate the timeless spirit to new heights.
Credits
Photography: Martell




